When do you reach for #66 instead of #80?

[74 thing]

When do you decide to use #66 instead of #80?

[gb387]

well... #66 is a cleaner/wax - use it when you need a one step product that will clean the paint and add protection.

#66 Quick Detailer - Quick Detailer is a one-step cleaner/wax specially formulated for high-production reconditioning. Quickly and safely removes oxidation and blemishes. Restores deep gloss and provides a durable wax finish.

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#80 is a cleaner/polish - use it to remove swirls and fine scratches but does not add any protection to the paint. This is a great product to use to prep your paint for a wax.

#80 Speed Glaze - Speed Glaze provides paint shop safe protection. Removes light to moderate swirls, oxidation and paint defects. Restores a glistening “new paint” shine. Versatile – can be used with a rotary buffer (wool or foam pad), D/A polisher, orbital or by hand. Easy, low dusting wipe-off. .

They are two different types of products.

[Shiny Lil Detlr]

Originally posted by gb387
#80 is a cleaner/polish - use it to remove swirls and fine scratches but does not add any protection to the paint. This is a great product to use to prep your paint for a wax.

#80 Speed Glaze - Speed Glaze provides paint shop safe protection. Removes light to moderate swirls, oxidation and paint defects. Restores a glistening “new paint” shine. Versatile – can be used with a rotary buffer (wool or foam pad), D/A polisher, orbital or by hand. Easy, low dusting wipe-off. .

Ah, but then why in the "How to remove paint defects" video, do they make the claim about #80 that it is "body shop safe and contains unique polymers which will add protection which lasts until a customer's freshly painted vehicle can be waxed." ??

To me, that implies that it does in fact include some form of protection, but I'm not sure what it means. Maybe it's just referring to nothing more than what putting #5 or another of the "pure polishes" on fresh paint instead?

[MB///HRV]

The labels on most products that say body shop safe are referring to the silicone content of the product. Body shop safe products contain NO silicones. When painting a vehicle, silicones can create fish eyes or distortions in the paint, creating more work for the body shop to correct. In addition, paint will not stick to a surface with silicone on it.

[Mosca]

I've wondered this as well, and ignoring the "bodyshop safe" part of the argument as irrelevant to my needs, when would I choose #66 and when #80, seeing that #80 adds at least a month's worth of protection (the amount of time one should let a new paint job set)?

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by Mosca
I've wondered this as well, and ignoring the "body shop safe" part of the argument as irrelevant to my needs, when would I choose #66 and when #80, seeing that #80 adds at least a month's worth of protection (the amount of time one should let a new paint job set)?

They're really quite different products however to a lot of people they may seem very similar if you only focus on the end-results the products will produce.

M80 is a cleaner/polish, it is designed to remove light/fine/shallow defects and leave the finish ready for either the next step or as a last step. It contains a unique, body shop safe synthetic polymer that provides a little protection, (not like a dedicated wax or paint protectant), while the paint continues to cure and harden. After 30 days, or the time period your painter recommends you should then apply a dedicated wax or paint protectant. M80 Speed Glaze is a tool designed and formulated for use by Professionals in the collision and custom painting industries.

M66 is a cleaner/wax, this means it is part cleaner, both chemical and diminishing abrasive, part polish as in the kind of polishing oils Meguiar's uses to lubricate the finish during the cleaning process to prevent scouring and scratching and to also add gloss, clarity and richness to the paint, and part wax, this would be blended wax combining multiple protection ingredients for protection and durability instead of relying on a single ingredient.

M80 because it's a dedicated cleaner/polish is typically going to be more effective at removing defects because the focus of the formula is targeted at that goal.

M66 is also very good at removing defects but you have to remember that just like any all-in-one product, or any one-step cleaner/wax, at the same time it's cleaning the finish it's also trying to apply protection, so the focus of the formula is not as narrow or targeted at a single goal.

Both are truly great products and each has their niche in the detailing world.

[Mosca]

Thanks Mike! That really clears up a lot.

#80 is the one that works best for me, I'm not such a high volume user that the benefits of #66 would outweigh the compromise.


Tom

[RLdetail]

I finally tried some #66 and was amazed at the results!!

I used it mainly as a swirl remover (from washing) to renew the shine. I think that I'll be using this on paint that is in good condition or previously polished cars from now on as I was very pleased with the results. Takes #21 on top very well too!!!

Get a sample from someone and try it if you haven't yet!

[zey]

Recently I get good result with M80/W-8006/DA combo and topped up with M21. For deeper defects, M80/W-8006/Rotary works well too. This is the result which I get...

[Mosca]

We did a midnight blue '96 Miata last weekend with M80/M03/M21. I couldn't get any sun shots because there wasn't any sun, but I LOVE this reflection shot.

Tom