removing raindrop etchings?

[amg/md]

I have a 6 year old BMW 328ci, metallic silver, 125k miles.
I have washed, dried and taped off or covered everything necessary.
I received my DA today with pads, #80 & #83 and I have all the other supplies.
On the trunk lid, I tried #80 first on half. Did not remove raindrop etchings.
Tried #83 twice on the other half. Still did not remove.
Tried multiple applications of SX using a pad after the #83, then applied SX with a terry cloth and still did not remove them.
Overall, the paint does look better: less scratches, smoother with better gloss, but still with the water marks under incandescent light looking at an angle.
I don't have anything else more aggresive (I do have Colorx).
Should I just go ahead with the 83, then 80, then DC2 or ColorX, then wax knowing I have not removed the etchings?
I don't know if I should trust myself, being new to the DA, to try compounding (although it is an older car, and I seem to be doing fine with the DA.)
Or do I absolutely need to go to a rotary? If so, do I try 80 first, then 83? (I don't own a rotary yet).
I don't think I can take a picture that would show the etchings. I can't even see them using a 30x lighted microscope; all I see is the sparkly metallic paint.
Suggestions?

[amg/md]

Also,

I am running the DA at speed 3 using a yellow w8006 pad (separate one for 80 & 83).

Applied light pressure using the 80 and the first time with 83. Used more pressure the second time with 83 and with the SX.

[RamAirV1]

It is probably safe to try another 1 or 2 applications of #83. It is very unusual for rain to cause etch marks in the paint. Now hard water spots from post car wash rinsing is another story. But whatever it is, multiple applications of #83 with a DA may be required. I once had to use six applications of Medallion Paint Cleaner to remove bird etchings.

You are running the DA too slow with the #83. You should run it at 5.0 minimum. I know it is not recommended, but sometimes I run it wide open at 6.0. Should you decide to try that, hang on, because it is going to vibrate a little bit.

You may not be able to totally remove the etch marks. Try to remove them to a point where they are acceptable. If you can't see them with a 30X magnifier, are they really that bad?

One other thing you might try and I know this sounds crazy. Get some Klasse AIO (All-In-One) and apply according to the directions. I used this once on some water spots that the #83 could not remove and they came right off. I have no idea why it worked because AIO is not a very aggressive product.

RamAirV1

[amg/md]

Thanks RamAir,

Would I apply the Klasse the same way? Use an 8006 with the DA?

[rusty bumper]

Originally posted by RamAirV1
I know it is not recommended, but sometimes I run it wide open at 6.0. Should you decide to try that, hang on, because it is going to vibrate a little bit.

Not to mention a little sling to go along with it.

[zey]

amg/md, sounds like you're facing some really serious water etch mark (Type II). It depends on how serious it is, sometimes M80/8006/RB will be sufficient to remove shallow etch mark; sometimes you might need M85/4000/RB to remove it. Maybe it's worth to go for a few more passes of M83/8006/DA. It'll be good if you can show us a pic of the water etch mark.

[amg/md]

I tried to take some photos last night of the marks, but they didn't really show them. You can only see them with incandescent lights and looking at a low angle. Then they show up easily. But then the camera doesn't really show them.

I'll try 83 at speed 5 a couple times on the worst areas and see. I've only worked on the trunk lid so far, but the marks are on the roof and hood also.

Other than the little ring marks, I think the paint is going to turn out great.

Have I read in other threads that BMW and MB cars have a very hard clear coat?

[zey]

amg/md, often it's not surprising to apply 4 - 6 applications of M83 before the result comes in. This is the beauty of working with DA. Rotary might do the job within minutes, but also ruin the finish within seconds. I guess with your patience and passion, it shouldn't be a problem. BMW and Mercedes do have harder clearcoat. Most probably Glasurit brand of paint on certain batches if I'm not wrong. HTH.

[amg/md]

I have finished doing the entire car with 83. I know I am not going to be able to remove all scratches and etchings from the car. With it's age and mileage that is ok. Other than the stone chips and the etchings on the horizontals, it looks like it will turn out very nice.

Question, do I still need to use 80 now before I go to two coats of NXT Liquid Wax?

[zey]

amg/md, good work! Usually on metallic silver surface, you won't face micro-marring problem. So going after it with M80 could be optional depending on your expectation. However, M80 usually will give you a sleeker look and it'll replenish the lost oil in your paintwork after long term usage.

[amg/md]

Do you think the 80 is what I should use, instead of DC2 or ColorX?

[zey]

amg/md, I personally would recommend M80 over DCS2/ColorX after using M83. M83 and M80 are just like brothers, helping each other accomplishing different kind of job.

[amg/md]

I went ahead and did the whole car with 80 after the 83. Looks pretty good.
Then one coat so far of NXT Liquid Tech Wax.
Today I am playing golf early, then coming back home to apply second coat of wax. Then strip off the painter's tape, work on some of the clear plastic, finish the tires with Endurance Gel, etc.
I'll take pictures to upload. Now I just have to figure out how to do that. I printed the instructions from Mike P. I need to download that program for editing the size, etc. May take me a while to figure out; I don't have anyone else here to guide me thru it.

Zey, how many hours ahead of Eastern US time are you?

[zey]

amg/md, I can't wait for your pics! I'm sorry I don't know how much time ahead of Eastern US time, but the time zone here is +8hrs GMT - 8 hours ahead of UK time.

[RLdetail]

Originally posted by amg/md
I tried to take some photos last night of the marks, but they didn't really show them.

Have I read in other threads that BMW and MB cars have a very hard clear coat?

I have not been able to get pics of water spots either, no matter what I try. Last option is to circle it with a wax pencil and see if the camera picks up the spot.

In MY experience with both the MB paint is pretty hard. Not impossible to work with but forgiving more than most. It takes a slightly more aggressive approach to remove scratches and spots. I still try M80 first just to make sure. The MB paint is also SO SMOOOOOOOTH!

The BMW paint is a little softer but is a pleasure to work on!
Takes M80 very well.

These are MY opinions of each.