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Removing Heavy Oxidation?

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  • Removing Heavy Oxidation?

    I have a 1988 wrangler with the original paint (clear coat). You can see the paint on the hood has some nasty oxidation and in some spots it looks almost like water stains. The paint on the sides is a little better but it is faded.
    I went over the car with what I think is #6 (their is a big yellow six on the front of the bottle, it is a cleaner wax). It helped a lot and brought the car to what it looks like now but I'd like to do more if possible. Am I looking at a medium-heavy cut cleaner on the hood and a fine on the rest of the body?


    Last edited by RiceKill; Jun 11, 2005, 11:46 AM.

  • #2
    I assume you are working by hand?

    First, look around for a clay. Meguiars Quick Clay is good, though people often use Mothers Clay if it is in the store near you. Go over your Jeep well with that first.

    Then, the best thing to do would be to get a tube of ScratchX, and go over the jeep with that. It will take some elbow grease, but will be much better than buying a cheap buffer and making it worse. You may want to do a bit of the Jeep one week, and a bit more the next.

    Follow up the ScratchX with some Polish, like DC#2, and then a wax like Nxt wax, or DC#3, Gold Class etc.

    Also, remember to use a good quiality wash, like Gold Class or Nxt wash.

    You should be able to wash, clay the whole Jeep, then Scratch X 1/2, or 1/3 of the Jeep, or whatever, then polish and Wax that portion. ScratchXing a whole car in one day *****. Clay/clean/polish/wax part one day, then the rest the next.

    If you wanted to buy something like the PC, then #83 could be substitued for the cleaner and polish.

    Also, the Gold Class Trim Detailer could be handy for your black bumper molding, and other plastic trim.
    Last edited by Murr1525; Jun 11, 2005, 07:06 PM.
    2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue

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    • #3
      Just to add to what Murr1525 said.....

      It might pay you to use a piece of terry cloth to apply the ScratchX with, as this will give it more bite, and possibly cut you cleaning time.

      Here's a restoration Mike P. did to a Ford Bronco.......It was all done by hand.

      Mike used ColorX on the Bronco, but it's not as strong as S/X.
      r. b.

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      • #4
        Thanks, I have some Scratch-X around, so I'll give that a shot.

        One more question though, what is a PC and why is it differant than any other buffer?

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        • #5
          Originally posted by RiceKill
          One more question though, what is a PC and why is it differant than any other buffer?
          This is a (P)orter (C)able pictured below.....



          It has the same orbital action as the cheaper buffers that you find in Wal-Mart, K-Mart, etc., but it's a well built, professonal type of machine. It can really make a big difference when you're trying to remove oxidation, such as yours.

          Do a search on "dual action polisher", G-100A, or Porter Cable and you will find a wealth of knowledge about how easy it is to use it.

          Here's a link to a forum that can help you understand the PC better.
          r. b.

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