Waxing using buffer/polisher machine?

[Daniel Kinder]

Re: Waxing using buffer/polisher machine?

Hey Pashi you've got the OCD bug!

Eldorado's right 2) 80 gram bars comes in the smooth surface clay kit, What I would do is go get you 2 of them plastic overnight soap dishes that shuts and write rims/ glass or what ever your going to use the other piece's of clay for, (you don't want to contaminant them, so have each bar for a certain purpose) So with the 2 clay bars I would use one for just paint and take the other and cut in half, use one for just glass & the other half piece for rims only, basically what I do. Now you should get about 4 or 5 vehicles out of one clay bar on average but depends on the condition like if your around a bunch of trees or factories train track then you may only get a couple uses out of it (if you don't drop it/ and in that case do throw it away, if your like me and the rest of us OCD guys being so careful trying not to put any scratches or swirls in your paint,glass or chrome don't take a chance, clay is less then $10..00 or so a bar, it's not worth it to try to save it and do major damage to your paint)

I'm pretty sure you already know to flatten it out into a patty or waffer shape and spray alittle lube on it and the surface being clayed and when it gets contaminanted you just kneed it into itself to get a fresh piece of clay. When you finish with the clay you can put away into a zip lock baggie and add a couple spray's of detailer in the bag with the clay and seal it up until the next use.

What I do and about everyone else is after each wash and fully dried I run my clean hand/finger tips over the horizontal surfaces (you can also use a sandwhich bag to give a better sense of touch) and check for any above surface bonded contaminants. If you feel any then clay that area or section but remember if you had to clay and wasn't going to apply wax then you need to apply in the spot you just clayed, because it will remove your protectants.

Also to help you out alittle you only need to clay the whole vehicle when your doing a full paint correction or complete detail, usually twice a year and the rest of the time you should only need to do the horizontal surface but you know your area and your enviroment better so do check the verticle surface regularly anyways.

And just in case you do drop the clay I would try to have extra's on hand! because if your like me and don't have an extra bar you will drop it!

Hope I've helped and remember we need pics of your detail and what you removed from your paints surfaces with your clay!

[Pashi266]

Re: Waxing using buffer/polisher machine?

Also to help you out alittle you only need to clay the whole vehicle when your doing a full paint correction or complete detail, usually twice a year and the rest of the time you should only need to do the horizontal surface but you know your area and your enviroment better so do check the verticle surface regularly anyways.

Thanks to you and Eldorado
But, I didn't understand you mean by clay horizontal surface and vertical surface regularly. You mean hood, trunk and top are horizontal and doors are vertical? and why does it different for those parts?

Sure I will posts my pics, but remember I'm a newbie you guys have to bare with my detailing and give suggestions

[Eldorado2k]

Yup, that's exactly right.^ The horizontal parts are the hood, roof & trunk. Vertical would be the sides of the car. The reason the horizontal parts tend to have more build up is because of the constant direct wind while driving.. The sides tend to have alot less build up of contaniments.
That brings up the idea of whether it might be better to do the sides of the car first? But If you're anything like me [and most others I'd think] the very 1st part you wanna work on is the hood? It's your choice! But for me, the hood is almost like that 1st Christmas present you've been waiting so long to finally open:p lol.

[Daniel Kinder]

Re: Waxing using buffer/polisher machine?

Thanks to you and Eldorado
But, I didn't understand you mean by clay horizontal surface and vertical surface regularly. You mean hood, trunk and top are horizontal and doors are vertical? and why does it different for those parts?

Sure I will posts my pics, but remember I'm a newbie you guys have to bare with my detailing and give suggestions

Hey your right Pashi

Contaminants are more likely to inbead into the horizontal surfaces (Hood/Trunk/Roof >all flat surfaces) So you shouldn't need to clay the verticle surfaces (Door's/Fender's/Rear Quarter's) nearly as often, and speed's up your claying/cleaning process.

As I stated you know your area and condition's better then I do so that's why I said to check these area's after you've washed and dried with your clean hand/finger tips and/or use the baggie test.

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?44773-The-Baggie-Test-How-to-inspect-for-above-surface-bonded-contaminants&highlight=

Give this a read.

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?7494-How-often-do-I-need-to-clay-my-car&highlight=baggie+test

[Eldorado2k]

Btw don't be discouraged if you're not "wow" after just the 1st step [claying] Keep in mind that the main purpose of claying is to remove contaminents you can't really even see.. But what Is greatly satisfying about it is how your car will be left as smooth as glass because of it. Then finally Perfect glass smoothness once polish/wax is done.
I did the 4 steps on my car about a month ago and doing the baggy test after my carwash 2 days ago and feeling nothing but smoothness is one of the great rewards for all this fun "work" we do!

When doing a baggy test to feel your paint, you can do a zip lock bag or a plastic bag they sack your groceries in. I find the thin grocery bags give the better feel for it. And dont slide/move the bag across the paint. Only move your fingers in the bag to feel the paint.

[synesthesia]

Re: Waxing using buffer/polisher machine?

Good job on taking care of your VW. Take care of the paint reguarly because the VW's clear coat seem to be not as durable as other car brands. I just sold my Pasat last month that I received from my sister. Her husband would wash the Passat occasionally; and rarely protect its paint. The clear coat became brittle and dull. I think the painters in Brazil rush these massed produced cars. The base coat is good; however, the clear coat seems like there was a short duration for cure time. Just make sure you protect the paint and it will continue to look good. Congrats on your new car.

[Pashi266]

Re: Waxing using buffer/polisher machine?

Good job on taking care of your VW. Take care of the paint reguarly because the VW's clear coat seem to be not as durable as other car brands. I just sold my Pasat last month that I received from my sister. Her husband would wash the Passat occasionally; and rarely protect its paint. The clear coat became brittle and dull. I think the painters in Brazil rush these massed produced cars. The base coat is good; however, the clear coat seems like there was a short duration for cure time. Just make sure you protect the paint and it will continue to look good. Congrats on your new car.

Thanks
but its funny you brought up paint here, I was about to ask the question regarding VW clear coat
I red somewhere in this forum like hard paint (Pontiac cars) and other paint. What does that mean exactly? I mean if it is hard paint we need to put more pressure while polishing & waxing? or clear coat has more depth in it?
VW is giving 12 yrs or unlimited mileage guarantee on paint or body corrosion. so VW comes under hard paint or other category?

[synesthesia]

Re: Waxing using buffer/polisher machine?

Wow that's a new one on me. I guess VW's finally getting the message from its owners. Twelve year warranty is awesome. Anyway, yes hard clearcoat needs more work to get it to its corrective state if you want a flawless show car shine. I noticed my M5 paint needs more pressure than my Lexus. But then again it depends on the condition of each car's paint.

[Daniel Kinder]

Re: Waxing using buffer/polisher machine?

Hey Pashi

The best way to know if you have a hard clear or not is to do a little test for yourself. And the first thing I'm going to say is get you a tube of scratchX (if you don't already have it, you should, great product to have in your arsenal) and do a test spot about a 16''X16'' area and make about 4 or 5 cover passes, work product until somewhat clear, wipe and check your progress. After removal if any progress is made then it's safe to say it's not all that hard.

Since Meguiars discontinued the old version which had DAT where has the new ScratchX contains SMAT and is pretty aggressive itself just under Ultimate Compound in the consumer product line.

Here's a great article and will help you out alittle better to under stand product aggressiveness and which to grab when doing a test spot for least aggressive product to get the job done.

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?40514-The-Aggressiveness-Order-of-SMAT-Products-This-might-surprise-you!&highlight=aggressiveness+order+for+new+consumer+products

[Pashi266]

Re: Waxing using buffer/polisher machine?

Hey Pashi

The best way to know if you have a hard clear or not is to do a little test for yourself. And the first thing I'm going to say is get you a tube of scratchX (if you don't already have it, you should, great product to have in your arsenal) and do a test spot about a 16''X16'' area and make about 4 or 5 cover passes, work product until somewhat clear, wipe and check your progress. After removal if any progress is made then it's safe to say it's not all that hard.

Since Meguiars discontinued the old version which had DAT where has the new ScratchX contains SMAT and is pretty aggressive itself just under Ultimate Compound in the consumer product line.

Here's a great article and will help you out alittle better to under stand product aggressiveness and which to grab when doing a test spot for least aggressive product to get the job done.
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...sumer+products

Thanks Stang for the link. I don't want to ask more about these products, but why the UP is not listed here? it doesn't comes under SMAT category?
Since my car is new and I don't think it has a deeper swirls and scratches and I red that UP is good for fine swirls and give ultimate shine. so I bought only UP

[Daniel Kinder]

Re: Waxing using buffer/polisher machine?

Thanks Stang for the link. I don't want to ask more about these products, but why the UP is not listed here? it doesn't comes under SMAT category?
Since my car is new and I don't think it has a deeper swirls and scratches and I red that UP is good for fine swirls and give ultimate shine. so I bought only UP

I really don't know why it's not in the list but should be before M205 but not being as aggressive for the fact that M205 can be used with a rotary and Ultimate Polish(UP) is intended for hand and/or DA , I've searched about Ultimate Polish and it's just not talked about like M205 is. The fact of the matter is that it's derived from M205 with the same SMAT, but the difference being M205 is formulated for body shops and Ultimate Polish is the consumer line. I've even skiped on it and got the M205 but will be picking up a bottle pretty soon.