Hi all. A month or so ago, I was advised from this forum that I use #80 just like a wax on my newly repainted hood. I forgot to ask then if the diminishing abrasive will be broken down sine the application process is quite light(?) for lack of a better term, since i am doing it kinda wax application. will this method introduce marring?
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#80 is a polish and should be applied as such with a buffer or with a lot of effort by hand to be effective. Applying it light and quick like a wax has no benefit. Also it should not be left on to dry like a wax, it should be cleaned off with an MF towel while still moist. Keep in mind that body shops will buff a finish with a rotary buffer after the paint dries.
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I seem to deal with fresh paint quite often, and I use Meguiar's products on it. Lots of good choices in their lineup.
Regarding the #80, a lot of it will depend on how hard the paint is. Even "abrasive" products can be *functionally* non-abrasive if the paint is hard enough. Some paint is too hard for #80 to do anything. On the other hand, I've had fresh paint that was too soft for #80, but that's awfully rare (as in, happened once).
If you don't see any marring from the #80 then you probably don't have anyBut I'd a) use it as directed, working it until it's clear so you know the abrasives have broken down, or b) use a nonabrasive "pure polish" on the fresh paint. I use #5 New Car Glaze for jobs like this; after trying a lot of products it's still my favorite stuff for uncured paint. Very user-friendly, shiny and slick. Much better suited to the "wax-like" application method.
Practical Perfectionist
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# 80 is the best in my opinion if you want some protection on new paint, but I guess any of the body shop safe products will help protect the finish to some degree. If I were to use #7, etc., then I would apply it weekly if possible.Last edited by rusty bumper; Jul 17, 2005, 11:45 AM.r. b.
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