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cleaner wax question

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  • cleaner wax question

    So I washed, clay bar and ultimate waxed (1 coat) my car last weekend. I need to wash my car again and I bought some cleaner wax to try and make some minor scratches a little less visible( I know it won't remove them completely). Should I clay bar again or is that not necessary. I plan on using the cleaner wax(unless someone talks me out of it) and then rewaxing over the cleaner wax with gold class. I just don't know if I need to remove the ultimate wax.

  • #2
    Re: cleaner wax question

    - You wont need to clay, unless you really got splashed/sprayed by something. If the paint feels smooth still, then no need ot re-clay.

    - You dont need to remove the Ult. Wax first... however I dont think that you will get any real benefit. The Cleaner/Wax is very mild, and is not going to really remove defects, esp by hand, on most paints. I think you would be wasting your time... probably want to return for a different product. And see if you want to work by hand or machine...
    2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue

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    • #3
      Re: cleaner wax question

      Originally posted by yankees2452 View Post
      So I washed, clay bar and ultimate waxed (1 coat) my car last weekend. I need to wash my car again and I bought some cleaner wax to try and make some minor scratches a little less visible( I know it won't remove them completely). Should I clay bar again or is that not necessary. I plan on using the cleaner wax(unless someone talks me out of it) and then rewaxing over the cleaner wax with gold class. I just don't know if I need to remove the ultimate wax.
      No need to clay again.
      Cleaner wax will do the removing of the Ultimate Wax for you.

      About cleaner wax. It may remove slight swirls but don't expect big changes. I use it mainly when a customer doesn't want to pay for a polish but needs a wax. It is kinda like a 2 in 1 product but does neither amazingly.
      How are you working by hand or do you have a DA? To compound or polish a car by hand, then wax by hand is somewhat a large and tiring undertaking. I suggest, unless you really want to use a polish or compound, that you just follow through with the cleaner wax. Check your result and if you need to do more we are all here to help. Also you don't NEED to top the cleaner wax with anything. But if you want to no harm. I am a big over waxer myself, but I enjoy doing it and using various product.

      Thinking about it more you can instead of using a cleaner wax just use UP (ultimate polish) then follow up with a single coat of wax. Technically the same amount of work on the car and you may see more results. If you have the energy you can use UC (ultimate compound), then UP, then wax.

      Someone will likely post up and write this in a much better manner than I did and post a link for you.

      Think about it even more...check out Meguiars Black wax and White wax. These combine polishing, cleaning, and waxing in one step and many of us have great great great results. (AND THEY ARE REALLY INEXPENSIVE TOO!!!!)

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      • #4
        Re: cleaner wax question

        Murr beat me to it

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        • #5
          Thanks for your help, I work by hand btw. Is ultimate polish more aggressive than the cleaner wax?

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          • #6
            Would ultimate compound be better if working by hand or is ultimate polish the way to go, the car is black will a decent amount of swirls and some minor scratches

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            • #7
              Re: cleaner wax question

              Black paint can be soft, but without working on it, it is a bit of a guess. Though by hand, yeah, I would want to try UC.
              2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue

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              • #8
                Re: cleaner wax question

                Originally posted by Murr1525 View Post
                Black paint can be soft, but without working on it, it is a bit of a guess. Though by hand, yeah, I would want to try UC.
                UC can create more smaller swirls or hazing of the paint, so often it is followed by UP (or other polish) before waxing. Also working by hand these will require a ton of mechanical work. Not like wax that you apply by lightly swirling these will require adequate pressure and movement to do the corrections you want. That is why doing this by hand is going to be tiring. Watch as many videos as you can and read all product instructions before starting. There is a ton of work ahead of you. But it is completely doable and I really want to see your results.

                But honestly give Black Wax a try before you do the other stuff. It is like $10-$12 and Please Wash Me Detailing and other people like myself have posted exceptional results using it. This may be all you need, and your arms will thank you.

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                • #9
                  Re: cleaner wax question

                  Originally posted by Murr1525 View Post
                  Black paint can be soft, but without working on it, it is a bit of a guess. Though by hand, yeah, I would want to try UC.
                  How can one make such a general statement about black paint? A black car from GM for example will have the same level of "hardness" as a red car from GM, as both use the same clearcoat. It is the clearcoat that determine that "hardness". A more concise reply, if the make had been mentioned, would be perhaps somethig like Honda black is softer than Ford black. Or more accurately, Honda clearcoat is softer than Ford clearcoat. IF you were referring to old style single stage paint, it is a definate error. Black is one of the hardest paints when cured, and if I recall correctly reds are less hard.

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                  • #10
                    Re: cleaner wax question

                    Blueline, I can see your point, but I think Murr was suggesting black paint CAN be soft, not that ALL black paint is soft. Any color can be any hardness and any manufacturer can be any hardness, even within models and model years can the clear coat vary. Granted we can make generalities, like Corvette paint is hard and Lexus paint is delicate, but it is only by working on a test area can tell you for sure. I can't tell by looking based on the paint color, as you indicated, we're talking about the clear part of the paint system.

                    Of course, I can't really read Murr's mind, my crystal ball isn't that good...

                    "fishing for swirls in a sea of black"
                    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
                    David

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