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  • Anyone Please

    Just got new PC buffer and want to use it on my black F150 and Acura TSX they are both new and black in color, they both have light swirls only seen in sunlight. Any tips on what to get and how to apply them, I have used DACP by hand with not that much of a result, hoping the PC will do the job.

    What do you guys think?

  • #2
    Re: Anyone Please

    Originally posted by 04KevinJ
    Just got new PC buffer and want to use it on my black F150 and Acura TSX they are both new and black in color, they both have light swirls only seen in sunlight. Any tips on what to get and how to apply them, I have used DACP by hand with not that much of a result, hoping the PC will do the job.

    What do you guys think?
    Hi Kevin...Welcome to MOL!

    DACP works much better with a buffer, than by hand IMO. I would use a W-8006 polishing pad on the 5 setting to work in the product on a section at a time until almost dry.

    If necessary, you could try #82 with a different polishing pad as a follow up before applying a wax...Use the same speed, just don't buff quite as long.

    (Be sure to apply a big "X" of product to your pads)

    Wipe off buffing residue with a clean terry towel, or microfiber.
    Last edited by rusty bumper; Apr 27, 2004, 04:39 PM.
    r. b.

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    • #3
      Check out my Ford Lightning in my signature area, with a little time and work black can look great. I had some luck with #9 2.0 and my PC, I really want to give DACP a try, I hope the MOL pachage includes some.

      Well that didn't help answer your question at all! So.... Welcome to MOL!
      Brandon

      2007 Black Chevy Avalanche

      My Albums: Avalanche
      Meguiars Online Acronyms - Meguiars Product List....

      Comment


      • #4
        Do I work all of the products until they are almost gone or what, do any of you use the PC with NXT?

        Comment


        • #5
          Hi Kevin,

          I answered something like this just recently in another post...

          Let me see if I can find it so I don't have to re-type it.

          Mike
          Mike Phillips
          760-515-0444
          showcargarage@gmail.com

          "Find something you like and use it often"

          Comment


          • #6
            Here's part of it,

            One of the best, easiest and foolproof ways of tackling this problem will be to use the Porter Cable Dual Action polisher with some Meguiar's #83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish on a W-8006 foam polishing pad on the 5.0 setting.

            After that, apply a couple of coats of your favorite wax, NXT Tech Wax if you have it and your results should look pretty good.

            Note: Any scratches and swirls that do remain after the PC/DACP/W-8006 combo means that these scratches will probably have to be removed using a more aggressive product and a rotary buffer.

            Mike
            Mike Phillips
            760-515-0444
            showcargarage@gmail.com

            "Find something you like and use it often"

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by 04KevinJ
              Do I work all of the products until they are almost gone or what, do any of you use the PC with NXT?
              Work in DACP until a light residue remains.

              I apply NXT with a PC and the W9006 pad....At a slower speed.
              Last edited by rusty bumper; Apr 27, 2004, 08:19 PM.
              r. b.

              Comment


              • #8
                Here's some more help...

                Recently I detailed black 1947 Plymouth Special Deluxe Coupe with a basecoat/Clear coat finish.

                For this black 1947 Plymouth Coupe, I used,

                * Meguiar's Quik Clay System - It had white over spray paint all over the finish
                * ColorX
                * NXT Tech Wax x 2

                The results speak for themselves. The owner just about jumped out of his skin when he saw it for the first time after detailing it. Just by coincidence, he brought it by tonight and it still looks great.

                Before



                Before



                White paint overspray all over the entire car



                After



                By the way Kevin, all of this work was completed by hand. If you own a PC you will be able to get even better results.

                But first, here's a tip...

                Before working on your car's finsih by hand or with a PC, first wash your car and then inspect your vehicle's finish with the clean palm of your hand. Feel for bonded contaminants, these will feel like little bumps on your surface. If you feel these little bumpy things, then you need to clay.

                How to clay your car

                Claying your car is pretty straightforward and simple.

                Probably the most important things you can do to insure success is,

                a) Start with a clean car. Wash the car thoroughly before claying the finish.
                b) Take your time and focus on the task at hand.

                I always say,

                ”Paint is a thin, delicate coating that is easily scratched and easily dulled”

                This is especially true for clear coat finishes.

                Here are the basics,

                1. Knead you clay bar into a flat pancake shaped wafer.

                2. Lubricate your clay by misting some quick detailer onto the surface of the clay.

                3. Lubricate your finish by misting some quick detailer onto the surface of your finish.

                4. Hold the clay bar in the palm of your hand and push it across the surface in a back and forth motion as though your were rubbing a bar of soap across your skin.

                5. Take note of the way your finish feels as you begin to clay, and how the feel changes as you continue to clay the surface.


                You should be able to distinguish by the feel of how the clay bar is gliding over the surface when the surface is clean. To double check, dry off the area with a towel, or microfiber cloth and feel the clayed area with your clean dry hand. Compare how that area feels with an area immediately next to the clayed area.

                The clayed area should feel smooth as glass, the unclayed area will feel grainy, bumpy, rough or just plain covered with tiny little bumps. These tiny little bumps are all kinds of contaminants that have bonded to your finish.

                After you get a feel for how long to push the clay bar over a given area in order to remove all the bonded contaminants, mist some more quick detailer to another section and begin claying that section. Move around, section by section until each panel has been clayed. Most of the bonded contaminants will be found on the horizontal surfaces. If you want to be thorough, then go a head and clay the vertical panels.

                In the pictures above of the 1947 Plymouth Coupe, I needed to clay the entire car, including the stainless steel trim, grill and glass because of the white paint overspray.

                As long as your using a good quality clay bar, you shouldn’t have any problems. Also, as your claying the car, stop and inspect the surface of the clay and if common sense tell you it’s becoming tainted with contaminants, knead the clay, in a way that you expose a new, clean surface. Then repeat the initial steps by misting the surface of the clay with a quick detailer, and the surface of your finish with some quick detailer and begin claying again.

                Hope this helps…

                Mike
                Mike Phillips
                760-515-0444
                showcargarage@gmail.com

                "Find something you like and use it often"

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks a whole lot Mike, we did an S Type Jag today and it turned out pretty good, still see some small swirls in the sun

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