Hey Cyclo users, have problems with 80-series?

[Aurora40]

I was trying to address some of the issues on the Corvette today. I started out with #80 and a polishing pad on the Cyclo on a test spot. Then stepped up to #83 DACP on the same pad, and eventually to #83 and an orange pad because the others weren't really cutting it.

However, I was having a lot of trouble with the #83 when I'd go to buff it off. It was practically impossible to remove. I tried less product, more product, buffing less, buffing more (to the degree I was comfortable with), and nothing worked. I seriously could not remove it from the paint, even with QD assistance (I tried QD'ing the pad too, didn't help).

Ultimately I used #80 with a polishing pad on the whole hood, and even that was hard to buff totally. I ended up going over it with Klasse AIO by hand just to get the dang #80 off.

Has anyone else had success with these polishes by Cyclo? The Cyclo + orange pad is really impressive on defects without hazing the finish, but it just wasn't worth the incredible difficulty to buff! The car is in the garage, still masked off, so I'll probably hit it again some evening with the PC instead, but I'm dissappointed in the performance of the 80's and the Cyclo.

Temp in the garage was 82F and humidity was 40%.

[RamAirV1]

The Cyclo appeared to work very well when you worked on that red Z last weekend. I've never used the Cyclo so I can't provide much info to you. Maybe you should follow up with a rotary.

Could there have been an issue with the cyclo pads. Combining different products on one pad is usually not recommended. But you did switch pads eventually.

I did try some 4" pads (non-Meguiars product) on my PC with #83. That combination worked very well but after one buffing session the pads were essentially useless. Their performance degraded rapidly. Then soon after that the pad fell apart.

RamAirV1

[Aurora40]

On that Z, it was only on a very small spot. So it was easy to buff the residue quickly right after stopping the machine. Also, it was a bit hard to buff off then too.

I only tried the #83 on the same pad because it previously had a lighter compound on it. Also, all the buffing except for that test was on dedicated pads. And I had a hard time removing the residue from the start all the way to the end.

[RamAirV1]

For some reason it looks like the 83 was drying too fast. Why? I have no idea. I find #83 to be more difficult to use with the PC than #80 or MPPC. That is probably because it is really meant for rotary use. But for removing moderate scratches and swirls with the PC, nothing works better. You have to really work it to break down the diminishing abrasives, but you have to be careful not to let it dry either.

Another thought came to mind, maybe the smaller pads create more heat, causing the products to dry more quickly? When I used the 4" pad on the PC, the paint actually warmed up a little bit, and the scratches I was working on were removed more effectively. But, like with the Z, I was working on a very small area. I was amazed at how well those scratches on the Z were removed with the cyclo. I had never seen one in use, nor seen the results of one, before

Maybe when you try the PC, that will answer questions about the effect of pad size.

RamAirV1

[Aurora40]

Yeah, it could be like you are saying. The Cyclo for sure can make some heat. Not like a rotary, but much more than a PC.

And, I've used Klasse AIO by PC before with no probs. But with a Cyclo, forget it. It totally gums up and is a disaster even with no pressure and fast passes.

I really want to use the orange pads and Cyclo, though. I don't have an orange PC pad, and the burgandy Meg's pad leaves hazing.

Maybe I can use #83 by Cyclo and then remove any stuck residue with #80 and a PC, but I wonder if maybe that's asking for trouble/marring?

The #83 was wet when I stopped polishing, and whatever I wiped off right away came off ok. But within like an instant of stopping, it would dry up and turn to glue. It was very odd and very frustrating.

[rusty bumper]

Re: Hey Cyclo users, have problems with 80-series?

Originally posted by Aurora40
However, I was having a lot of trouble with the #83 when I'd go to buff it off.

I presume you are talking about wiping the product off by hand?

[RamAirV1]

Originally posted by Aurora40
Yeah, it could be like you are saying. The Cyclo for sure can make some heat. Not like a rotary, but much more than a PC.

And, I've used Klasse AIO by PC before with no probs. But with a Cyclo, forget it. It totally gums up and is a disaster even with no pressure and fast passes.

Klasse AIO is very easy to use and is a great product, even when used by hand. So that tells me that the cyclo may be the issue with the small pad area. If Meguiars did not exist, I woud probably be using Klasse AIO and SG as LSPs.

RamAirV1

[Tim Lingor]

Hey Aurora40,


It sounds to me like the pads may be saturated and lead to the product gumming up on the paint. I would suggest cleaning the pad with a cloth or a brush after every second panel.

Also, I have not used a Cyclo or the non-Meguiar's pads so I have to wonder if it is something to do with the pads not working with the product. Finally, some Vettes have hard paint that sometimes requires the use of a rotary to remove swirls.

I would suggest using the PC, a W-8006 Polishing Pad with the speed at #5 and #83 DACP. If this combo does not do it, you may need to look at using the rotary.

Please keep us posted!

Tim

[ebpcivicsi]

I have had issues with both #80 and #83 via cyclo. The #80 with green pads and the #83 with the orange pads. Same situation as you, gummed up, welded on, PIA to use. This was on Ford and I have not had the problem since(even with the same combination). The pad was NOT loaded as this was the first panel. I ended up switching to a poorboy's polish. Hi-temp's polishes work great with the cyclo as well.

Now I just stick to the PC or rotary (where the 80's series really comes alive IMO) when applying Meguiars polishes.

[Superior Shine]

I solved my cyclo problems with one word -EBAY

[Aurora40]

Re: Re: Hey Cyclo users, have problems with 80-series?

Originally posted by Rusty Bumper
I presume you are talking about wiping the product off by hand?

Sorry, yeah that's what I mean. Wiping off the product after application. I tried Ultimate Wipes (the v2 ones) and actually thicker MF's worked better (ended up using AutoFiber towels).

Tim, unfortunately Meg's doesn't make a 4" pad. But they are Lake Country variable contact pads. I'd prefer a flat pad, but it's the LC VC pads or the cheapy Cyclo pads...

Anyone think buffing off the Cyclo haze with the PC and #80 would be a bad idea?

I'm thinking I'll just go over the car via PC with #83 and then #80. But it's a shame the Cyclo's not working out as it's a nice tool. And it is much easier to use on some areas of the 'vette like the "roll bar" (for lack of a better word) since it is narrow.

I've never felt that comfortable using a rotary... But maybe it's time I started getting comfortable with it. :-\

For now, though, I'm happy with making an improvement in the paint even if there are still defects (mostly water spotting). I figure the paint will only get better looking, and I'm not in any rush.

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by Superior Shine
I solved my cyclo problems with one word -EBAY

I'm 100% with Joe on this one. I was sent a Cyclo Polisher to test and I really tried hard to like the machine and get great results from it. In the end, here was my concrete conclusions.

There is never a situation where I would pick the Cyclo Polisher over the rotary buffer or the dual action polisher. There just isn't any surface imperfection that one of these other tools wouldn't address and correct faster and more efficiently than the Cyclo Polisher would do. It's a cool looking tool, I'll give it that, and it's light weight and balanced, for it's size, in my opinion, (For whatever that's worth), given the choice between the rotary buffer, the dual action polisher, or the Cyclo Polisher, I would always reach for either the rotary buffer or the dual action polisher first.

YMMV

[Aurora40]

Originally posted by Mike Phillips
It's a cool looking tool, I'll give it that, and it's light weight and balanced, for it's size, in my opinion, (For whatever that's worth), given the choice between the rotary buffer, the dual action polisher, or the Cyclo Polisher, I would always reach for either the rotary buffer or the dual action polisher first.

YMMV

Well, imagine you were not the rotary expert you are. For someone who is not as experienced, the Cyclo has similar safety to the PC, but can be more aggressive than the PC can be. It has wider motion and a stronger motor.

While obviously not that different from the PC, the Cyclo is also a nice tool. I'd really like to get it to work with these products.

I'd say that if it doesn't do different work than a PC, then it seems odd it would have problems with certain products that the PC doesn't have.

No offense Joe, and I know you meant it lightheartedly, but your advice is similar to telling someone with serious paint defects in difficult paint to sell their car. I'd really like to get the Cyclo to work with these products, and am wondering if anyone else has been successful with this.

For rotary users, any tips you use to keep theses products with similar pads from drying out? I can't imagine the Cyclo dries them out quicker than a rotary. Tim, I will try a clean pad and using less product to see if it's a saturation problem.

[rusty bumper]

Originally posted by Aurora40
For rotary users, any tips you use to keep theses products with similar pads from drying out? I can't imagine the Cyclo dries them out quicker than a rotary. Tim, I will try a clean pad and using less product to see if it's a saturation problem.

I'm not a rotary user, but I've heard of people spritzing a little water to help keep the product from drying out.

[Accumulator]

Aurora40- I've used the Cyclo with their green pads and #80. It worked fine for me, so I'm not sure what's going on in your case. I had the same troubles using AIO via Cyclo as you did, but the #80 worked fine....

This is probably obvious stuff that you've already considered, but annyhow- I didn't use excess product (or too little either), I did not apply pressure (wasn't after much correction) and I didn't buff it any longer than necessary (just to the point of it "clearing" but still a long way from dry). It wiped off easily, not at all like the "plastered on" effect .

Can't help with the #83, don't use it.

You folks who don't like the Cyclo, well, as Mike said, YMMV. No way would I *ever* reach for another tool if I can do the job with the Cyclo. Heh heh, I just finished doing a coat of #16 both on (white pads) and off (suede-style MF bonnets) with the pair of Cyclos and it was as much fun as I can have waxing a car and I used so little product that the bonnets and my final wipe towel didn't even appear used. In fact, doing my wife's A8 this weekend, it was almost all rotary or Cyclo. Only used the PC for one or two odd contours. To each their own and a lot of it is probably familiarity with the thing.