Best Care for New Car?

[Cubsfan]

Hi All,

OK, just got a brand new Nissan Altima, which is Smoke (basically a metallic dark grey).

Anyway, what's the best way to treat this car?

I've used Deep Crystal System in the past, and have had good luck with it. Still a good idea for this car? Or should I substitute this NXT wax for the third step in the system?

Also, I unfortunately have a few scratches and scuffs on the car (stupid dealers!). I'm hoping that the scuffs will come out during the DCS treatment, but what about Scratch-X for the paint? It looks like scratch-X basically wears down the paint so that it's all at the same level, but is there any danger in doing this? (danger that I'd go too far, danger to the clear coat, etc...)

I finally have a car that I'm want to keep looking great again, so I'd like to know the best way to do that!

I'll be doing this all by hand, if that makes any difference.

Also, I'm guessing it's safe to wax a brand new (1 week) car, right?

Thanks for all the help!

[alanceperson]

hey cub you got pics of scuffs?

[Cubsfan]

Here's an idea of what the scuffs look like (sorry, not the best photographer!)

[Tim Lingor]

Hey Cubsfan


Welcome to Meguiar's Online!

First step would be to clay the entire car using Meguiar's Quik Clay System. This will remove any bonded contaminents on the paint's surface.

To remove the marring in the picture, I would suggest using Meg's ScratchX. The only way to remove the marring is to level the paint around the marring. So while the ScratchX can remove most, if not all, of the marring, it is a mild product compared to other cleaners and or compounds. Here is a link showing the proper application of ScratchX:

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1516

After using the ScratchX on the marring, I would suggest cleaning/polishing the entire car with #9 Swirl Remover. Meg's #9 will gently clean the paint but also adds a richness to the paint, especially on darker colors!

Finally, top the entire car with 2 coats of NXT Tech Wax. Meg's NXT looks awesome on dark grey metallics!!!


Tim

[Cubsfan]

A quick question about Scratch-X.

As I understand it, basically a scratch is looks something like this:


--------- ----------------
---------\/--------------- clear coat
---------------------------
--------------------------- paint
---------------------------

Where the scratch/mark can be only through the clear coat, or all the way through to the paint, right?

So from what I understand about scratch-x, it basically removes the paint around the scratch so that it's a level surface, with a gentle slope back up the the original surface around. Does that sound right?

Ok, so my questions given this is right:

1) If I'm taking off additional clear coat/paint, is that bad for the surface overall (although it looks better)

2) What if I happened to get another scratch in the same area? Since I've now taken off paint, is there a better chance that an additional scratch goes clear through to the body?

Sorry if I sound like I"m being over-critical here. Just want to make sure I know what I'm doing before I do it

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by Cubsfan
A quick question about Scratch-X.

As I understand it, basically a scratch is looks something like this:


--------- ----------------
---------\/--------------- clear coat
---------------------------
--------------------------- paint
---------------------------

Where the scratch/mark can be only through the clear coat, or all the way through to the paint, right?

Hi Cubsfan,

Here's diagram of scratches paint, the last one on the left is too deep to remove.

So from what I understand about scratch-x, it basically removes the paint around the scratch so that it's a level surface, with a gentle slope back up the the original surface around. Does that sound right?

Yes. Remember however it is a very gentle and safe paint cleaner. It's not alike an old fashioned rubbing compound where you can feel the grit. If you feel some ScratchX between your fingers, it will feel like skin lotion. The diminishing abrasives are microscopic in size and pulverize as you work them against the finish.

Ok, so my questions given this is right:

1) If I'm taking off additional clear coat/paint, is that bad for the surface overall (although it looks better)

For light, or shallow scratches the answer is no. Car manufactures apply enough paint to allow for future maintenance like removing scratches. Light swirls and scratches are okay to remove, deeper defects should be improved, but not completely removed.

2) What if I happened to get another scratch in the same area? Since I've now taken off paint, is there a better chance that an additional scratch goes clear through to the body?

Sorry if I sound like I"m being over-critical here. Just want to make sure I know what I'm doing before I do it

You've pegged the problem. Because you have a limited amount of paint thickness, or film-build, thus you can only remove so many defects in any one area so many times.

Just so you know however, most, (not all but most), modern factory catalyzed clear coats are hard enough that you with your hand, a wax applicator and a tube of ScratchX are up against a fairly formidable foe when it comes to removing paint.

Just this last Saturday, I had two black cars, a Porsche and a Mercedes-Benz upon which I demonstrated how to remove scratches by hand using ScratchX. I applied three applications to each car, worked each application in very well, as in I put a little passion behind the pad, while there was a dramatic improvement in the overall finish, many of the swirls and scratches were still present. This was a strong indicator of how hard the paint was because if it were soft, after three well-worked in applications of ScratchX, the scratches would have been gone because we would have removed enough paint to level the surface. Because the paint was so hard, we could not remove paint easily, and thus it was difficult to level the surface and remove the scratches.

When it comes to removing defects by hand, the two most important factors that will determine your success when using ScratchX will be your technique, and the hardness or softness of the paint.

And this is key, you won't know what you can do until you try. Or in other words, you won't know if the paint is hard or soft until you try. Of course this assumes you're using good technique for applying the ScratchX. If after three applications, worked in well to a small area, (about 8" square), you don't appear to be removing the scratches, then chances are it will require a machine applied product from our Professional Line.

[Cubsfan]

Originally posted by Mike Phillips
Here's diagram of scratches paint, the last one on the left is too deep to remove.

Thanks for the diagram! My ASCII-drawning wasn't so good

Just so you know however, most, (not all but most), modern factory catalyzed clear coats are hard enough that you with your hand, a wax applicator and a tube of ScratchX are up against a fairly formidable foe when it comes to removing paint.

Maybe a stupid question, but with my car being quite new, is it ok to use it now? (I've read on this site that new cars are fine to wax, but not sure about Scratch-X). My Altima is about a week old (from the dealer, so really a little older than that).

[Tim Lingor]

Hey,

There is no problem at all using Meguiar's ScratchX on a new car!!

Tim

[Murr1525]

Just to add in, as you know,fresh paint needs time to cure, which means it needs to be exposed to the air for a while. Putting a wax, or other sealer over the paint would then be a problem. ScratchX does not leave any sealant, or coating behind.

Also, new car paint is not 'fresh'. It was painted some time before you recieved it, and was also baked on at the factory, to speed up the cure time. It is usualy body shop paint jobs that need the cure time.