Help! need to restore 41yr old paint

[Restoremy64]

Hello all,
This is a great informative forum, yet I'm still seeking advice on how to restore my '64 Vette paint and interior. I've followed 'Car Crazy' and would like to do everything through Meguiars. Having 1 manufacturer system should help as well.

Here's what I'm thinking:
-Buy one of the 'kits' with the orbital polisher, add #83 DACP to get out the scratches (right?), and work my way up to a fine wax. I've studied the forum and as strongly suggested (!) posted pictures. Please help! I'd be thrilled to post before and after pictures.



The car was stored here for 12 years and accumulated, dust, scratches, and a very 'dull' attitude. You can see the back and hood are in bad shape. Both are dull, and the back has lot's of scratches.


Here's a good shot of the car after moving AND a good bath. Anything shiny is just fooling you!:


Here's the hood, the stuff on the fender is some kind of glue. it's dry and will 'flake' off:


Both sides have some shine left, although there are fine scratches:


The vinyl interior is all here, just needs a good cleaning and protectant for the seats, armrest, door panels, dash, and carpet.
[IMG]http://archive.meguiarsonline.com[IMG]http://archive.meguiarsonline.com

Thanks! Hoping those pro's out there can give me some direct advice.
Sincerely,
Paul

[Superior Shine]

OK I am drooling! (I bet Mike Phillips is also!) Not because it is a vette BUT it is a FADED vette that needs some polishing!!

I would love to se a rotory shine it but it sounds like you have a pretty good plan.

#83 would be the most aggrisive product I would use with a PC. If it is laquer paint I would use the w7006 pad. Your going to pull allot of color off that car so buy a few pads to swap out with.

Follow that with maybe #80 then #7 by hand. Top it with NXT.

[LiquidBlack]

Interior looks like its going to be more work than the exterior. Center console is looking rough.

[Murr1525]

Mike has mentioned in the past that working in a good coat of a polish like #7 can be a good first step. Esp since it is your car, and you can take your time, it might be a good idea.

You may want to use #7, then a good claying, and then onto #83, etc that Joe mentioned.

As far as the interior, I see a fair bit of time with a mild mix of APC, and some Nxt Tech Protectant.

[Accumulator]

Originally posted by Murr1525
Mike has mentioned in the past that working in a good coat of a polish like #7 can be a good first step. Esp since it is your car, and you can take your time, it might be a good idea..

Yeah, that's what I was thinking too. Pretreating with #7 works well on paints like that. But I'd probably clay this car *before* the pretreating as it appears to have more contaminations issues than it does oxidation issues. But I'd have plenty of clay on hand in case it loads up quickly.

If it were mine, I wouldn't be too eager to use #83 on it and I wouldn't use a cutting/7006 pad on it with a PC/G-100. I'd see how nice I could get it with #80 (maybe multiple applications) and a 8006. Then maybe another pass with #80 or #9 using a 9006, followed by more #7. I'd rather have imperfect but original paint than risk taking off too much. And some of those contour lines probably have thin paint on them as it is.

Note that I'm advocating a more conservative approach than some of the previous posts. Just leaning towards "better safe than sorry" as I have a real thing for cars with original paint and I'm trying to think long-term.

[Restoremy64]

THANKS for the advice!!!

Wow, thanks for the solid input. Due to work and kiddo's this is the soonest I could respond. Based on the replies I've come up with a plan that consolidates everyone's input. I've also seen the thread for 'what speeds for what pads' and I'll follow those instructions. I'll probably get one of the Meguiar 'Kits' as I like the lifetime warranty on the polisher.

Bringing the paint back:
(Step / Activity)
1 / 'Clay' the car (although I'm concerned the car is to 'dry'?)
2 / #7 pre-treat by hand
3 / Polisher with #80 and 8006 pad
4 / Polisher with #80 and 9006 pad
5 / #7 by hand
6 / Finish with NXT
note: I'll buy some #83 to use only for the heaviest scratch areas like the back.

Interior:
1 / Looks like a mix of APC (what's that?) to clean
2 / NXT Tech Protectant

If anyone knows where I can buy the polisher and supplies locally much appreciated. Thanks again for your help. Any additional input is appreciated.
Paul

[Murr1525]

APC = All Purpose Cleaner. It is in the Detailer Line of products. It is kind of like a Simple Green, do it all sort of product, but safer for surfaces, esp aluminum. Using a 10:1 ratio or so should be good for the dirty vinyl. Perhaps using a soft toothbrush to agitate the cracks and crevices.

I would recomend using #7 before claying. The actioin of rubbing it in will clean the surface a bit more, plus try and get it a bit more workable. I belive Mike had put on a heavy coat of polish at night, then actualy buffed it off in the morning, giving it time to sit.

The rest seems like a good plan.

[Pete-FWA]

I concur with Murr on the #7 before clay. This is something I learned on this forum recently and it makes dry old paint much more workable. I used to rely on the polishing oils from compound to soak in, but #7 seems to be easier to work.

Also Joe mentioned, I like the idea of #83 and a W7006 if it's lacquer. Good plan--old lacquer likes a polisher to get rough with it--that DA you plan to use isn't as aggressive as I'd like to see, either. I know a rotary and some more stout compound would bring it up much faster, but your method is safer.

Don't worry about the W7006 on lacquer. It needs tougher love than would newer base/clear finishes. This is NOT a method for those newer, more sensitive finishes, only in the rough condition lacquer that we're guessing you have.

Whatever you do, best of luck!

[Accumulator]

I heartily endorse leaving the #7 on the paint overnight, that worked great for me. I applied it sorta thick in case it soaked into the paint in places, which it did. You might use (very soft, 100% cotton) terry to wipe it off the next moring. Any marring will be taken care of by the subsequent polishing anyhow and the terry will help a) absorb the #7, and b) clean the paint more than MF.

[Mark2]

That's a very nice project you have there
It's not that bad, no rust or at least I can't see any. But you're in the south so I guess you don't have that problem over there
Best of luck to you, I hope we will see some more pics of that Vette.

[Mike Phillips]

Hi Paul,

I saw your registration come through the Admin Panel and was real curios when I read your forum name as to what you we're working on....

Now I see!


I try to take Sunday's off so I didn't reply when you posted this but it looks like you've already received an accumulated collection of some great advice.

Meguiar's always teaches the philosophy of,

"Aways use the least aggressive product to get the job done"

In keeping with this philosophy, I would like to temper the advice to use our W-7006 foam cutting pad with M83 on your Corvette's finish as I think you might get into trouble on any high points/body-lines or edges.

It would be faster for sure for removing the dead, oxidized paint, but you may run the risk of burning through the paint. You definitely want to go a little slower for the cleaning step to avoid this.

[Setec Astronomy]

Originally posted by Mark2
That's a very nice project you have there
It's not that bad, no rust or at least I can't see any. But you're in the south so I guess you don't have that problem over there

Hi Mark! Those Corvettes don't usually have any body rust since they are fiberglass! Chassis can corrode, tho.

[Mark2]

Ok, now I feel stupid I didn't know they were fiberglass back in the 60s. Why don't they make more cars of fiberglass, seems like a good idea?

[Teak]

I have never worked on an car as old as your Vette, but it certainly seems like you have recieved good advice. As to cleaning the interior I would use #40 as #40 is cleaner and conditioner for vinyl and rubber. Multiple application may be need for the dirtier parts or even the use of a very very soft brush on the dirtier parts, but only if absolutly necessary. Another option for cleaing the interior would be to use Quik Interior detailer followed by #40. Be gentle and preserve the originality of the Vette.

Eric

[RedSoxRacer]

Using nothing but Meguiars products, I turned my 62 from this when I bought it...



...To this...




As you can see, the original paint was severly oxidized and almost an orange color, but about 16 hours later, with the help of some # 83, 82, 7 and NXt wax, it came out pretty nice!!