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Re: everytime i wash my car, i get swirls .
Sounds like you've got a pretty good technique overall. Probably better than 95% of anybody out there.
However I'd say throw that blade away! Yikes those things are scary, seriously.
I'm thinking you may be seeing swirls that were already there when you got the car. (As has been mentioned might have been hidden at the dealership with whatever top coat they used at the time.) Once you get correction done (read do a test spots until you see what you are looking for). Perhaps split the trunk up into 4 sections and do a test run on each until you feel you have got what you want.
Any-who, Look at a "wax as you dry" product to help with lubricity and filling those oh so small swirls that may be there when drying after a wash. Many (myself included) have used the Eagle One product with great results. I also use Meg's Quik Wax, check out this review and it makes the drying session go much better, not to mention the results really help bring back that 'just waxed' look to the car more so than a regular wash-n-wax.
I tend to use a synthetic PVA type chamois (like The Absorber) for the biggest water removal, wringing it out each time both ides are used only once. (FWIW get one that you use on one car only and only on the cleaner top panels and sides, do NOT let it get near the rocker panels, bottom of the bumper, doors, exhaust, etc.) This of course leaves the car wet where just a light spritz here and there followed with your everyday MF cloths to spread it out, (turning often) then a decent MF towel to very lightly take the last of the moisture away. If you use too much you'll end up smearing it everywhere and your drying cloths will get too wet. I've got it down to where I can use 1 little lightweight MF cloths to do the application and no more than 2 mid-weight ones to get everything nice and dry with a good shine. Works much better to keep that 'wet look' and 'top shimmer' than drying without it. The key is to use as little as you can get away with, but enough to help dissipate the water & chlorine left on the paint surface. Don't know about your water, but I'm not a big fan of tap water when it comes to spots.
Later,
Cardaddy
Sounds like you've got a pretty good technique overall. Probably better than 95% of anybody out there.
However I'd say throw that blade away! Yikes those things are scary, seriously.
I'm thinking you may be seeing swirls that were already there when you got the car. (As has been mentioned might have been hidden at the dealership with whatever top coat they used at the time.) Once you get correction done (read do a test spots until you see what you are looking for). Perhaps split the trunk up into 4 sections and do a test run on each until you feel you have got what you want.
Any-who, Look at a "wax as you dry" product to help with lubricity and filling those oh so small swirls that may be there when drying after a wash. Many (myself included) have used the Eagle One product with great results. I also use Meg's Quik Wax, check out this review and it makes the drying session go much better, not to mention the results really help bring back that 'just waxed' look to the car more so than a regular wash-n-wax.
I tend to use a synthetic PVA type chamois (like The Absorber) for the biggest water removal, wringing it out each time both ides are used only once. (FWIW get one that you use on one car only and only on the cleaner top panels and sides, do NOT let it get near the rocker panels, bottom of the bumper, doors, exhaust, etc.) This of course leaves the car wet where just a light spritz here and there followed with your everyday MF cloths to spread it out, (turning often) then a decent MF towel to very lightly take the last of the moisture away. If you use too much you'll end up smearing it everywhere and your drying cloths will get too wet. I've got it down to where I can use 1 little lightweight MF cloths to do the application and no more than 2 mid-weight ones to get everything nice and dry with a good shine. Works much better to keep that 'wet look' and 'top shimmer' than drying without it. The key is to use as little as you can get away with, but enough to help dissipate the water & chlorine left on the paint surface. Don't know about your water, but I'm not a big fan of tap water when it comes to spots.
Later,
Cardaddy
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