Emblem question

[SkeeterJD]

Is there anyway to clean this up? I would like to get rid of all the calcium deposits. If need be I can take it off and work the area then put it back on (or I should say, buy another emblem....you can't reapply these things I don't think), but I would rather not.

Any ideas?

[Mike Phillips]

I've buffed quite a few Vettes and I've always wished it were easy to remove these for the exact same reason you want to remove it, alas I think it's very difficult to get to and this makes it hard to remove. That or it's cemented on, I'm not sure without looking at one first hand.

If you can't remove it, then our new Triple Duty Detail Bush comes in hand because of the bristles on the end of the brush. I use this all the time when detailing the wax out of cracks.

Triple Duty Detail Brush

[Murr1525]

Well, if it is calcium, may need some sort of CLR type product.

I am not sure what your emblmas are attatcehed with. Many cars use double sided tape for rear emblams/lettering, not sure what that will be.

Use something like floss to slide between the emblem and the body if it is tape. That tape can often be rejuvinated, but I forget for sure what does it. I think it is like rubbing alchol or something odd like that.

About that triple duty brush, those bristles seem very stiff and scratchy. Is it really safe for on paint? Seems like the Slide Lock Brush would be safer for paint?

[MB///HRV]

I can't tell from the picture however can you tell if it is held on by 3m adhesive tape? If this is the case once you take it off you are probably better just getting a new one and putting it on. I suppose the other option is for it to be held on using pegs. If you can access it, take a look at the back side and see if there are any pegs coming through. If so, just push them from the inside using even pressure.

[SkeeterJD]

I'm pretty sure that it is like a double sided tape that they use. I would assume it could come off with a heat gun or blow dryer, but that kind of gives me the willies. I'd probably end up blistering the paint or something.

This is probably a dumb question, but a product like CLR, that would harm the paint right? I think I am going to try that brush, and even if it doesnt work, I cant imagine that it would make it look worse. I love the emblem, but why did they have to make it so hard to clean?

Thanks for the help.

[SkeeterJD]

Originally posted by MB///HRV
I can't tell from the picture however can you tell if it is held on by 3m adhesive tape? If this is the case once you take it off you are probably better just getting a new one and putting it on. I suppose the other option is for it to be held on using pegs. If you can access it, take a look at the back side and see if there are any pegs coming through. If so, just push them from the inside using even pressure.

I just looked, and it is not pegs. It is either some really strong tape, or cement.

Even the little flag poles dont move!

[MB///HRV]

Originally posted by SkeeterJD
I just looked, and it is not pegs. It is either some really strong tape, or cement.

Even the little flag poles dont move!

Perhaps someone on a corvette forum would know how these are held on.

or

1.) Check if local dealership has emblem in stock

2.) Take some dental floss (I find the glide works the best, breaks often but slices the foam tape better) and slip it behind a corner and move it back and forth just like flossing your own teeth working from one side of the emblem to the other.

If it turns out that it is held on by cement then the above probably won't work and you might as well try the brush method Mike suggested.

[the other pc]

Don't know if CLR would hurt the paint or not but I'd want to try something much more gentle first and save the CLR as a last resort. I'd try distilled white vinegar and the Triple Duty Detail Bush first (that's if you're sure it's calcium, if it's just old wax Quik Detailer and the Triple Duty Detail Bush will work).

Wet the area really well and let it soak for a while, maybe soak a microfiber and lay it over the wet emblem too. Then agitate (don't scrub too hard) with the brush, rinse and repeat a few times.


PC.

[05PhillyStang]

what about those microfiber q-tip looking things that Meguiar's sells. I can't seem to find them right now, but they look like q-tips, but with MF tips

[the other pc]

Originally posted by 05PhillyStang
what about those microfiber q-tip looking things...

I guess anything that would soak up the solution would work but I like the brush because it gets down into cracks and crevices really well and I believe the bristles have more of a tendency to dislodge deposits instead of pushing them into the paint.


PC.

[Mike Phillips]

Once you find out the optimum way to remove these come back and post that information if you don't mind. Most of the Corvettes I work on need this emblem replaced because someone that had previously buffed out the car has burned all the edges of the black plastic an under the black is white plastic and it always looks awful once it's burned through.

[the other pc]

Almost makes me want to show up at the Corvettes of Temecula Valley's detail day tomorrow just to see what we could do with one.


PC.

[stealth]

Try a soft bristle toothbrush preferrably a used one which is well broken in & softer than new. If it's mineral spots use lime away. It looks like wax residue to me. If so QD & the toothbrush will TCB.

[SkeeterJD]

This might be a dumb thought, but what about using a clay bar? Seems like if could form itself (partially) around the edges of the bigger parts of the emblem and just work it back and forth slowly. I guess I'll just try some different things and see what happens.

I wanted to wash the whole car today, but a storm is rolling in so I may just see what happens with the emblem.

Wish me luck.


[edit]
Mike, if you are doing the clinic for the Corvettes, can you maybe ask some of the Corvette members how they handle it? You are probably doing it as we speak (the clinic), so hopefully it is not too late. I went to corvetteforum.com and asked the same question and got some pretty good answers, but most of the answers were just thoughts, nobody had actually tried it.

Thanks again.

[Accumulator]

I too would try vinegar for the calcium deposits. Might even get out wax residue. I'd use the clay too, but be careful you don't get bits of clay stuck right where you *don't* want them.

This always takes forever (literally hours on some cars) and the results are seldom truly perfect. That's one reason I like to debadge my vehicles

I'd be *very* cautious about using any brush and I'd keep it soaked with something like #34. I've *never* seen a plastic bristle toothbrush that won't mar automotive paint, no matter how soft or how well-used. I'd be really careful to *not* compound the problem by adding a bunch of scratches.

The only brush I've ever seen that was soft enough for this was an "exploded bristle tip" detailing brush that TOL used to sell back in the early '90s. They've been off the market for years. Even BHBs will mar if used dry (and sometimes even when wet) once you apply enough pressure to remove the residue.

I'd use MF or cotton wadding (women's makeup "balls" or stuff pulled off Q-Tips). I'd force it into the tight spots with a sharpened swabstick/toothpick, being careful to *not* penetrate the MF/cotton lest the stick mar the paint. I'd do this first with just #34, then with a paint cleaner like DC#1, and then with a mild product like #80. Be careful not to get a bunch of excess product built up, putting you back to square one. Wipe off *all of* the product while still wet.

If you use a plush enough MF, often the nap of the MF will get into the tight spots. Takes a *long* time to polish that way though.

You could *try* soaking the sharpened swabstick/toothpick with #34 and just using it like that, but again I'd worry about marring the paint.