Fresh paint and Speed Glaze

[thejazzguy]

From the Meguiars.com FAQ, fresh (non-factory) paint should not be waxed so that the solvents can evaporate out of the paint until it has cured.

Why is Speed Glaze safe to use when it provides protection? That is, how can it breath and still protect?

I ask because I'm having rust on my windshield header repaired (and the stress-cracked windshield replaced) and it requires that the roof be resprayed. I could always just use 81 but I'd like some protection from the elements, hence my inquiry about 80.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Fresh paint and Speed Glaze

Originally posted by thejazzguy
Why is Speed Glaze safe to use when it provides protection? That is, how can it breath and still protect?

Because our chemists are very good at what they do. Not to take this question/thread off-track, but when it comes to synthetic polymers, our Velocity Mold Release and Sealer are truly cutting edge polymer technology. This technology just doesn't exist anywhere else. The same guys who think this stuff up also make our automotive products.

[thejazzguy]

Mike,

I wasn't trying to sound skeptical!! I only use Meguiar's paint products and have used 80 and 83 among many others. I was merely curious! I'm not a fan of those posts when people second guess the ability of the Meguiar's chemists. So please don't think that's what I was doing here.

[Mike Phillips]

Hi thejazzguy,

I think you read my reply wrong, I didn't mean to make it sound like you didn't trust us, it's just I can't talk about ingredients or formulas, so in situations like this, all I can answer questions with is that sometimes you just have to put your trust in the name on the bottle.

I was fortunate to work with one of the chemists who worked on the Velocity project and then I also wrote all the copy for the line so I know a little bit about it and it is some truly incredible polymer technology.

Anyway, point being is I don't know how they make a product like M80 Speed Glaze but it is a very good product and it does contain a special polymer that will provide a little protection while not interfering with the curing process.

[jimbo_01]

while this is being asked, i wondered what all of your products were safe to use on fresh paint? i think i recall seeing that final inspection is and that's why i bought some of it. also is the show car glaze safe?

[rusty bumper]

Originally posted by jimbo_01
while this is being asked, i wondered what all of your products were safe to use on fresh paint? i think i recall seeing that final inspection is and that's why i bought some of it. also is the show car glaze safe?

If you are referring to #7, then yes, it is safe for fresh paint.

I can't remember all of the "Paintable" products that are safe for this, but here's (to the best of my knowledge) a few that should be safe to use....

#85, #84, #83, #82, #81, #80 in the Body Shop Pro series.

#1, #2, #4, #7, #9, in the professional line..........(I probably left out a few here).

[mcrimm]

To continue the discussion concerning fresh paint - - - My '04 Mazdaspeed Miata Titaninum comes out of the shop after having a fender replaced due to a parking lot crash. Naturally the fender will be painted as will the paint be blended across the hood and driver's door.

I had just clayed and applied #20 right before the crash.

When is it safe to reclay and reapply #20 or Techwax? Is there something else I should do?


Thanks

Mike


Also - - Is it just me - - why doesn't #21 come in a family size jug of about 16 oz.? I don't need a lifetime supply. I'd love to try it.

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by mcrimm
When is it safe to re-clay and reapply #20 or Tech wax? Is there something else I should do?

Ask you painter for his recommendation. Usually most painters will tell you to wait for about 30 days before applying a wax or any kind of paint sealant. Until then you can apply a pure polish like the ones listed in this thread.

Also - - Is it just me - - why doesn't #21 come in a family size jug of about 16 oz.? I don't need a lifetime supply. I'd love to try it.

It's distributed in our Professional Line and targeted towards Professionals thus the larger size. You could always post your request as a suggestion in the New Products Suggestions forum.

[Accumulator]

Originally posted by Rusty Bumper
..I can't remember all of the "Paintable" products that are safe for this, but here's (to the best of my knowledge) a few that should be safe to use....

#85, #84, #83, #82, #81, #80 in the Body Shop Pro series.

#1, #2, #4, #7, #9, in the professional line..........(I probably left out a few here).

I'll fill in one product since one of the ones you left out is *my* fave for fresh paint- #5 New Car Glaze. It leaves a little protection but will need redone after a thorough wash. Heh heh, I sometimes think I'm the last guy on earth still using this stuff, but after decades with it I still like it best for this application.

Only problem (and that's really too hash a word for it) I have with #80 for this application is that it contains abrasives that might not be needed/desired. Usually just a theortical thing, but last year I had some fresh RM brand b/c paint that was too soft for #80 until it had cured for quite a while. The #80's initial cut was too aggressive and as it broke down it wouldn't remove the micromarring (had to use an even milder abrasive to fix it). But that *was* the only instance.

[ebpcivicsi]

Originally posted by Accumulator
I'll fill in one product since one of the ones you left out is *my* fave for fresh paint- #5 New Car Glaze. It leaves a little protection but will need redone after a thorough wash. Heh heh, I sometimes think I'm the last guy on earth still using this stuff, but after decades with it I still like it best for this application.

Only problem (and that's really too hash a word for it) I have with #80 for this application is that it contains abrasives that might not be needed/desired. Usually just a theortical thing, but last year I had some fresh RM brand b/c paint that was too soft for #80 until it had cured for quite a while. The #80's initial cut was too aggressive and as it broke down it wouldn't remove the micromarring (had to use an even milder abrasive to fix it). But that *was* the only instance.

You always leave me out when calling role for remaining #5 users.

When it is summer time in Memphis, #5 is the inly Meguiars glaze that I use. It is IMO the easiest of the Meguiars glazes to use.

[rusty bumper]

#5 Eh?

I'll have to investigate this.......Maybe Mike could give a bottle to Lynn for a prize on BCC.

[Accumulator]

Rusty Bumper- I'd be interested to hear what you think of #5. I recognize the (appearance) advantages of other pure polishes like #3/#7, and even #81, but for me they are outweighed by the user-friendly nature of #5. Well, at least on basecoat/clear

Originally posted by ebpcivicsi
You always leave me out when calling role for remaining #5 users.

When it is summer time in Memphis, #5 is the inly Meguiars glaze that I use. It is IMO the easiest of the Meguiars glazes to use.

Heh heh, yeah I *did* forget all about you! And with my wife being from Memphis and visiting there all the time you'd think I'd remember!

I recall how you found it easy to use in the heat/humidity; I thought about you when I sent a bottle down with the Volvo that I gave it to my niece-in-law. She found it *so* easy to use that now she's all into keeping the Volvo nice. So there are at least two #5 fans in Memphis