Scratch removal with PC?

[3JBS]

Can anyone suggest a method to remove a scratch from black paint that you can see but you cannot feel with your finger or nail. Scratch caused by purse on hood of 2005 Lexus GX470. Have tried ScratchX, swirl Remover, Body Scrub - nothing removes it. Was told cannot use 7006 pad on PC, only 8006 and 9006 pads.

[Murr1525]

Just to be sure, before using ScratchX, did you read the article:

How to remove a defect by hand with ScratchX

You are correct, that a 7006 pad should not be used on paint with a PC.

#80 + 8006 pad is a mild cleaner, which if you have a PC would be the place to start. #83 + 8006 pad is a stonger cleaner, and should be able to improve it if the 80 cannot.

[3JBS]

I used the ScratchX by hand on a pad and repeated with the PC. I did not repeat by hand or apply three times. I'll try that before buying some Speed Glaze. Thanks.

Now on to filling the rock chip.

[Murr1525]

Yes, it definately needs worked in very well, and applied more than once. A bit of terry cloth can also help, since it has a bit more bite than a smooth applicator.

[Mike Phillips]

Hi 3JBS

Welcome to Meguiar's Online!


In the last 2.5 years of teaching the detailing classes here at Meguiar's Corporate Office, there are two comments I hear all the time when we move from the classroom to the Garage and we demonstrate ScratchX and the G100 Dual Action Polisher.

"Oh... now I know what I'm doing wrong"


The above comment is usually made when I show how to apply ScratchX by hand and when I show how to use the dual action polisher to remove swirls and scratches.

It really comes down to technique, or in other words,

• * How you use and move your hand
  * How you use and move the polisher

Both ScratchX by hand and the dual action polisher used with the W-8006 foam polishing pad work and can be used to fix about 90% of most peoples problems if they use them correctly.

ScratchX is not a Wipe on, wipe off product. you must work it against the finish and in most cases apply it multiple times. This is because most clear coats tend to be harder than traditional single stage paints, not softer. Thus remove small particles of paint surround a scratch is more difficult.

I can't tell you how many people I've met that later in the class will tell me they simply applied the ScratchX and then wiped it off assuming the scratch would then be gone.

If this were to be how a scratch remove worked, we could also call it paint remove because it would mean the product was in essence dissolving the paint around a scratch in order to remove it. Of course if this is how a product worked, it wouldn't work at all because it would remove too much paint.

ScratchX must be worked using the right technique against the finish in order to effectively force the microscopic diminishing abrasive into the finish where they take little bites out of the paint. then they break down and polish out. Thus often times because this is a very gentle and safe paint cleaner, you must apply multiple applications before your eyes will see a difference.

Of course how hard your paint is and how deep the scratch is will also be very important factors as to how hard the scratch is to remove.

As for the machine, most people move the machine to quickly over the surface. Try to work on too large of an area at one time, and don't push on the head of the polisher hard enough.

What it Means to Remove a Scratch



In order to remove a scratch out of anything, metal, plastic glass, paint, etc. You must remove material around the scratch until the surface is level or equal to the lowest depths of the scratch or scratches.

The below diagram if for paint, the the same thing applies to just about an surface material or coating.



In essences, you don't really remove a scratch, you remove material around a scratch.

Then the big question is, is the material or coating workable, as in can you abrade small particles of it and leave behind an original looking surface. For example, some things you can abrade, (remove the scratch), but you can never completely remove all of your abrading marks, thus you can't really fix the problem, all you can do is exchange one set of scratches of a different set of scratches.

The next questions is, how thick is the surface material you're working on or the coating. You are limited to what you can do by the thickness of these to things, (surface coating or surface material), and whether or not this surface is workable.

Sometimes you don't know what you can so until you try. It's always a good idea to test your choice of products, applicator materials and application process, (By hand or by machine), to an inconspicuous area. If you cannot make a small area look good with your product, applicator and process, you will not be able to make the entire surface look good. It's always a good idea to test first and error on the side of caution, versus make a mistake you cannot undo.