Most aggressive product to use with the PC

[Accumulator]

Now that #2 has been reformulated for use by hand/G-100 as well as by rotary, how would it compare to the #83? I'm assuming it still has the potent chemical cleaners but I'm wondering primarily about the abrasiveness.

[Rubber Ducky]

That's a good question Accumulator, I'm wondering the same thing as you. I've got some hard water spots that 83 is not able to remove at this point and I'm wondering if #2 would work better for that aspect. The cobwebb scratches were removed by the 80, but 83 can't seem to get the water spots out.

I've got some #2 in my shopping cart with Autodetailing Solutions, but I may not complete that order for a few days and then it won't be here until next week, so it will be awhile before I find out myself.

I have some 85 from the headlight restoration kit, and I'm tempted to try it with the PC, but I don't want to mess up the paint on my '65 Mustang to the point that it would need me to find someone with a rotorary to take out the damage done by the PC and 85, and then I'd have to do swirl removal all over after the rotorary job again I'm sure.

[inthedetails]

Isn't #2 the same animal Mike uses for his window "treatment"?

If so, will the #2 system he describes work on glass with the PC?

Mike? I know you have said it wouldn't work before, I am asking since it was reformulated. A simple yes or no so you don't have to repeat yourself is fine.

[Accumulator]

inthedetails- If I may answer for Mike, IIRC it's #4 that he uses for windshields and even for that application it's rotary-only as it just doesn't break down by PC.

Mike, hope you don't mind my answering and if I'm wrong, well, let me have it as that's what I'd deserve for stepping in

Rubber Ducky- I'd absolutely resist that temptation to use #85 via PC. Seriously- what you fear about needing somebody with a rotary to fix it is exactly what I'd predict. As with the #4, it just won't break down by PC.

And I'd even think twice about removing the water spots if they're deep etching. Remember that you only have so much paint to work with before you cause irreperable problems.

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by Rubber Ducky
That's a good question Accumulator, I'm wondering the same thing as you. I've got some hard water spots that 83 is not able to remove at this point and I'm wondering if #2 would work better for that aspect. The cobwebb scratches were removed by the 80, but 83 can't seem to get the water spots out.

If you read all the way through this thread, I think the idea I tried to get across is it is the size of the diminishing abrasives in the M04, or even M01 and even M44 or M49 that are the key to removing films off glass because it is these macroscopic diminishing abrasives that have the ability to cut into the film and thereby break it up and remove it without scratching the glass.

Lived in Oregon for most of my life, detailed cars up there for over 10 years, it rains and dries and rains and dries and rains and dries a lot in Oregon and thus there are a lot of cars with built-up water spots and gunk on the glass that a spray on glass cleaner simply will not remove.

Here's the thread, read it all the way through, some of my answers took a while to craft so that people could read the information understand it. Also look at the pictures Brian shared from his successful experience.

Glass Polishing...Deep Cleaning


As for restoring the old Mustang paint... go with M80. Rich in polishing oils, only mildly aggressive, long play time, bubba-proof... results like these...

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by Accumulator

Mike, hope you don't mind my answering and if I'm wrong, well, let me have it as that's what I'd deserve for stepping in

Don't mind at all. You and I have been talking back and forth for years on the Internet and I've read many of your posts on multiple forums and you have a great reputation and your posts reflect, (no pun intended), quality information backed up by experience.

Post on!

[inthedetails]

Thanks for the info....

[Rubber Ducky]

Thanks for all the info Accumulator and Mike.

I should clarify that the Mustang was repainted with 2-stage about 9 years ago at a Ford dealership and it's really in great shape. It looked perfect to 99% of normal car show cruisers before I did the 83 on speed 5 to remove the previous owners cobwebbing to the hood, roof, and trunk. I followed that up with #66 across the whole car at speed 5 as well as I didn't have much swirling after I did several passes of 83 in attempt to get the water spotting out.

To reach near perfection I'd still like to remove the water spotting on the horizontals that is only visible at the perfect angles under direct sunlight. They're like finding a needle in a haystack using the Brinkman dual Zenon, so they are tough to see. I don't think my Kodak 5 megapixel can pick them up. I'll QD it tomorrow and shoot some pics to see if it can capture and then ya'll can tell me if I'm crazy and don't know when to call it DONE!

Thanks,

Mark

[Accumulator]

Mike- Thanks for the vote of confidence. Glad I'd remembered correctly Re the #4 for windshields.

rubber ducky- your last post convinces me more than ever that you oughta leave well enough alone with regard to the etching. Besides the specific issues related to that kind of problem, when you describe what you have to go through to see it I think it's something you oughta just live with.

Lest you think I'm not particular, I have a few vehicles that I try to keep *perfect* and I spend literally as much time inspecting as I do correcting. And it's silly and a waste of time and thank goodness I have thick clear that I *know* the history/thickness of so I can safely do what it needs. My other vehicles are far from perfect and that's a conscious decision based on practical reasons.

A nine-yo repaint by a dealership is not something I'd try to get perfect unless you're willing to end up repainting it. Don't mean that as a put-down, just an honest observation.

[kungfoojesus]

I had the same problem with water etchings. Don't go crazy on them. If anything get a professional detailer to get them out with depth gauges and other fancy tools. On the bright side, if you screw up like I did you can go two tone!