I thought I had it right

[Bullitt_4202]

After washing my black 01 Bullitt GT with Gold Class, clay and wash again with Gold Class I started my process. Using a 7336, 8006 pad and 80 I went over the tops of the front fenders and hood. Two times. The swirling and scratches were removed from the fenders but light swirling remaind on the hood. Got some 83 and with a different 8006 did one pass on the hood. Some gone but still there. Another pass and the swirls are still there.

I am using enough presure on the head of the PC to where the pad is just spinning. Moving 12 to 18 inches in one direction in about 3-4 seconds which I thought would be a moderate arm speed. Going in perpendicular directions. Spending about 30 secs in one area. Keeping the polishing pad as square to the surface as possible. I apply a circle of the product around the pad spread on the surface and then start working it. I clean the pad about every third application with a cotton towel.

I don't know if this makes a difference or if I am too picky. The lighting in my garage is mostly flouresent. The only difference is over the car are halogens. Temp and humidity low. Looking at different angles the surface looks BLACK, deep and wet. The reflection shows details in the ceiling. But at a steep angle with the halogens reflecting is where I see the small swirls. Kinda slight bluring of the reflections of the lights but only on the hood and not on the fenders. (Also it makes alot of dust after awhile)

Another quesiton, in the fenders which turned out good are metal and the hood is composite (factory). Would clear be that much different to work between the two?

[RedSoxRacer]

From your post, I would say that you are most likely not working the product long enough. I have had to work # 83 for 2-3 minutes, sometimes a little longer, to get it to break down and polish out properly. If you don't work it until it is broken down completely, you risk hazing and micro-marring the paint.

[Bullitt_4202]

Wow, 2-3 minutes. After awile one pass seems to be removing it but when I go back the other way it reapplys it. I will try longer usage.

Do you get alot of dust when you use 83 and 80.

Thanks

[matt colvin]

Yes, esp. #83.

Just the nature of the product though. I also think you're just not working the product in long enough. You'll need to make at least 3 good passes, and it will almost look like the polish "flashes". Then you know you've worked it in well enough.

With patience and persistence, that Bullitt will look amazing for you. Keep !

[TH0001]

Your definetaly not working the product long enough. If it seems to be drying out, your not using enough product. To prevent dusting, clean your pad after every section.

You want to work the section using about an 2 inches a second, so to cover 18 inches would take approximately 9 seconds. Make sure you are overlapping each pass by 50 percent or more.

There are several ways to clean your pad after each section (by section I mean hood, quaterpanel, door, ect...). I use a cotton terry cloth and push it using my finger into the machine on speed 2. I turn it on, and put enough pressure to keep the pad spinning slowly. I go from in to out, making sure to absorbe enough product. I also have a pair of cargo shorts that have flapps over the side pockets. I bend the flap up and turn the machine on agains my leg to clean on the go.

If you do everything right, and still have a little marring from the 83, then its time to go to the 80, which should clean up the effects from the 83.

[LiquidBlack]

Also, your arm speed may be a little too fast, at least for how I usually work the G100 to remove swirls. Usually, I move at about 1-2 inches per second, counting til 120, then wipe and inspect.

[Bullitt_4202]

Thanks for the replies and advice. Slowed down my motion and worked a smaller area longer did the trick. Looks great. Thanks again.

[Jeepster04]

I dont mean to take over your thread Bullitt. Am I supposed to work all products in? I know I do for #83 and #80, but If im just using #7, #26 or NXT wax, do I wait for those to break down? Or just make a pass and go on?

[Jeepster04]

I found out that #7 is basically an oil, so it doesnt break down. So do I just go over it a few times then move on? Also, I read the best way to get it off is to let it skin.

How about NXT wax and #26?

[matt colvin]

First, nice to another KY person here.

Products such as #7 and any other wax/sealant should be applied, not worked in. Make at least 2 passes just to ensure uniform coverage, and then move on to the next area.

[SL1CK]

For #7, just lightly work it in, using just a little pressure. Its what Mike calls, a "beauty" product. You can go around the whole car and not wipe any off, and then come back when your done, and start wiping it off where you first applied it.

[Jeepster04]

Originally posted by matt colvin
First, nice to another KY person here.

Products such as #7 and any other wax/sealant should be applied, not worked in. Make at least 2 passes just to ensure uniform coverage, and then move on to the next area.

Thanks a bunch! Thats what I thought, I was just making sure.

Ill be going to EKU this fall. Only 20minutes from ya!!

Edit: Thanks slick! Its ok to do the entire "Jeep" before taking the wax off also, correct?

[matt colvin]

Yes, if the weather will let you do that. A nice thin coat of your wax/sealant all over a Jeep will work nicely. Just make sure to keep an eye on your work. When it passes the finger test, you can go ahead and remove the product.

[Bullitt_4202]

No prob Blue. Glad you brought it up. Once again good advice from the forum.