Can a detailer fix these paint runs?

[atikovi]

Or a bodyshop? There is some tool they use to shave down the bumps and then buff.

[Jarhead0754]

Is it clear coat or melted plastic? Either way I'm pretty sure it needs to go to the body shop but dont quote me on it.

[stephensdetail]

Re: Can a detailer fix these paint runs?

Body shop is just gonna wet sand it and buff it out

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Can a detailer fix these paint runs?

If those runs are in clear only, then it should be fairly straightforward for a highly skilled detailer (ie, one who wet sands on a very regular basis, not the guy who says he'll do the whole car inside and out for $119.95) to remove that. If, on the other hand, the runs are in the color and there is clear over the run, then taking everything down level will expose the color coat underneath and you're going to have problems. The real trick is telling the difference.

We have to ask, though - how did these come about? Were the areas resprayed at a body shop? If so, they need to stand behind their work and redo the job. Did it come from the factory like this? If so, get back to your dealer ASAP and have it fixed under warranty. If you purchased the vehicle used and these runs were present, then you're kinda stuck. If you did this yourself, you're still stuck. If stuck..... your best bet is to go talk to a body shop about repairing this, which likely will mean sanding the panels and respraying.

[tomsteve]

Re: Can a detailer fix these paint runs?

A body shop can fix anything for a price.
IF that is clearcoat from a repair that isn't covered by the place that repaired it, what I'd do is first run some tape along the edges as when it gets to the sanding step, it's very easy to break though clearcoat on edges. Also tape off about an inch or so past the runs all the way around.Then I'd apply a coat of glazing putty over the runs extending past about and inch. Keep it a thin coat- just enough so the high spots show through.
after that's cured, time to start block sanding. I'd use a small wooden block and maybe even a durablock as a backer for the sandpaper( what i use as a backer all depends on contour of surface). start with 800 grit wet. What the glazing putty does is make it so only the high spots of the clear are being sanded. Must be careful to keep the sanding only on the high spots and filler. Make ten or so strokes in this direction: //////// then ten or so in this direction: \\\\\\\\\\\\. Check progress.
as I got closer to being flat I'd change to 1000 grit and go until the glazing putty is gone.then pull the tape and sand with some 1500 being very careful the complete time and watching progress.
Then time for buffing with m105 followed my 205.

Ive had to do this on repaints I've done( imma hobbiest painter) and a few details of repainted vehicles I've detailed and the process has worked great. Before using the glazing putty I ended up with a wave in the clear after sanding down runs.The glazing putty helps eliminate that.
However, I don't suggest doing it if not familiar with repairs like this. Very easy to mess up and break through clearcoat, which I've done and ended up reclearing a truck bed side.
Tools to shave that down:
There are run remover tools. I haven't had any luck using them so stick with sanding.