This dodge charger is charcoal gray. It has old water spots, like maybe it sat in a timed sprinkler everyday. We tried the pink compound that comes with the MF System, 3M compound, clay rag with hardly any change. It's only a dealer car but I always do my best, so I don't lose my account. Any recommendations?
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waterspot removal
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Re: waterspot removal
You tried MF pads?
They might be etched in below the surface..Originally posted by BluelineI own a silver vehicle and a black vehicle owns me. The black one demands attention, washing, detailing, waxing and an occasional dinner out at a nice restaurant. The silver one demands nothing and it looks just fine. I think the black vehicle is taking advantage of me, and the silver car is more my style. We can go out for a drive without her makeup and she looks fine. If I want to take the black one out, it is three or four hours in the "bathroom" to get ready.
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Re: waterspot removal
How about giving water spot remover a try.
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Re: waterspot removal
Originally posted by Pure Luxury View PostThe only thing I hadn't tried is the UC. Guess what I'm buying today?
The D300, MF Correction Compound should do the trick.
I dont know your exact process but this is where i would begin.
PRIME the pad fully. make it completely PINK. the DMC5 [Megs cutting microfiber pad] will hold a LOT of product, but its important to get all of those MF strands coated so they are activated for battle. Those microfiber strands need to be primed or they will just soak up the small amount of product you use and then you will be dry buffing, which means little to no progress.
After priming i would blow it out with compressed air, to alleviate any extra product.. Yes this seems strange but you dont want too much product in there gumming the pad up. The reason for the blow out is to ensure UNIFORM priming of the pad. If you dont have air i would run the primed pad over the section quickly then clean the section and then run a pad brush over the face of the primed pad 2-3 times vertically then 2-3 times horizontally, working all of the product uniformly over the pads surface.
Then i would put 3 pea sized drops onto the pad to use in order to actually work the section.
Section work: [no bigger than 24"x24"] I think a good place would be medium pressure with 4 secion passes, alternating horizontally then moving into vertical passes. Move the buffer in as completely level a motion you can manage slowly over the section, allowing the buffer, pad, compound to work the surface.
If that's not enough oomph for you, then you can gradually increase the pressure and number of passes up to 6.
Just remember its IMPERATIVE that the backing plate is moving and a uniform pace throughout the process, thats key to the dual action process and something thats often overlooked.
I think you should see an improvement with this.. i honestly think the proper priming, coupled with speed and pressure will work for you.
**** ALWAYS make sure to clean the pad out after each completed section. You want to keep the microfiber strands clean so they can pick up removed particles, allowing the pad to keep its maximum cutting power high.
Please let us know how it woks out.
if i missed anything, the buff master extraordinaire, Senior Stoops will hopefully chime in
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