I need help using the DACP. I have a orbital with the yellow pads. How do I use DACP correctly? Put lots of DACP?
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Re: Help with DACP
Originally posted by Schmohey
I need using the DACP. I have a orbital with the yellow pads. How do I use DACP correctly? Put lots of DACP?
someone please correct me if i am wrong, i do not use that much product when using DACP, because as i understand it, the product breaks down and thus works better, so hte less you use, the better it will work.2001 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4
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#83 is a great product. However, the key to success when using it is to ensure that the diminishing abbrasives have broken down completely to prevent hazing or marring. Unfortunately, an orbital buffer is not the optimal tool for application. #83 needs the speed and heat produced by either the G-100 or rotary buffer to breakdown completely without leaving excessive marring.
It's also important to remember that you should start with the least aggressive method first. If you have #80 (Speed Glaze), you may want to start with a couple applications of that. This product will yield better results via orbital buffer and may be able to tackle the imperfections without the need of the more aggressive approach with #83. Hope this helps.
P.S. When I am using the G-100/PC I initially apply an "X" on the pad of #83 or #80. This primes the pad, all subsequent applications will receive a bead of product about 3.5 to 4" long. This seems to be the right amount for me.
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Re: Help with DACP
Originally posted by Schmohey
I need help using the DACP. I have a orbital with the yellow pads. How do I use DACP correctly? Put lots of DACP?
or this...
If it's an old fashioned orbital buffer, then as Travis said, it's really not an effective tool for this product. If you have a dual action polisher, then M83 works very well for removing defects.
You'll want to set your variable speed setting at 4.5 to 5.0 and then apply some product in an X pattern on the foam pad, or in a circle around the outside edges of the pad, either way will work.
A couple of notes...
Don't turn the polisher on until it's in direct contact with the finish and also don't lift the polisher off the finish until you've turned it off or you will splatter product everywhere.
For removing defects, only work a small section at a time, lay out a microfiber polishing cloth flat and work an area about this size, maybe a little larger. When you're finished with that area, move over to new territory but be sure to overlap into the previous area. Remove any leftover residue with a clean wiping cloth as you go. Cleaner/polishes like M83 do not need dry before removing.
Place about 4-5 pounds of pressure on the head of the unit when operating, check this on any bathroom scale with your hand to get an idea of how much pressure this is.
Use a slow arm speed, that means move the polisher slowly over the finish while overlapping each pass by 50% Take your time, the cleaning, or prep step is the most important step, if you don't remove the defects during this process, they will still be there after you wipe off your last coat of wax.
For most people, once they have buffed out the entire hood of a car, they will have learned most of the skill necessary to buff out
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