Megs #83

[wolverine63]

Newbie so please be gentle...i just got my pc and for practice i have a 86 accord 4 banger that i used...washed....clayed..then tried #83 ....what a mess....product went on ok but seemed to dry realy fast and i had a heck of a time geting off the rest of it...any help???

[Tim Lingor]

Hey Wolverine,

Welcome to Meguiar's Online!

Firstly, never worry about asking a question on MOL!!

Here is a thread that discusses the use of #83 DACP

PC + #83 not "Cutting" it! - The Limits of the Dual Action Polisher

The key with using #83 is to really work the product until it is a light residue/dust, but not a dry buff. This may take a few minutes per 2'x2' area. Also, if the product is gummy up or difficult to remove, you are either using too much product or not working it in long enough before wiping off the residue.

Tim

[Mike Phillips]

I noticed you're in Florida, how warm was it when you were using it? Also, were you in the shade, out of the sun?

M83 can sometimes become gummy on the surface when used with a rotary buffer, but if this is happening with a dual action polisher it can usually be traced to too much product, not worked long enough and/or really warm temperatures.

Did it start out that way from the get-go? Or did it progressively become more difficult to remove. If it became more difficult to remove, you might try cleaning any excess out of your pad before applying fresh product.

Here's a tutorial on how to use the dual action polisher with the M83, read through it and see if you were i the zone as far as all the different techniques that are involved.

Using the G-100 to remove swirls with the Professional Line

[joenj1]

Wolverine,

I had the same issue at first on my Subaru this weekend.... I realized I wasn't working the product long enough... when I moved the #83 around until it almost looked dry it came off very easily.

BTW, I had written in about my black Subaru a few weeks ago and the trouble I had with serious acid rain water spot etching (Type II).

After washing, claying, using #83 on hoizontal surfaces and #80 on verticals, there was a significant difference in my car! I finished with #26 wax, which caused some polished areas that were a bit hazy to "pop" into a beautiful shine!

So, the process works.... unfortunately, I had to stop working on my hood, since I've appeared to open hundreds of tiny scratches/etchings in the paint that resemble towel lint... don't think I went too far, as I didn't get beyond the clear coat (no black paint on my pad). I'm afraid the acid rain may have eaten all the way to the base coat, or I'm just seeing polish dust in some surface scratches.

Sorry if this is a bit off-topic but I wanted to tell Wolverine to stick with it and he'll get the look he wants.

[wolverine63]

Thanks for the tips guys....i did some testing tonight after work on the trunk lid using dcpc...i didnt have the problem with geting off the dcpc like i did the 83...i did a 2x2 area until the trunk lid was finished and then i went over it again....the next step was #7 and boy did the paint seem to like that!...i also did this step twice...after the second coat of #7 the paint just loved all the oils ect in #7...after thinking about it is it possible the paint is "dryed out"???...i am a newb so just trying to figure this out so i can take care of my vehicles ...Thanks for any help!!.....p.s. i really like #7!!!