DC1 via rotary.... good idea?

[Shiny Lil Detlr]

I'm helping another detailer out on Wednesday with a particularly nasty Buick LeSabre that needs more work than he can give it by himself. He wants to use up his existing product inventory (all consumer-line stuff... I've finally convinced him to move to the Meg's pro line) so we'll be using DC1,2,3 for this particular detail. All he has is a G100, and this buick has only been done by him twice in it's lifetime so I know we're safe with regard to film build.

My question is, I was planning to do DC1 via my Rotary (with an 8006 pad), and have him follow with DC2 via G100, and then we'd both attack the car with a couple coats of DC3 applied with our G100s. Is that a good plan of attack? Or should I be duplicating either the DC1/DC2 step to bring the results up to the standards I'd be getting with my usual grab for DACP or SFP?

It's been a LONG time since I've used the consumer line products, so I feel like I'm a bit out of touch as to just how mild they are in comparison with the 80-series I've been using.

In other news, I get to tackle an interior that's been inhabited by a dog with bladder control issues -- on a regular basis!! I'm gonna need a few gallons of diH2O for the steamer on this one.....

Thanks for the help/reality check/bringing me back up to speed!

[Mike Phillips]

DC1 is not formulated for use with a rotary buffer and you might encounter a problem with the product becoming gummy when it becomes heated.

You never know what you can do until you try, so if he wants to use up his Consumer products, give it a try, it's a chemical only paint cleaner and you might not see that big of an improvement in the end-results. If you go down this road, try to keep your speed down and don't work a small area for too long.

Any cleaner/polish in the 80's series, or M66 would provide more real cleaning power with the rotary.

[Shiny Lil Detlr]

Originally posted by Mike Phillips
DC1 is not formulated for use with a rotary buffer and you might encounter a problem with the product becoming gummy when it becomes heated.

You never know what you can do until you try, so if he wants to use up his Consumer products, give it a try, it's a chemical only paint cleaner and you might not see that big of an improvement in the end-results. If you go down this road, try to keep your speed down and don't work a small area for too long.

Any cleaner/polish in the 80's series, or M66 would provide more real cleaning power with the rotary.

Thanks, Mike! I may just scratch that idea then, and have us go over it with DC1 twice with just the G100, then DC2 once (hopefully), and DC3 twice. Hopefully that gets it looking half-heartedly better.

Honestly this car is bad enough that I could easily justify heading right to 83 and a 7006 foam cutting pad with my rotary... I wish this guy wasn't so insistent on his DC stuff for this particular detail since all of my 80-series and 66 are sitting right there. This isn't the car to go mild on.

Oh well, his customer, his shop; not mine.

[rusty bumper]

Some before's & after's would be nice to see.

[Shiny Lil Detlr]

Originally posted by Rusty Bumper
Some before's & after's would be nice to see.

Believe me, I'll be getting some during the whole process....

I'm just skeptical as to how it's going to turn out without using my stronger stuff.

[Pete-FWA]

Why does he want to use the DC line? Just trying to get rid of the stuff? Sure, it might be "wasteful" to NOT use it, but the results could end up wasting time and requiring even more of it to correct or get the desired results.

Look forward to seeing the pictures, either way

Good luck

[Accumulator]

Since the DC#1 is nonabrasive I don't see the point of using it with a rotary.

I believe this "use it because you have it" strategy is called the "lost cost fallacy" or maybe the "recovered cost fallacy" I forget, it's been decades since I took that course. The idea is that you've already spent the money, trying to get some unrealizable utility out of the product isn't smart.

I'd save the DC#1 and DC#2 for jobs where they'd be the right product. They're not bad, just not the right products for what you're doing on this job. Well, the DC#2 would be OK, but I wouldn't waste the DC#1 on a car that needs abrading.

[Murr1525]

Well, the pad and speed of the rotary will add some agressiveness to the DC#1, making it more agressive than just using by hand. However, I still dont see the point...esp for the $3.50. As Chris Rock said, "Just because it can be done, doesnt mean it is to be done."