Priming New/Clean Pad

[zey]

Any difference in method of priming a new/clean pad when using with rotary and PC?

[Tim Lingor]

Re: Priming New/Clean Pad

Originally posted by zey
Any difference in method of priming a new/clean pad when using with rotary and PC?

With the rotary I prefer to spray the pad with #34 Final Inspection. Some like to place an "X" on the pad of product but this can sometimes cause sling on the initial start of the buffer.

Tim

[Mike Phillips]

If you like, you can prime, (wet), a new pad, or a dry clean used pad with a little quick detailer before applying compounds, paint cleaners or even cleaner/polishes.

Any quick detailer will work. I don't do this myself, but I know others that do, especially with the W-7006 and W-7000 foam cutting pads when they are new/dry as they are pretty aggressive as far as foam goes and wetting them adds a little softness/lubricity to the pad/surface when you are first starting to buff.

After your pad begins to become saturated with the product you're applying this no longer is necessary.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Re: Priming New/Clean Pad

Originally posted by 2hotford
Some like to place an "X" on the pad of product but this can sometimes cause sling on the initial start of the buffer.

Tim

Once in a while I do this by accident as a result of showing people often how to apply product to a foam pad when using the dual action polisher.

It only takes a few seconds with the trigger pulled on the rotary buffer to remind me why not to do this!

[zey]

Thanks alot Tim & Mike. I got the answers clearly. I was thinking usually the inner area of the pad is holding more product compared to the outer area of it. So whenever the outer area touches the surface, it might swirl up if we do not prime the pad to add more lubricity and softness.

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by zey
Thanks alot Tim & Mike. I got the answers clearly. I was thinking usually the inner area of the pad is holding more product compared to the outer area of it. So whenever the outer area touches the surface, it might swirl up if we do not prime the pad to add more lubricity and softness.

That's a good observation and a good reason to prime the pad, at least on the outside.

After you've been buffing for a few panels your pad should be pretty broke in and as long as you make a few cover passes over the area you started out on, you should remove any potential swirls that may have been instilled.

If you're starting out with a foam cutting pad, a second pass using a foam polishing pad and a less aggressive product will also remove any start-out swirls from not priming the pad also.

[zey]

I've read somewhere in this forum about laying a strip of 6"-8" of product and to be picked up by rotary at 10 o'clock for 2'X2' of area. As a beginner, I'm always working with 1'X1' of area, can I just lay 3"-4" strip of product?

[Tim Lingor]

Originally posted by zey
I've read somewhere in this forum about laying a strip of 6"-8" of product and to be picked up by rotary at 10 o'clock for 2'X2' of area. As a beginner, I'm always working with 1'X1' of area, can I just lay 3"-4" strip of product?

For a 1'x1' area, you may want a 2"-3" strip as you will have plenty of product to cover that area without saturating the pad unnecessarily.

Tim

[Ranger72]

Re: Re: Re: Priming New/Clean Pad

Originally posted by Mike Phillips
Once in a while I do this by accident as a result of showing people often how to apply product to a foam pad when using the dual action polisher.

It only takes a few seconds with the trigger pulled on the rotary buffer to remind me why not to do this!

LOL The first time I picked up my makita, I was trying to do everthing right (everything that I wrote down from the Meguiars "How to Remove Paint Defects" video) Well, I tried the "X" lol my brother beater foucs god a windshield full of #83. BAHAHAHA. Now, I only prime my W7000's if they have dried out. I use some quik detailer and then work it in by hand and run the buffer with my bristle brush to get any excess out. Works well for me.