new car polishing question

[amg/md]

A newbie here--just bought a 2006 Mercedes C-55 AMG, regular black (not metallic).
All I have done so far is wash with the Gold Class Car Wash, shampoo and conditioner and dried with a drying towel.
What should I use to polish and or wax? Was thinking of the NXT Tech Wax. Do I need to use something else between the wash and the NXT wax? And should I use something after the Tech Wax, such as Quik Detailer or NXT Spray Wax.
I really do not want to mess anything up. I can afford to buy the DA, but should I do it by hand the first time? I have never used a buffer before, but I am good at learning new things, good hand/eye coordination.
Any suggestions are appreciated.
This website and forum are very helpful, nice looking. Good job.

[BJClarke001]

amg/md,

First of all, Welcome and I am sure you will get the official welcoming from Mike Phillips. (Mike: I am not trying to take your job away here. LOL)

I too was where you are now with getting a new car/s and wanting to keep it looking that way forever or even longer.

There are multiple ways of addressing your question and it all depends on how much time you want to spend doing it and your own expectations for your own results.

I am sure Mike will steer you to the 5 Step Maintenance Procedures on here which is excellent reading. But let me just give you a quick summary here what I do:

Washing:

1) Use a quality Wash like the Gold Class.
2) Use a quality wash mitt
3) Use the two wash bucket method where one is where your soapy water is contained and the other is to rinse your mitt off before re-dipping it into the soap solution (of course, wring the mitt out before putting it into the soap solution).
4) Grit Guard in both buckets. This is a device that sits at the bottom 1/3 of your buckets. It kinda looks and works like a spaghetti strainer. Any grit you pick up on your mitt drops down into the bucket (past the guard into the bottom) and helps prevent you from re-picking up the grit onto your mitt when you dunk it. You don’t want grit on your mitt unless you like scratches. LOL.
5) Wash from the top of the vehicle down and work in sections. Don’t let the soap dry on your paint is a key.
6) When washing your paint, keep whatever you use for wheels (sponge, mitt, etc) separate. You would be amazed what you can get on your mitt when washing the tires or rims and you don’t want to drag that across your paint.
7) When all done, remove your spray nozzle and sheath (that’s what I call it; others call it sheet) the water off from the top of the vehicle down. Be careful not to whack the metal hose fitting onto your paint. This sheathing action removes what I would say, 50% of the laying water on your vehicle and makes it easier for drying.



Drying:

1) I use a leaf blower to get all the water out of the nook and crannies of the vehicle. This of course is optional but I like it and it works for me. I also blast my rims and tires with it and they become close to dry with it. I do blow the painted surface mainly to get the bulk water off. If you try to totally dry your vehicle this way, you will be chasing water drops for a long time.
2) Use a high quality MF Towel or a Megs Water Magnet. Do all the painted surfaces first. Then go to the glass, trim, etc. The idea is to keep the towel from becoming too saturated. Besides, your aim is to prevent water spots on the paint and the windows can wait their turn.


Clay:

This is an option of course, yet so easy to do, how could you pass it up? Typically, the horizontal surfaces (hood, roof) need this most (dust and whatever settling) because of the contaminants actually bond with your paint. Even new cars (I did mine !!!) could use this claying for so many reasons. Like I said, it is worth it and I would do it. When done, the paint really does feel as smooth as glass.

Paint Cleaner (by hand):

Again, this is an option. Megs has a great product line called Deep Crystal (DC) System (3-Steps: Cleaner, Polish and Wax). If your paint is brand new and there are no light surface scratches that you can see under various lighting angles, then I would skip this unless you’re a Car Nut like me and do it anyways to prefect my skills. Remember to use a quality applicator pad and don’t let this stuff dry on your paint. Work a section and wipe it off with a MF Towel.


Polish (by hand):

I would use this (perhaps once or twice a year). It really kicks the shine and color up a notch or two. Remember to use a quality applicator pad and don’t let this stuff dry on your paint. Work a section and wipe it off with a MF Towel.

Wax (by hand):

You can pick so so so many different products and everyone on here has their favorites. I use DC Wax (Step 3), Gold Crystal and NXT. You will have to just try something and determine your own satisfaction level. I like all 3 and it is kinda like determining, which child you love the most (in other words, it can’t be done, you love them all equally for different reasons).

Spray Wax or Booster Wax

This is again up to you. This depends on how many times a year you plan on doing the full blown wax job (some say 3-4 times a year at least). Lately, even though I don’t need to, I been waxing every week or two with my 3 Megs wax products. The spray waxes are to give you that freshly waxed look to paint that is already properly maintained (waxed). Ex.: You might have not waxed for 3-6 weeks and you just wash your car. It looks good but you know it could look better. So the spray wax was invented to give you the kick your looking for. And it is debatable if it is easier then just re-waxing using your favorite wax product. I find it slightly easier to use with good results. So, it all depends on your expectations.


Sorry to be so long winded. I am sure others will chime in too. Just remember, it is easier to maintain a well maintained finish, opposed to trying to maintain a so so finish. Good luck and may the Shine be with you.

[Mike Phillips]

Hi amg/md,

Welcome to Meguiar's Online!

I don't think I can add anything to what Brad as posted, (Nice work by the way Brad )


The only thing I would add is even though your car is brand new, before moving on to any of the products and steps Brad outlined, it would be a good idea to inspect the finish visually and with your sense of touch to see if it has swirls, (visual inspection), or above surface bonded contaminants, (physical inspection with the palm and clean fingertips of your hand).

Even though it's brand new, it could have swirls and it could have bonded contaminants.

If your evaluation does reveal these two things, then you'll want to use detailing clay first to remove the above surface contaminants, and a paint cleaner like ScratchX afterwards to remove swirls.

If you haven't already read this, here it is, it's full of information that will bring anyone up to speed with Meguiar's products and detailing.

Meguiar's 5-Step Paint Care Cycle



And here are a few more articles, (threads), that you may find helpful...

Suggested Products for Taking Care of a New Car

Circles or Straight Lines?

How To Remove Swirls By Hand

How to tell when a Meguiar's wax is ready to remove - The Swipe Test

[amg/md]

Brad and Mike,

Thanks for your fast responses, I appreciate them.

It all seems a little overwhelming. I guess it won't be after I get into it some. Maybe I will practice on the pickup truck first.

I gather it would not be necessary to consider using the professional line of products like Mirror Glaze, etc.?

[BJClarke001]

Originally posted by amg/md
Brad and Mike,

Thanks for your fast responses, I appreciate them.

It all seems a little overwhelming. I guess it won't be after I get into it some. Maybe I will practice on the pickup truck first.

I gather it would not be necessary to consider using the professional line of products like Mirror Glaze, etc.?

Again, I was where you were. Just set out to do a hood or something. You know, like in Baby Steps. Wash the entire vehicle and then do the hood with the clay, cleaner, polish and wax. With this approach, you get the feel for the entire process in a very short time (maybe like an hour). That way, you now can envision the whole process and it will not seem so overwhelming. I did this on my New Explorers Hood when I first bought it. It did a few things for me including making sure I was not messing up my finish if I was doing something wrong. Maybe the roof is a better place because it is more sacrificial (inconspicuous) if you do any damage (I doubt you will). But the roof is hard to see when your done and you looking at it more from a side angle then on top of it (I know you could use a ladder). Bottom lines, start small, do the entire process and see your end results quickly.

As far as the professional line products: I too am learning a lot from this site and therefore, I still stick to the Consumer Line Meg Products. I am not saying the consumer line is better or worse then the pro line, it is just that I didn’t find that I needed it. The only thing I would probably do in the professional line is when I get a PC/DA Polisher; I will go with the various pro polishes and cleaners. But even then, when I do first get this machine, I am going to start off using the consumer line and then move on up to the pro line for that extra kick.

[Murr1525]

The thing with Meguiars products is that they all work well together. THe only reason to not consider them is to not confuse yourself at first.

I would recomend trying to get one product for each step, and then branching out as you get more expierience.

1. Wash: Gold Class is great
2. Clay: Quick Clay (Clay Magic or even Mothers if you cant find Quick Clay)
3. Clean: DC#1 is a mild cleaner, great for a new car with no swirls, etc.
4. Polish: DC#2 is a great polish.
5. Wax: You didnt mention a wax preference, but either DC#3, Nxt Wax, or Gold CLass wax will work great.

Once you get comfortable, you can branch out to other consumer and professional line products.

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by amg/md
It all seems a little overwhelming. I guess it won't be after I get into it some. Maybe I will practice on the pickup truck first.

Spend some time reading the 5-Step Paint Care Cycle and the thread on ow to remove swirls by hand, even though with a new car you shouldn't have to remove any swirls, the order in which to use products and the tips and techniques shared in that thread still apply when working on a finish in excellent condition.

Articles like the swipe test, circles and straight lines, etc. are just chunks of knowledge to add to what you already know.

I gather it would not be necessary to consider using the professional line of products like Mirror Glaze, etc.?

You can move to the Professional Line, or stay inside the Consumer Line and even mix and match as our product line is cross-line compatible. Be assured you can achieve professional results using our Consumer line as long as you first evaluate the condition of the surface you are working on, choose the right product, use good technique and add the human elements of care and passion.

You're going to do great! Have confidence, but also have fun!

[BJClarke001]

amg/md,

And in reality, you don't have to start out with all the steps if they are seemingly confusing. Stick with just washing and waxing and work your way up to the "Other" Procedures. Ya gotta start somewhere and washing and waxing are the most important.

Most of all, let us know what you did and how you did. Remember........ Baby Steps.

[amg/md]

Took the advice to visually inspect first. A friend owns a collision repair shop that does work for BMW and Mercedes dealers around here. He said my car had an excellent finish on it and to skip the claying. Said polishing, waxing and finishing was fine. I will probably do the paint cleaner, polish, wax and spray finish routine. Also recommended I use one of those chamois cloths that come in the plastic tube to wash the car with instead of a mitt. He said that's what he uses on his pure black Porsche and he doesn't get any swirls that way at all. Also recommended doing the work by hand for now.
I'll keep you posted on my progress. I need to buy my products and then get going.
Thanks again guys.

[amg/md]

OK, my update so far.

I washed, leaf blower dried, DC#1, DC#2, two coats NXT Tech Wax (one day apart) and finished with NXT spray wax. All work done in shade (not under any trees) and kept car in garage when not working on it. This is a new Mercedes C-55 AMG (delivered Sept. 1st), regular black paint (non-metallic). I have followed all the recommended procedures (like two bucket washing, etc.). The dealer did wash the car prior to delivery.

I have done the roof, hood, trunk, front bumper and passenger sides so far in my spare time (this is taking long doing by hand and it's been pretty warm and humid here).

So my problem is this: car looks fantastic in the garage under incandescent light and also in the shade outside. Deep color, wet looking, great reflection, really smooth. But I drove it one block away to a shopping center last night and parked under those tall gas lights used in parking lots (like mercury vapor lights or whatever). And low and behold I then saw the light spider web circular lines.

I hate to think I need to start all over again and use another product, but reading other forum threads leads me to think I need to.

Please help this newbie again if you would. I have received many compliments from my friends and neighbors so far. They all want to know if I would help them do their vehicles!! But I still have this car to finish and then work on my '98 pick up and my '00 BMW and my son's Honda.

Ric

[Murr1525]

Well, you are going to pick up some swirls no matter what, and I am sure the dealer installed a few.

Your options are basicaly to swithc to a paint cleaner like ScratchX, or even ColorX, that can remove swirls by hand. Or just finish up as ou have been, and tackle the swirls on your next full detail.

For the person with lots of cars to detail, the G-100 is an excellent investment. Much easier to remove the swirls that you get naturaly, and keep a perect look.

[amg/md]

I think I understand that DC#1 is a non-abrasive, chemical only paint cleaner and Scratch X is a mild diminishing abrasive cleaner.

I guess I will continue to finish my Benz the way I am right now, especially since I have finished the horizontal surfaces.

When I decide to use the Scratch X that I have, I use that right after washing and drying as the next step? Also, if I use the Scratch X, will I be able to see, providing the lighting shows it properly, if I have indeed gotten the spider webs out? Or do I need to polish and wax before they would become evident?

Thanks,

Ric

[Murr1525]

Technicaly speaking, the order would be:

1. Wash/Dry
2. Clay - If you havent clayed before, I highly recomend it. Works great even on brand new cars.
3. Clean - This is where you would use either DC#1 or ScratchX
4. Polish
5. Wax

And you will want to remove the swirls as much as possible/to your liking before moving on to polishing and waxing. If they are just light swirls, they should be able to come out completly. Be sure to read the articles on removing scratches and applying ScratchX in the how-to section.

Also, ScratchX can be an arm killer for the whole car. I often recomend doing part one day, part another. Perhaps doing it now on part of the car, then doing the other parts you finished later is possible for you.

[Mike Phillips]

From a practical point of view, as long as a car is a daily driver, you're always going to have fine swirls or cobweb-effect just as a normal course of wear and tear, even things like washing can instill very fine swirls over time even with the best techniques.

The goal should be to remove them to the best of your ability and then use a quality wax to take your finish to a higher level, then maintain these results with frequent applications of wax.


Like Brad mentioned, if your goal is truly a flawless finish, then you really ought to consider investing into a dual action polisher like our G100, a pad kit, some M80 Speed Glaze and enable yourself to do professional quality work.

If you're friends, family and neighbors like what they see now, wait till you show them what you can do with a polisher. I have seen a lot of people make the move to machine polishing which has given the better results with less work while saving them time, and then recouped their investment by detailing a few cars for money for others.

[Accumulator]

amg/md: First thought: modify your inspection technique. Find a
way to duplicate what's so *easy* to see under the parking lot lights. I know, not easy at all. But it *can* be done (I do it on silver ).

Second thought: Mechanically/abrasively removing marring is a lot tougher than most people expect. Do you really want to go there?

Third thought: unless the marring *really* bothers you, don't worry about it. Maybe try additional applications of NXT paste or liquid (not the spray).