Making Sure I Am Thinking Correctly

[VicodinDream]

My car is. 2015 Dodge Dart. Bright White. I believe its a metallic paint. The dealer threw on a free Xzylon sealant. I figured free is free, and for winter it saves me some time. I am thinking the best way to take care of this is using the 5 step program. But the wax is where i am slightly hung up. I am thinking Carnuba Plus. If i am right it wont erode a sealant, and will look good on that white. Any suggestions?

[Murr1525]

If you are thinking of doing 5 steps, or something with cleaning steps, it well likely remove the sealant anyway.

As far as choices, gold class wax or ultimate wax would be fine and look great.

Or the new 365 wax for best durability, maybe touch less looks.

With the car being new, just something like clay then ColorX or White wax may be all you need before wax.

[VicodinDream]

So i am not far off. I think i will baby the sealant through winter and add a top coat of wax and clean it real good first. Then deal with the rest when its warm out. I have used the Gold Class Carnuba Plus before but was not shure how it would go with white. Sounds like i now have a plan.

[Eldorado2k]

The Gold Class Carnuba Wax won't degrade it, that's for sure.

Does it bead like crazy at the moment?

[The Guz]

Re: Making Sure I Am Thinking Correctly

I agree with Murr. A full 5 step or a polish or even a cleaner wax will remove the dealer applied sealant. A dedicated wax (for example Gold Class) or a dedicated sealant (NXT, Ultimate Wax, M21) will not remove or degrade the dealer applied sealant.

You could also just pick up some ultimate quik wax and use that until it's time for you to polish the car again.

How long ago was the sealant applied?

[Murr1525]

Re: Making Sure I Am Thinking Correctly

Yeah, Ult. Quick Wax is great for after washes to keep boosting the current wax/sealant.

[VicodinDream]

It beads good. The shine on it could be better. I got some of the Gold class. Paste and liquid. I figured paste will be easier to apply on the rocker panels behind the door. I call it the door sill. Crud cakes up there bad. I am going to get the spray wax tomorrow. It was out of stock. I just want to make this Dart look good. Thank you very much.

I have another question. This one posed to me by a coworker and i noticed it around the door sill. His is on a civic. On the white paint somtimes rust appears on top of the paint. Anyone seen this before and know how to fix it? I am working on getting pictures.

[Murr1525]

Re: Making Sure I Am Thinking Correctly

Hmm.. liquid shouldnt be applied so thick it is running. Shouldnt be seeing a lot of excess once it is dry. Perhaps someone can pull up a picture for reference.

Yeah, cars get some iron/rust dust on them... can be from brake dust, industrial fallout, rail shipping... etc. Usually see it all over, not just on the sills... but never know. Easier to see on white of course.

Clay can help with that, and doing a pre-wash with something like IronX or TRIX. And that would be pre-wash before detailing, not before regular washes.

[The Guz]

Re: Making Sure I Am Thinking Correctly

Yeah Murr covered it on those contaminants. Remember you want to apply a thin coat. The days of thick coats are long gone. Thin is in.

[Jarhead0754]

Now I understand trix and iron x and tar x. But do u think its better to go with the 2 individual vs the trix combo for stronger results. Obviously u can achieve the same results but depending on what ur working on do u think its just better to go at each product 1 at a time? Don't know if I'm making sense here.

[Murr1525]

Generally, yes.

For paint, I think trix can do the rust if mild. For wheels, may need the ironX.

For a tar problem, I have had better results from TarX.

[VicodinDream]

Re: Making Sure I Am Thinking Correctly

This is the spots that I see. They are on the rear doors, inside the door on the rocker panel. I figured at first it was weld spatter that did not get cleaned off during assembly.