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Clay before Scratch X or Visa Versa ?

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  • Clay before Scratch X or Visa Versa ?

    Does it make a difference if you Scratch X before you clay or should you clay before Scratch X ??

    Thanks in Advance

    --Dan--

  • #2
    Depends on the condition. If the car is wickedly dirty (after washing) and oxidized you can use scratch x over the entire car to remove the "heavy" so that your clay doesn't clog up way to quickly. But if the car in average condition, then clay first, followed by your cleaning, polishing, and then waxing.
    Rangerpowersports.com
    Ranger72

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    • #3
      It is best to clay first. Here is why:

      Clay removes above surface contamination.

      If you have above surface contaminates and you use ScrathX, DC 1, or any other paint cleaner, you will be buffing the above surface contaminates against the paint.

      That is why Meguiar's suggests you clay before you clean.


      I know I am going to sound like an atomiton, but wash, clay, clean, polish, protect, and maintain.


      While it is true the clay will clog up if you have nasty contamination, you can fold the contamination into the clay. Eventually, you may need to use more clay than you normally would, but you will see and feel vivid results when you remove the above surface contamination and itw as really bad before you removed it.

      Now, you should have a very clean car with no above surface contamination. It is now the ideal time to use ScratchX, DC 1, or #80 by machine.

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      • #4
        About the only exception to claying first is if you're working on a heavily oxidized single stage finish, in this situation, you should probably use a paint cleaner or a cleaner/wax first, (like ColorX), to remove a lot of the dead paint, then fall back into sync with the usually system,

        Clay
        Clean
        Polish
        Wax

        The first cleaning step is to remove the dead paint so you don't clog up your clay like Ranger72 mentioned, and the second cleaning step is to remove below surface defects after you've removed an above surface contaminants.

        Again, this is for single stage finishes that are severely oxidized, for clear coat finishes, in most cases you would always,

        Wash
        Clay
        Clean
        Polish
        Protect
        Maintain
        Mike Phillips
        760-515-0444
        showcargarage@gmail.com

        "Find something you like and use it often"

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        • #5
          My bad, forgot to mention the whole single stage paint thing! lol It was there in my head, but there was a short from my brain to my fingers at the keyboard. lol
          allthough I have come across some severally oxidized clearcoat cars that had to be cleaned/ clayed/ cleaned/ polished waxed.
          Actually I wass doing a favor for a friend, I believe it was a Bronco (BC/CC) not sure if it was original paint. The damn thing was flat black, my buddy thought for sure the clear was gone, but when I told him it was just severe oxidation he looked at my funny, so I told him to bring the truck by and give me a hand for a couple of hours, needless to say he was shocked! I started to clay the thing first, but it turned my clay to dirt! lol so I used Medallion paint clean on the DA before claying. This was a couple of years ago before I had bought and learned to use my rotary, wow wish I had it then!
          Rangerpowersports.com
          Ranger72

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          • #6
            On the whole oxidation and single stage paint thing....

            Is a 1993 Toyota likely to have single stage paint?

            Or am I just imagining that my PC pads are red when I am done?

            As for the process, two applications of #83 and #80 later, the hood almost looks acceptable. Had some wicked "swirl" issues.

            I also worked on my 97 Chevy, metalic green diesel pickup. Clay, Scatch X, #83, #80 and then NXT. AWESOME! Pic's to follow when I am all done.

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