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Question On Time!!!

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  • Question On Time!!!

    Hello every one! Hopefully every one is doing well. I have a question about time. How long should it take to wet sand (from 1500-3000), buff, polish and wax a 65 mustang coupe rag top? The paint is fully cured not recently painted. What's a fast time, an average time and a slow time to do this job? What procedures would be used for a fast good job, or for an excellent time taking job? I know how to do this work but I want to know the time from the pros, besides I'm curious on knowing the real time it should take not some body shop owner thinks it should take. Thanks for the time and you guys have good day.

  • #2
    Re: Question On Time!!!

    I recently colorsanded, buffed, polished a light green base coat/clear coat 67 or 68 Mustang california special in nine hours.

    I got lucky on that one as the clear was pretty easy to work with.
    Freedom prospers when Christianity is vibrant and the rule of law under God is acknowledged

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    • #3
      Re: Question On Time!!!

      The time it will take you to complete a colorsand and polish job will be determined by the size of the vehicle, color of the paint, type of paint, defects needed to be corrected, desired results, and your knowledge and experience.

      For example a light color, base coat/clear coat laid down by a good painter with min. amount of debris, orange peel, runs or similar in the finish will be easier (quicker) to rub out than a dark color with allot of defects.

      Now to the Mustang in question, seeing how you do not have a top to do, figure 7-8 hours quick, 10-12 medium speed and 15-20 slow.
      Freedom prospers when Christianity is vibrant and the rule of law under God is acknowledged

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      • #4
        Re: Question On Time!!!

        Joe covered your questions really well and he's very experienced and a graduate of our NXT ti class, (twice, this one and this one), although if you really wanted to invest the time into the process you could spend a lot more time sanding and buffing and then examining your work under multiple strong light conditions to insure all of your sanding marks have been removed.

        A couple of questions...
        • Have you ever used a rotary buffer to buff out an entire car using a multiple step process, as in A) Cut with a compound, B) Machine clean with a cleaner/polish, C) Finish polish with a lighter cleaner/polish, D) Re-polish each panel with a dual action polisher (G100/PC)?

        (That's a long, long day of work if you start early, finish late and don't take any breaks)
        • Have you ever wet-sanded down an entire car before
        • Has the car already been painted
        • If the car has already been painted, how old is the paint
        • How many coats of clear did the painter spray
        • Was the painter aware that either you or he were going to be wet-sanding, cutting and polishing the paint?
        Mike Phillips
        760-515-0444
        showcargarage@gmail.com

        "Find something you like and use it often"

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        • #5
          Re: Question On Time!!!

          Thanks guys for answering my question. I appreciate all the tips and advice you give me. I attended the Meguiar's Arizona clinic with Mike Pennington/Auto detail solutions and have your video on using the g-100 and Mike Pennington’s how to VHS. What’s a California special? I have never used multiple strong lights before, how does that work? I have buffed out a few cars completely with the rotary (Dewalt) before. I try to resemble a multiple process like you are talking about to buff out a vehicle, but I don’t know and haven’t figured out a fast process, good job, or a show winning combination yet. Like I mentioned I attended the AZ clinic and own some videos and I know the good techniques you and Mike Pennington teach but I’m still in the dark when it comes to deciphering time and different process. In this case this Mustang is a factory blue green metallic pretty dark and it was in horrible conditions there was major orange peel not to mention un countable urethane waves, therefore there was absolutely no reflection in the clear. There was a bunch of dry spots all over the vehicle and I do not know how many coats of clear were applied. The car was painted 4-6 years ago and I don’t think the painter cared if it was getting wet sanded or not as long as he got paid. I wet sanded the entire car with 1500 on foam pad hoping I did not burn, and then I followed with 2000 with pad, then 3000 with DA. I kept the water clean and used a bottle to pour the water. Then I buffed with diamond cut with W-4000, then followed with #82 with W-8000 on G-100, followed by medallion wax with W-9000 on G-100. I washed the entire car between compounds and made sure pad was clean. I don’t know if this is a good way to do it, but that’s what they had and I usually do it like that. Is there a better faster method to accomplish this? What process should I do to do an outstanding show quality finish? Or should I stick to your video on how to? Thanks again for your time and help I really appreciate it. You guys have a good day.

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