a very debatable topic...glaze/sealant/wax order

[jcat]

So obviously I'm new here but I've been detailing for quite some time. I got into polishing as I started taking it more seriously, using what I'm pretty sure (it's at my father's house now) is Meg's 83 machine polish. Regardless, now I own a 2007 Lexus ES350 in black (glutton for punishment) and it's the typical Lexus super soft black paint. Long story short, it was at a honda dealership, and these guys (as well as the PO i'm sure) absolutely mangled the paint. Scratches and swirls abound, but I digress.

I've bought the 5" Microfiber Correction Kit, as many over on ClubLexus have had excellent results with it. My question becomes what do I follow it with...

My normal exterior workflow is wash (dish soap if stripping, Meg's Hyperwash if not), clay, wash (always Hyperwash on the 2nd), dry (compressed air/absorber) polish (orange pad, #83), wax (black pad, #26 yellow wax). For this car, I've decided to go a bit above and beyond for it's first major detail. That workflow will be dish soap wash, clay, hyperwash, MF correction kit (both steps, #83 on areas that need it), and here's where it gets muddy. Bought 2 new products that I've seen great results with independent use, but now I've got this stupid idea to make the two play well with #26 to make this paint look like you could swim in it, and offer some kind of protection for the upcoming winter.

-Menzerna Finishing glaze
-Menzerna power lock poly sealant

So now, the question is the order in which I should use these. I've read hundreds of conflicting opinions on this, so I'd like to hear from you guys what you think I should do. The sealant MUST go on the car, no exceptions, and the #26 is almost always my LSP. The question really is whether I put the glaze down first, then cover it with the sealant and after a few days the wax, or put the sealant down on the freshly polished paint, followed by the glaze and #26 as I've read the oils in the glaze help the wax adhere better. I may experiment with a couple test spots anyway, but input is always welcomed.

[Detailing by M]

Re: a very debatable topic...glaze/sealant/wax order

Well it being a polymer sealant, if you put something on it before this product it won't seal to the paint.

"We have formulated Power Lock with the maximum concentration of advanced polymers to provide exceptional durability, paint protection and the slickest feel in an easy to apply liquid"

Topping this product seams like a waste to me but go ahead and top it with what ever you like and see if it looks better. But put this on first or it's not going to bond to anything but the wax you put on first.

[jcat]

Re: a very debatable topic...glaze/sealant/wax order

Well it being a polymer sealant, if you put something on it before this product it won't seal to the paint.

"We have formulated Power Lock with the maximum concentration of advanced polymers to provide exceptional durability, paint protection and the slickest feel in an easy to apply liquid"

Topping this product seams like a waste to me but go ahead and top it with what ever you like and see if it looks better. But put this on first or it's not going to bond to anything but the wax you put on first.

That was exactly the thought that had been rolling around in my head for a while last night...no reason to put anything under it since the polymer will probably do a decent job filling anyway...once it's fully cured, any remaining imperfections that it settles into I'll be able to hit it with the glaze to really pump it up, then top the glaze with wax to keep it on there a bit longer.

[Detailing by M]

Re: a very debatable topic...glaze/sealant/wax order

I would get all imperfections out before using a PS.
there are no "filling" proprties.
any imperfection will be there forever.

[Meticulous-Detail]

Try wet glaze 2.0 if your looking for that extra pop. It can be applied over or under sealant or wax.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: a very debatable topic...glaze/sealant/wax order

If you really want the pop following the correction with the DAMF System, give this a go:

• Wash (not sure you really need the dish soap EVER in this step, but if you really want to......)
• Clay (no need to wash following claying either, especially if you use a proper quick detailer as lubricant and wipe off as you go - why make extra work?)
• D300 Correction Compound/DMC5 Microfiber Cutting Disc for full defect removal

Now here's the deviation from what you've been discussing, but it will do wonders for the final appearance of the paint, both in gloss level and overall clarity:

• M205 Ultra Finishing Polish on a W9207 black foam finishing pad, speed 4 on the DA, light to moderate pressure, short buffing cycle. M205 is a SMAT abrasive, fine finishing polish that creates a deep, wet gloss with a very high degree of clarity. Since it's a SMAT vs diminishing abrasive it will work better with a shorter buffing cycle. Keep the pad clean by brushing it out regularly, and you'll love what it can do to enhance the appearance of the paint.
• Sealant - whether that means you want Menzerna Power Lock (or it's virtual twin, Blackfire Wet Diamond) or our own Ultimate Wax (paste version is absolutely fantastic, by the way) or any other full synthetic you happen to like.
• Wax - at this point applying a carnauba wax is totally optional because there's no real reason for it when using a synthetic sealant. Still, if you're a big fan of M26, go for it. It's great stuff, no doubt about it, but not really necessary over a sealant.