New to the G-100

[Chris W]

I just got my G-100 a couple of days ago and soon as we get some nice weather I would like to see if I can improve on what I have.
The red picture is from my 04 Dakota truck and the other is from my 65 VW bug. I am wondering what I should start out with for removing the scratches.

Wash (Gold Class)
Clay as needed
80, 82, 83 with the G-100 on a 8006?????
#7 Pure polish G-100 on a 8006
NTX two coats with G-1000 on a 8009


I tried some #80 on the hood of the truck and after about 3 passes it showed some improvement, but I would like better, it did about the same on the car. Would #83 remove the deeper scratches that I could not get with #80 and should I then step down to #80?

[gb387]

Congrats on the new toy! You will like it, have you seen the post below, very informative talka about #80/#83 and so on...

Using the G-100 to remove swirls with the Professional Line


Here is a good chart to keep handy: Product, Pad and Speed settings for the Porter Cable Dual Action Polisher

[gb387]

One more thing.... Meguiars suggests starting out the the least aggressive product to get the job done. So... If your #80 isn't quite getting the job done step up to #83. You have a very good selection of products to start with and will get very good results.

[Chris W]

So after using #83 should I go to #80 or can I go straight to #7.

When working #80 on a large area such as the hood I was working in a 2ft by 2ft area. When done with that area sould I wipe it clean or can I do the whole area and then wipe all at the same time. And does any one have any hints for working on a car like a bug, no one flat panal on the whole car.

[tguil]

The finish on the Dakota appears to be in pretty bad shape. I would use Mequire's SOFTBUFF™ Cutting Pad W7006 and #83. Mike and others might say that this is too aggressive, but I have had very good results from using this combination on the "tough stuff". I have not had a problem with hazing. I would then follow up with #80 and the W8006 pad. I rarely use the W9006 pad. I even apply NXT Tech Wax with a W8006 pad just to get a little more cleaning action from the NXT.

I might be a little more cautious with the bug because of its age and its single stage paint. If it were a "beater", I'd use the same procedure that I would use with the Dakota.

I don't work for Mequiar's so I can throw caution to the wind.

Tom

[Chris W]

Thanks for the info, the bug is not single stage it has clear. It's a 5 year old paint job, just needs a good detail. The truck is not to bad, like I said above #80 got most of it after a couple of times over it. I think I will give some #83 on a 8006 a try.

[gb387]

Originally posted by Chris W
When working #80 on a large area such as the hood I was working in a 2ft by 2ft area. When done with that area sould I wipe it clean or can I do the whole area and then wipe all at the same time. And does any one have any hints for working on a car like a bug, no one flat panal on the whole car.

You want to remove the #80 in the 2 x 2 area before moving on to the other part of the hood... if you let it sit to long it may be hard to remove, the product is not intended to dry prior to removal.

As for moving straight to #7, after #83 I am not 100% sure but I think you can just move on to #7. I have not used #83 yet.

[OctaneGuy]

#80 and #7 are similar in that they both contain similar polishing oils-except #80 also has diminishing abrasives. I'd agree, that you could go directly from #83 to #7, however he could also just use more passes of #80 and then put a wax over that and skip#7 altogether.

However if I were you and really wanted to get the best possible finish (not to mention have the time), I'd work in #83 with a W8006 (yellow pad), then use #80 which has finer diminishing abrasives also with a W8006 pad, then #21 or NXT Tech wax with a W9006 polishing pad.

Just my preference.

Richard

Originally posted by gb387
You want to remove the #80 in the 2 x 2 area before moving on to the other part of the hood... if you let it sit to long it may be hard to remove, the product is not intended to dry prior to removal.

As for moving straight to #7, after #83 I am not 100% sure but I think you can just move on to #7. I have not used #83 yet.

[gb387]

Originally posted by OctaneGuy
However if I were you and really wanted to get the best possible finish (not to mention have the time), I'd work in #83 with a W8006 (yellow pad), then use #80 which has finer diminishing abrasives also with a W8006 pad, then #21 or NXT Tech wax with a W9006 polishing pad.

Just my preference.

Richard

Makes sense, sounds like a good process!

[Five Star]

I just use the rotary for most of the flat surface and the d/a for the bumpers.

I can never get good results using the d/a polisher alone