#80 to #7 still not perfect

[Chris W]

So I started with #80 on the DA with a #8006 pad.

This is before



This is with #80 and then I went to #7, and it came out like this....



It looks better from 2 feet away. All the big stuff was gone, but when you get really close to it looks all most cloudy. What am I missing?

[Pete-FWA]

Chris, how long did you work the M80?

This appears to be marks left by not working the polish thoroughly.

[Chris W]

On a 2x1 square, about 2min maybe. It was a cold today, maybe I needed to go a little longer and break it down more?

[Pete-FWA]

Let me ask another way---when did you decide it was time to stop running the machine and start wiping?

Ideally, it's time to wipe after the product is completely broken down and has left a nearly clear, slightly oily film on the paint.

The cold could be a factor. You may have had enough, dare I say too much, product on the pad and paint surface that you had to work it longer. 2 minutes is good, but I would guess it needed more time.

[Tom Weed]

I have had similar results recently as I was detailing one of the neighbors cars, a white Buick LeSabre and it was in decent shape. After claying I went to work with 80 on the PC and yellow polishing pad. I noticed that same result, I even worked it for quite a while and then removed it and it had that hazy look.. First time I have seen that using 80 as I have had great luck in the past with it on my black vehicle. To fix what I did, I broke out #82 and went over the area again and it was back to a nice gloss and shine.

Tom

[Chris W]

I think I will try the #80 agian and work it in longer. Thanks for the help.

[Paramedic]

Try buffing until it is almost gone, you can see a LIGHT film left. This is my results with #80, I did try #7 on the nose and did not notice a difference.

[Accumulator]

One of the ways I gauge the breakdown of #80 is to look for a color change. When it goes from the green/brown opaque to more of a clear transparent, then it's fully broken down. I never did hear back at to whether you really *need* to work it that long, but it works well for me even if it is ovekill. Just stop before you get it too dry. By examining the color of the residue on your buffing cloth, you can see if you're getting it close to the clear/transparent state.

Some rare paints are just too soft for the initial bite of #80 (only had it happen once myself but I've heard about it a bit recently from others). In those cases, yeah, the #82 or #9 is a good way to go. I wouldn't switch to the #7 until all the marring is acceptable to you.

[sneek]

Originally posted by Paramedic
Try buffing until it is almost gone, you can see a LIGHT film left. This is my results with #80, I did try #7 on the nose and did not notice a difference.

your ride beats the heck out of mine lol

[Paramedic]

Originally posted by sneek
your ride beats the heck out of mine lol

haha. You too can have one for the nice price of $7,000,000.00. We have 3 of them!! But you do not want one! Maintenance is expensive and cleaning is NOT fun! Too time consuming to detail. The rivits are not fun to clean the polish and wax from around them. Before I hired into the company as the director of air division they used turtle wax and zymol. You should have seen all the wax around the rivits, it was horrible looking, one thing about Meguiars waxes and the g100 its easier to clean around them.

[Chris W]

I got back on it today. I got rid of the small stuff I had before with #82 and making sure it was well worked in, but now it looks like this...



Before, this looked better...



I am guessing it's a problem with the paint, any ideas.....

[Chris W]

I just looked at it agian and they are little dips in the clear? I think I am going to hit the car with #80 and call it good.

[Accumulator]

Yeah, it looks like that to me too. I'd see how it looks with a LSP applied. At least the scratches appear to be gone, now it just looks like you're lacking a little surface clarity, and sometimes the LSP helps clear that up (e.g., if it's just left over trade secret oils from the #82 or something like that).

[74 thing]

No more swirls-is that paint metallic-if so the dots might be metal flake reflecting off the light.

[Chris W]

It's not metallic. I paln on using NXT over the top of the #82, and will get some pics up after it's done. I think the decklid is the only spot on the car that is going to do that, well I hope.