What products do I need?

[mr._bowtie]

Mike...


I think that as long as your account has some activity at a site like cardomain then the pics will stay up, but if the account goes unactive for a long period of time then it may get deleted. I tried hosting them onto this site but for some reason they were loading?? Ill try it again later.


Bob... Yeah this is my 3rd f body car. Ive loved all three. But I aspire to be a vette owner Ive had a thing for those cars since I knew what a car was lol. To me they are the ultimate bang for the buck. And thanks for the compliment on the TA!! I drove 550 miles to buy this car, low miles and this color... She was perfect

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by mr._bowtie
Mike...


I think that as long as your account has some activity at a site like cardomain then the pics will stay up, but if the account goes inactive for a long period of time then it may get deleted. I tried hosting them onto this site but for some reason they were loading?? Ill try it again later.

Last Sunday, the servers that Meguiar's Online are hosted on suffered a meltdown. After being brought back up, our photo gallery hasn't been working. I'm told David Bynon is aware of the problem and will try to fix it asap.

Sorry about that. Thanks for the information on CarDomain.

[mr._bowtie]

Well my question now has changed slightly, since my dad did go ahead and buy the polisher then what should I use on my Trans Am? The paint on that car is in really good shape as is but it could be better. I was going to do it by hand but now that I have the polisher I plan on using it lol. I was going to use scrathX, Deep Crystal Polish, and then #21/NXT, but I was also going to apply it by hand. What products whould I be using now? Are the same ones ok to use with the polisher or should I go a diferrent route? I also have vinyl racing stripes on my car, I dont plan on hitting those with the polisher I thought that the polisher might lift the edges and dull the stripes if I used it. Am I right with on that assumption?

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by mr._bowtie
I was going to use ScratchX, Deep Crystal Polish, and then #21/NXT, but I was also going to apply it by hand. What products would I be using now? Are the same ones ok to use with the polisher or should I go a different route?

You'll want to get some M80 Speed Glaze for a cleaner/polish instead of the ScratchX. You can use the Deep Crystal Polish, M21 and NXT however.

I also have vinyl racing stripes on my car, I don't plan on hitting those with the polisher I thought that the polisher might lift the edges and dull the stripes if I used it. Am I right with on that assumption?

In most cases, you want to avoid vinyl graphics for the reasons you stated.

[Mike Phillips]

Tips & Techniques for using the G-100a to remove swirls and other paint defects.

Products Used
Quik Clay System
G-100a
W-8006 foam polishing pad
W-9006 foam finishing pad
#83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish
#80 Speed Glaze
Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax
Ultimate Wipe
Ultimate Bonnet

First wash the car thoroughly. Pay special attention to loosening and removing any dirt particles from cracks and crevices to prevent these dirt particles from being introduced onto the surface during the polishing process. After washing and drying, inspect the surface both visually for below surface defects and with the palm of your clean hand for above surface defects.

If you feel any tiny little bumps still attached to the finish after washing, proceed to clay the paint to safely remove these contaminants. After claying each panel, wipe the panel down with a quick detailer to remove any residue.

Using Painters Tape, tape-off any plastic trim or components that you don not want to get product onto and also tape-off any edges, high points or areas with known thin paint.



Your car may not look like the below car, but the taped-off areas should...




Applying #83 Dual Action Cleaner/Polish with the G-100

• Speed Setting - 4.0 to 5.0
• Arm Speed - Slow Arm Speed
• Pressure - 3-5 pounds of pressure
• Work Area - Work a small area at a time, about 1 to 2 feet square
• Overlapping motions - Overlap each pass by 50%, move the polisher using different patterns
• Time - Work the product until the diminishing abrasives have broken down, but you haven't gone completely to a dry buff.
• Amount of product - Don't overuse product, use enough to lay down a film in the area you are working

When using the G100 Dual Action Polisher to remove defects, (This is different then merely applying a polish or a wax because you're trying to remove paint), you need to use a slow arm speed and overlap you passes by 50%. You also want to go in at least two different directions, for example, from where you're standing, side to side, then front to back. You can also move the polisher in a kitty/corner fashion for complete, thorough and uniform cleaning action.

Only work a small area at a time, this will vary according to the shape, curve or body line of the panel you are polishing but for example on a large flat panel, you want to stay around a 12" to 18" squared area. The point being, don't try to work to large of an area all at once or you won't remove the defects equally everywhere.

When you move on to a new section, overlap into the old section for a uniform end results.

When it comes time for applying a pure polish, or a wax, (besides cleaner/waxes like ColorX if you're doing a one-step), the you can polish larger areas and spend less time, i.e. use less passes.

The point of the cleaning step is to remove the defects. Because the G100's polishing action is gentle and therefore safe, it takes time to remove small particles of paint in an effort to remove a defect.

If the below image represents swirls and scratches evenly distributed throughout your car's finish,



Then you can see that in order to remove the defects you need to remove the highest areas of the surface until they are level with the lowest depths of the deepest scratches. In essence, you must remove paint.


Applying #80 Speed Glaze with the G-100

• Speed Setting - 4.0 to 5.0
• Arm Speed - Medium Arm Speed
• Pressure - 3-5 pounds of pressure
• Work Area - You can work a larger area than what you do with the #83 DACP
• Time - Work the product until the diminishing abrasives have broken down, but you haven't gone completely to a dry buff.
• Amount of product - Don't overuse product, use enough to lay down a film in the area you are working. Speed Glaze is rich in polishing oils a little bit goes a long ways

Applying NXT Tech Wax with the G-100

• Speed Setting - 3.0 to 4.0
• Arm Speed - Medium Arm Speed
• Pressure - Light pressure - More than the weight of the machine, you want to engage the foam pad with the surface, not just float over it
• Work Area - You can work panel by panel, for example, apply to one half of the hood, then walk to the other side of the car and apply to the other half of the hood. Apply to fender all at once, door, deck lid, etc.
• Time - Work the product long enough to make two passes over the finish then move on
• Amount of product - Don't overuse product, use enough to lay down a film in the area you are working

Removing Polish or Wax with an Ultimate Bonnet on the G-100

• Speed Setting - 4.0 to 5.0
• Arm Speed - Medium Arm Speed
• Pressure - 3-5 pounds of pressure
• Work Area - You can work panel by panel, for example, apply to one half of the hood, then walk to the other side of the car and apply to the other half of the hood. Apply to fender all at once, door, deck lid, etc.
• Time - Work the area until the bonnet has removed the wax

[mr._bowtie]

Awsome!! I have M80 already so I wont have to get any of that. Ill just go ahead use the other products along with it. Once again Mike to the rescue!

[mr._bowtie]

Will the DCP#2 still be necesary after the #80? Or is it just a wait and see how the finish looks after I donw with 80?