• If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

How much to charge to detail Police Cars

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    I'd hit the paint with a G-100/#66 combo only.......Maybe a little NXT on horizontal areas too.
    r. b.

    Comment


    • #17
      Is the #66 OK for use over graphics, esp. the adhesive film types? I'd worry that it would have a little too much cut (never mind the #83!). Once you compromise the top level of those things (the reflective coating) you have problems.
      Practical Perfectionist

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by Accumulator
        Is the #66 OK for use over graphics, esp. the adhesive film types? I'd worry that it would have a little too much cut (never mind the #83!). Once you compromise the top level of those things (the reflective coating) you have problems.
        I honestly don't know but to be on the safe side, stick with something a lot less aggressive. Perhaps Meguiar's A12 Cleaner/Wax, or even NXT
        Mike Phillips
        760-515-0444
        showcargarage@gmail.com

        "Find something you like and use it often"

        Comment


        • #19
          I think we're both of the "better safe than sorry" mindset when it comes to this one. Having to replace the decals on a fleet of cars wouldn't be good for business

          Not like you can really (mechanically) remove marring from such films anyhow...
          Practical Perfectionist

          Comment


          • #20
            I've used #83 and #80 on plastic decals with good results. They did not correct all the marring, but the decals were much improved afterwards.
            Mr. Miyagi says: "Wax on, wax off"

            Comment


            • #21
              I was recommending #66 for exposed painted surfaces (just like #80, #83, etc). The idea is to avoid a multi step process when you actually need the cutting power to remove defects. The process has to be fast and efficient. We're talking about cop cars here. It's about being clean, professional, maintained and maximally available, all on the taxpayer's dime.

              If you don't need to remove any swirls/etching/stains or a cutting cleaner isn't suitable for film graphics you can always use a pure wax/sealant like #21 on the paint and do whatever is appropriate for the graphics.

              There will be defects to remove. Nobody's going to check if a suspect's shirt is microfiber or 100% cotton terry cloth before pressing him down on the hood and cuffing him. "211 in progress where? No way dispatch! We can't respond to that 10-20, the sprinklers are running and we'll get all water spotted!"


              PC.

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by the other pc
                There will be defects to remove. Nobody's going to check if a suspect's shirt is microfiber or 100% cotton terry cloth before pressing him down on the hood and cuffing him. "211 in progress where? No way dispatch! We can't respond to that 10-20, the sprinklers are running and we'll get all water spotted!"

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by black240sx
                  I've used #83 and #80 on plastic decals with good results...
                  OK, that's good to know. I'm possibly over-cautious as I've seen decals with compromised reflectivity from what I assumed was abrasive polishing.
                  Practical Perfectionist

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Re: Re: How much to charge to detail Police Cars

                    Originally posted by Rollman
                    How about some Get out of Jail Free cards ? Maybe 2 per vehilce . Those thing would be priceless on the open market
                    Something like this,



                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by the other pc
                      There will be defects to remove. Nobody's going to check if a suspect's shirt is microfiber or 100% cotton terry cloth before pressing him down on the hood and cuffing him. "211 in progress where? No way dispatch! We can't respond to that 10-20, the sprinklers are running and we'll get all water spotted!"


                      PC.
                      r. b.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        You need to probably do a very quick turn around.

                        How about a vacuum, then a Quik Interrior Detail to avoid leaving glossy dressings over everything. Remove any carpet spots, hit the inside quickly with the odor remover for good measure.

                        Do the Wash and clean the tires with Hot-Rims All-Wheel-Cleaner, use Nxt Tire Cleaner too.

                        Now, you need to decide if it needs to be clayed. If so, do it.

                        After claying, if possible avoid cleaning and polishing as it takes a lot of time and the car should not be out of use long, nor does the agency want to pay for hours of cleaning and polishing.

                        At thihs point how about jumping directly to waxing with something that protects for a long time, or if the paint is pretty bad use a cleaner wax or ColorX. Finally, finish up by cleaning the windows with Nxt Glass Cleaner.



                        I would avoid:
                        Armor-All
                        Rain-X


                        Possibly avoid:
                        Insane Shine (without checking if dressing is okay)


                        As long as the car is clean and smells good inside, and the outside looks great except under direct sunlight, you have probably done what is expected. Talk to the agency first though. Make sure they know about swirls and ask if it is important to buff them out. let them know it takes hours longer to buff them out and the effect is only noticable in near direct sunlight.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          thank you all

                          thank you all! this forum is great! you all gave me great ideas, we just started telling area depts about the detailing and it has taken off. Randy

                          Comment

                          Your Privacy Choices
                          Working...
                          X