Is this an old way of applying a wax with a rotary?

[gb387]

Ok... Help me out here... I have used a rotary here and there and on projects that really didn't matter all that much never on a vehicles finish and by no means do I know how to properly run one, I have an idea but that's about it. I will eventually pick up an rotary to try on a junk yard panel.

I know someone who swears that you apply a wax by hand then buff off with a rotary once the wax has dried. Now is this an "old school" way, the "correct way", or "what in the world"! I have tried to say "if it were me I would apply wax with the buffer then remove by hand", I don't want to make him mad/not have the proper knowledge to explain this... so I tread lightly. I have seen him do it, mostly on gel coat surfaces.

I need a little ammo to help better explain why you apply the wax with a rotary then remove by hand.

[Pete-FWA]

Gel coat can take much tougher love than the average automobile paint finish. Often times, the people working with gel coat use the rotary for everything for just that reason.

Using a rotary to put on wax isn't a technique I use because, just by its nature, usually puts holograms on the finish. I experimented with LSPs with a rotary and W9000 pads many years ago. I ended up using much more LSP since it soaked in the pad and the results were not as good.

The only exception our shop made was for "production" jobs that paid us for nothing other than #66 or #80 applications. We fully expected and guaranteed polisher marks, but those dealer customers understood and accepted. I usually didn't want to look at such a job when it was completed because I KNEW I would see the holograms.

Removing wax with a rotary seems worse to me. It's the same argument against dry polishing: once the LSP is removed, it's bare pad against bare paint surface. This is sure to only leave holograms from the contact.

Yes, using the rotary for either of these processes could well be faster than doing it by DA, orbital, or by hand, but the results are more important than just going fast. If it's simple ease of application and speed, one could consider the rotary for LSP application. If not, I advise against it.

[black240sx]

If you are talking about pure waxes, there is no particular reason to use a rotary polisher. Waxes go on and buff off easily enough that doing it by hand is not a problem.

Are you talking about cleaner waxes, which contain abrasives? Those need to be worked vigorously to make the abrasives do their job. My understanding is that it is best to do the polishing wet so there is some lubrication.

I had one guy explain his technique: spread swirl remover around, dry with hairdryer, buff off with rotary. But I think that is not a good way to do it.

[gb387]

Ok... so in most cases you want to apply a LSP(like a pure wax) with a PC or similar or by hand. You would typically not apply a LSP with a rotary or remove it dry.

I agree... removing a dry way with a rotary can not be good. Seems if there is no lubrication it could damage the finish.

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by gb387
Ok... so in most cases you want to apply a LSP (like a pure wax) with a PC or similar or by hand.

Yes.

Originally posted by gb387
You would typically not apply a LSP with a rotary or remove it dry.

If you care about a quality job then you would never apply or remove an LSP with a rotary buffer. Or as Pete summed up so well here...

Originally posted by Pete-FWA

The only exception our shop made was for "production" jobs that paid us for nothing other than #66 or #80 applications. We fully expected and guaranteed polisher marks, but those dealer customers understood and accepted. I usually didn't want to look at such a job when it was completed because I KNEW I would see the holograms.

[gb387]

This helps out alot... answers my question. Thanks for the replys!

[the other pc]

Originally posted by black240sx
...I had one guy explain his technique: spread swirl remover around, dry with hairdryer, buff off with rotary. ....