#16

[Blr123]

Hi all,

I was wondering what makes #16 especially for the Pro?

Also what combination which includes #16 works best?

Bryan

[Mike Phillips]

M16 came out in 1951. Meguiar's didn't introduce the Consumer Line until 1973. So by default, since Meguiar's only catered to Professionals, this is where the M16 was placed. There wasn't anywhere else to go so to speak.

As for combos, I'll let others make their recommendations.

[Accumulator]

Re: #16

Originally posted by Blr123
I was wondering what makes #16 especially for the Pro?

Heh heh, the old joke around here was that "only a pro can figure out how to open the can"

IIRC all the original "Mirror Glaze" products were incorporated into the "Pro" line. Is that basically right, Mike?

Oh, and most *any* combination works well with #16, it certainly works well over any Meguiar's product I've ever tried. As you're over in the UK you might try it over Autoglym SRP, that's a combo I've had great success with (sorry to mention an non-Meguiar's product ).

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Re: #16

Originally posted by Accumulator
Heh heh, the old joke around here was that "only a pro can figure out how to open the can"

Yep... pull a quarter out of you pocket and slide it between the lid and the can in the pry space.



Early can of MGH-16 (Later to become M-16)

IIRC all the original "Mirror Glaze" products were incorporated into the "Pro" line. Is that basically right, Mike?

Yes, as far as I can tell as both Mirror Bright and Mirror Glaze products were formulated for use by professionals.





Meguiar's didn't introduce the Consumer line until 1973, this was brought about by word of mouth advertising, which resulted in a critical mass of customer demand.

Here's the first products Meguiar's introduced in 1973,

Cleaner/Wax Paste


Cleaner/Wax Liquid

[SpoiledMan]

My favorite combo for #16 is OVER Tech Wax. The surface is nice and slick after the Tech Wax has cured and the #16 goes on so smooth and is easy to remove.

[bluemoon]

I have used #16 right after polishing with #80, or after applying #20, or after applying NXT. I was happy with all 3 results. Opening the can for me was the easy part, learning how thin is thin when applying it was the hard part.

[Tim Lingor]

Originally posted by bluemoon
Opening the can for me was the easy part, learning how thin is thin when applying it was the hard part.

You are so right! One really needs to apply a VERY thin and even coat. Being a hard wax, it dries hard as a rock! Keep the coats thin and you will be just fine!!!

Tim

[Accumulator]

Easiest way for me to apply it thin is to do it by machine (preferably Cyclo). All those orbits-per-minute help it do the "turn it liquid" thing that I love about #16 and make it easy to spread it over a large area. Pretty incredible how little #16 it takes to do a vehicle this way, a tin will last for many years. Removing by machine (MF bonnets) seems to work great with this product too.

[bluemoon]

Originally posted by 2hotford
You are so right! One really needs to apply a VERY thin and even coat. Being a hard wax, it dries hard as a rock! Keep the coats thin and you will be just fine!!!

Tim

I read a thread in another forum once, someone was talking about a certain type of sealant and wrote, if you can see it, it is too thick. I have adapted that to using #16. If I can see it, I know that it is too thick and I need to spread it out more.

[Scottwax]

There are very good reasons I stocked up on #16 when I heard it was being discontinued...and the posts above mine pretty much list them all.

Over #80, #20 or NXT, #16 excels in gloss and protection.

[bluemoon]

Since we are on the topic of #16 and how good it looks, has anyone applied it using the spit shine method using some #34 or equivilant? I can see how spit shining would work on a leather boot. But I am having a tuff time seeing how it would work on a painted surface. My thoughts were that by adding other ingrediants to the wax you would change the chemical make up of the wax and that would change its characteristics, altering the final results, which could be for the worse. Also,as I understand it, the reason for spit shining is to build up as much wax on the surface as possable, but isn't the amount of wax that will adhere to a painted surface pretty limited. I could be all wrong with this theory tho, and just curious if it does actually work.

[Tim Lingor]

Hey,

Meguiar's recommends that no other liquids etc should be used in the application or removal of their waxes and/or sealants. To do otherwise may jeopardize the products performance. It may not hurt anything either. But why take a chance on messing with something the chemists did not intend for it to be used with?

Tim

[bluemoon]

Good thing to know. Thanks for the help