#3 Machine Glaze Question

[Jeff Smith]

I am gearing up to apply #3 this afternoon. I plan on putting #20 over that.

I was hoping to put a coat of #20 on right after the glaze but something popped up and now it looks doubtful that I can do this.

My question is, can I wait and apply the #20 first thing tomorrow morning with just a QD beforehand?

I have not used the Machine Glaze before and I understand it is oily so I was concerned about letting it sit overnight. Even after I wiped the Machine Glaze off, I imagine there will still be some oily residue on the surface. I was thinking stuff might get into the oil and be hard to remove tomorrow with the QD.

[Mike Phillips]

You can get away with waiting until tomorrow as long as you use a quick detailer to remove any light dust first. M20 dries very fast and I think you could apply a light coat and remove it in about 20 - 30 minutes if you can make that happen and that would be optimal.

As far as oiliness goes, as long as you do a good job of wiping the M03 Machine Glaze off the finish will be squeaky clean and dry to the touch, not oily.

[Jeff Smith]

Great Mike,
Thanks a heap.

Just finished up the previous step and getting ready for the #3 now. Cloudy though. Looks like rain moving in on me.

I'll apply the #3. Make sure to do a proper wipe off with one of the Super Plush Terrys and maybe even a final buff off with an Extreme Shine MF.

Tommorrow I'll start off by using the QD no matter what. Will also QD later today if it gets rained on.

Thanks for all the advice. This ridgeline is really shaping up.

I am doing a bunch of experimenting on it.

I know I am gonna get laughed at and have fingers shaken at me but I plan on putting a good custom paint job on this thiing later so I am using it as a test bed to familiarize myself with some of the products. I also realize I am likely thinning the clearcoat a bit but that is all the more reason to get the new paintjob sooner.

Keep in mind I am working on a 3 month old, ungaraged daily driver. A Honda Ridgeline that has been reasonably well kept up by a newbie with lots of advice from those on this Forum. Thank you to all who have ever contributed.

Thus far.
Washed
Clayed
#80 w/DA
#9 w/DA
#82 w/DA
DC #2 w/DA


Still to come:
#3 w/DA
#5 w/ DA
#7 w/DA
#20 w/DA (2 coats)
#21 w/DA for the final.

The thing obviously looks awesome at this point. Great learning experiece getting to know the various aspects of multiple products back to back.

Oh yeah, Using all Super Plush Terrys for product removal. And using Separate 8006/9006 pads for each product application. Also using Quck Detailer w/ Quick Detail Pad on as needed basis iin between apps.

[Accumulator]

Originally posted by j333_76484
I am doing a bunch of experimenting on it...

.. I also realize I am likely thinning the clearcoat a bit ..

Thus far...
.
.
DC #2 w/DA


Still to come:
#3 w/DA
#5 w/ DA
#7 w/DA

Since only the #80/#9/#82 were abrasive, and they're pretty mild, your clear should be fine.

I do wonder if you'll be able to get much from applying the all those pure polishes one after the other, if that's really your plan (I might be reading you wrong). The DC#2/#3/#5/#7 are awfully similar products.

But hey, it's not like I haven't done plenty of stuff myself!

[Jeff Smith]

Originally posted by Accumulator
Since only the #80/#9/#82 were abrasive, and they're pretty mild, your clear should be fine.

I do wonder if you'll be able to get much from applying the all those pure polishes one after the other, if that's really your plan (I might be reading you wrong). The DC#2/#3/#5/#7 are awfully similar products.

But hey, it's not like I haven't done plenty of stuff myself!

I doubt I will get much out them either. I really don't see musch difference between each individual step but I think overall, collectively I am seeing a slight reduction in the Orange Peel effect and quite a bit more gloss thus far.

Today I knocked out DC#2 then #3 Machine Glaze. Tomorrow it will be #5 then #7. I don't expect to see a whole lot of difference but again, this is more of an experiment for me so that I can use just about all the mildly abrasive cleaner polishes as well as the pure polishes so I can kind of gain familiarity with them. It will be much easier for me to pick & choose products in the future now that I have a better grasp of the capabilitites of each.

I did notice today something with the #3 that I had not noticed with any of the other products. The outer rim of the pad kept glazing over. As time went on, these glazed spots would come of in little chunks or flakes and fly all over the place. I was using the G-100A and a 8006 pad. I would start off at about setting 3 until I had spread the product around on the srurface, then I would jump up to 5 and get to work. I guess I need to research the glazes a bit better and make sure I am applying them correctly.

[Accumulator]

Originally posted by j333_76484
..I did notice today something with the #3 that I had not noticed with any of the other products. The outer rim of the pad kept glazing over. As time went on, these glazed spots would come of in little chunks or flakes and fly all over the place. I was using the G-100A and a 8006 pad. I would start off at about setting 3 until I had spread the product around on the srurface, then I would jump up to 5 and get to work. I guess I need to research the glazes a bit better and make sure I am applying them correctly.

IMO you're overworking the #3 in a big way.

While some internet-experts make a big deal out of products "containing abrasive substances", note that #3/#5/#7/#81/Deep Crystal Step #2 are all functionally nonabrasive on automotive paint in and of themselves. I've used most of them on *very* soft lacquer and can assure you that they don't have any "cut", though some cut could come from the application media (not something as soft as an 8006 though). If you're working on a healthy, modern basecoat/clear paint, they're not gonna do any correction. Working these products with a soft pad and the PC, there's no real advantage to using a speed like "5" and it might contribute to the flying flakes that you experienced. I'd slow it down to 3-4 and keep enough product on the pad to avoid the drying out at the edge.

Note that #3 can be used by *rotary* too, so it's not like it *can't* be worked at a decent speed. But you gotta adjust your technique/etc. so you don't flash it too fast. The dried product could end up being abrasive, which isn't what you want. Other than the #5, you want to take these products off while they're still barely wet. It's OK to let the #5 dry, but don't "force-dry" any of them by overworking them during the application.

And to avoid the (possibly inevitable ) situation where one product simply removes the previously applied one, I'd try to use less and less aggressive application techniques as you progress through your choice of products.

Heh heh, I remember doing application after application of #5/#7 on my new cars back in the '70s. Not sure it made any real difference in how they looked, but I sure got a good jolt of satisfaction out of doing it

[Jeff Smith]

Originally posted by Accumulator
IMO you're overworking the #3 in a big way.

While some internet-experts make a big deal out of products "containing abrasive substances", note that #3/#5/#7/#81/Deep Crystal Step #2 are all functionally nonabrasive on automotive paint in and of themselves. I've used most of them on *very* soft lacquer and can assure you that they don't have any "cut", though some cut could come from the application media (not something as soft as an 8006 though). If you're working on a healthy, modern basecoat/clear paint, they're not gonna do any correction. Working these products with a soft pad and the PC, there's no real advantage to using a speed like "5" and it might contribute to the flying flakes that you experienced. I'd slow it down to 3-4 and keep enough product on the pad to avoid the drying out at the edge.

Note that #3 can be used by *rotary* too, so it's not like it *can't* be worked at a decent speed. But you gotta adjust your technique/etc. so you don't flash it too fast. The dried product could end up being abrasive, which isn't what you want. Other than the #5, you want to take these products off while they're still barely wet. It's OK to let the #5 dry, but don't "force-dry" any of them by overworking them during the application.

And to avoid the (possibly inevitable ) situation where one product simply removes the previously applied one, I'd try to use less and less aggressive application techniques as you progress through your choice of products.

Heh heh, I remember doing application after application of #5/#7 on my new cars back in the '70s. Not sure it made any real difference in how they looked, but I sure got a good jolt of satisfaction out of doing it

Hmm, Noted and understand all on the overworking #3. I've been somewhat rushed as things keep interfering with the plan I laid out for myself and I did not have much time to come in and research each product very well before using it, I have pretty much been applying all the products the same.
Circle around the outside edge of the backing plate.
Work Approx. a 2'x2' area slowly covering every square inch roughly 3x.


I'll back off the speed then apply just a tad more to the pad. I am getting the same results with the #5 right now. Almost done with that one. #7 will be next.

Hopefully I can work your input into the equation and get a good app on #7.

Glad I undertook it this way. Learn alot of lessons with these back to back applications. I won't ever do it again as I see it is totally uneccessary. But it is a good learning experience. Nothing gets through better for a hard headed person than by learning from his mistakes.

[Accumulator]

Heh heh, I like they way you're looking at this I know exactly what you mean about doing it and seeing for yourself. Nothing beats first-hand experience.

[Jeff Smith]

Originally posted by Accumulator
Heh heh, I like they way you're looking at this I know exactly what you mean about doing it and seeing for yourself. Nothing beats first-hand experience.

The #7 went much, much better thanks to your input. This was my first attempt at it and I fell in love with it.

I switched to the 9006 pad, put about the same amount of product on as previously described, then I went over an entire panel at a quicker speed than before, applying more product as needed. Then doubled back and wiped down with a Super Plush Terry. Then once done the whole thing, re-wiped with fresh Terry.

After learning my lesson from the first attempts with the other glazes I was able to speed through this process quickly enough to go ahead and put a coat of wax over the #7. I chose #21 as I am working to build a good basecoat to work with for the upcoming winter months. I was going to use #20 but I noted that it is said to have a little more cleaners in it. I figured putting this over the #7 might not be a good idea. Tomorrow I am putting on a 2nd coat of #21 and who knows, I may even through another coat of #7 under that.

Thanks again for all the tips. Came in handy. I still have plenty to learn but at least now I can draw from experience. Sometimes it is just hard to grasp something in text form and picture it well enough to make it a reality.

[Accumulator]

Originally posted by j333_76484
The #7 went much, much better ... This was my first attempt at it and I fell in love with it...

You must be doing it right as many people do *not* find #7 all that user-friendly the first time they use it

[Jeff Smith]

Originally posted by Accumulator
You must be doing it right as many people do *not* find #7 all that user-friendly the first time they use it

I used about a 3.5 setting on the DA, the 9006 pad and used a medium hand speed. The first time I put it on the pad I realized I was putting too much. The towel was gumming up on me so I reduced the amount of product on the pad and worked it in just to where I could just see a thinlayer then got off the DA and wiped. I knew I had it when I could apply it with a pretty thim coat and still have it moist enough to wipe off without coating the towel.

I hada much easier time with this as opposed tot he #3 & #5 as I was working it in way to much. Live and learn. Done now though. Today I applied another coat of #7 and then another coat of #21. By using all the products I used I seem to have at least knocked the tops off some of the orange peel, got rid of some self inflicted towel scratches I caused before findng this forum and learning about proper washing and maintaning. I think I actually even managed to pull a little more depth of of the white paint which is a booger to do.

So all said and done I am very happy with the results. Learned alot and now have a better idea of what to use when for the next three vehicles I have lied up in the driveway. One of which i an old Geo that has all sorts of problems and that one I am saving for Rotary practice after I get the other 2 geared up with a good start for a winter coat. The new Makita will come in handy here soon.

Thanks again for the tips.