Questions about 83 and 80

[inthedetails]

Sorry if this has been posted before....

I have been using #83 and #80 as two of the three steps in my plan. On my wifes Volvo I was able to get away with just the speed glaze followed by NXT with awesome results.

On my Toyota pickup (93 2 wheel drive...every day driver) I had less success.

First question:

When using the 83, when do you stop buffing and remove the residue? Do you keep buffing until it's all gone? Why is my residue like concrete ... only harder?

While using the PC I had problems with both the #80 and NXT leaving a "dark film". Hard to describe, but it was similar to when you had hand buffing and there is a small amount wax visible, but it appears almost a shadow on the paint. You can usually buff it out with a dose of extra arm. Let me tell you, these weren't buffing out. I ended up doing another application of Speed Glaze in very small sections to get rid of the majority of it.

Dave


Sanity is just a state of mind

[Marcus]

Why is my residue like concrete ... only harder?

I've had similar problems and I think it has to do with the temperature, at least for me... I've tried now to put less pressure and to move over larger areas to keep the temperature down and I've been able to remove the residue without any problems.. (still there are some small areas where it feels like the product is burned into the paint but like 98% less than before)

/Marcus

[gb387]

Re: Questions about 83 and 80

Originally posted by inthedetails
While using the PC I had problems with both the #80 and NXT leaving a "dark film". Hard to describe, but it was similar to when you had hand buffing and there is a small amount wax visible, but it appears almost a shadow on the paint. You can usually buff it out with a dose of extra arm. Let me tell you, these weren't buffing out. I ended up doing another application of Speed Glaze in very small sections to get rid of the majority of it.

Well with the #80.... do not let it dry and apply to a cool surface. Work it in a small area 2 X 2, PC set at 3-5, I set mine at 4-4.5 using the polishing pad (8006). Work the area for about 2 min then wipe off wet. I have a clock in the garage with a bright orange second hand just for this.

As for NXT apply a very thin coat to the entire vehicle, I apply it with the PC set at 3 using the finishing pad (9006). Left sit for about 15 min then remove when dry. Should be very easy to remove. IMO, apply a second coat to even out the look and give a slightly deeper look.

Hope this helps!

[gtp]

Re: Questions about 83 and 80

First question:

When using the 83, when do you stop buffing and remove the residue? Do you keep buffing until it's all gone?

I'd like more clarification on this too. Pics would be nice

[inthedetails]

OK, I guess what I am asking is that since the 83 is a polish, more than a wax, do you end up with working until there is almost no residue? Or do you work it until you have evenly gone over an area and then remove it?

[Snowman]

OK, I guess what I am asking is that since the 83 is a polish, more than a wax, do you end up with working until there is almost no residue? Or do you work it until you have evenly gone over an area and then remove it?

I am no pro but I would say treat it like a pure polish and once you have the area worked evenly then go back and remove while still wet. This is what I have gathered from what others have said about the application and removal of polishes

[gb387]

Originally posted by inthedetails
OK, I guess what I am asking is that since the 83 is a polish, more than a wax, do you end up with working until there is almost no residue? Or do you work it until you have evenly gone over an area and then remove it?

I have never used #83 but I would think it applies and removes the same way #80 does (like I posted above)... I am sure someone who uses #83 will chime in.

Its kind of hard to see but here is #80 worked in and ready to remove:

[zey]

I used to have problems which inthedetails mentioned before. After using a few times, I find out that temperature is playing a big role here. Never ever work on hot or even warm surface. The product will dry up very fast, especially M83. If you're working on cool surface, stop buffing both M83 and M80 once it's in thin wet film state. I personally find that working M83 with rotary is easier than DA, but buffing time reduce tremendously to around 10 seconds for 1.5' X 1.5' area. Also, once your pad is soaked up, use a terry cloth towel to dab the pad to bring out the existing product, then add not too much of product onto the pad again.

[gtp]

thanks for the picture gb387... i dont work the product in enough when i buff. I have to buff more.. the picture helped!