Learning pad limits

[XRDAD]

Hi all...

I just finished 'restoring' the clean to my 05 Civic. I used the g110v2 and my burgundy/yellow/black pads after claying the paint. I'm using the U/C, U/P and U/W line.

I now know I still have lots to learn as I burnt through a burgundy pad in the process. I overheated it

I couldn't figure out what was going on, thinking I was picking up dust or something (getting in my eyes) when I finally realized that the red specs were the pad coming apart. I'm not sure why it failed yet, because it didn't create any issues on the paint and the results (paint) are very good!??
But the pad was hot and the Velcro portion that is glued to the pad obviously couldn't take the heat.

This was not a defect in the pad, but user error.

If that wasn't enough, I switched to my MF pads for the front end of the car due to the really poor condition of the paint (stone chipping). I didn't notice the spacer fall out when I swapped out the backing plate. The g110 still ran, but wouldn't spin right and didn't sound right. It took me a couple of minute to figure it out, and fortunately the backing plate/machine aren't damaged other than a slight groove worn into the machine head area. Looks like a soft metal and it worked fine after I added the washer spacer.

In the end, the car turned out really good. If I were to do it over, I would have used the MF right from the start as I didn't correct the paint completely. There are still marks left that look like old water spots or something like that? But all of the swirls are gone and the paint looks much darker. As the car is for sale, it will serve the purpose.

But I definitely need to watch the videos and read through the 'art of detailing' again because I missed something along the way...

Looks like I better order some new pads ASAP!

btw, there's no option to add images? I would have like to show off the car.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Learning pad limits

If you don't mind us "picking apart" your comments above.......here's a few points we think you should consider in the future, and maybe even just avoid altogether.

The W7xxx series of burgundy cutting pads are not really recommended for use with a DA buffer as they are very aggressive and have the very real potential to haze paint. That doesn't mean you should never use them on a DA, just be very cautious when doing so and even then, use them as a last resort on really severe defects. But even better, since you have the DAMF System, you should never have need for the burgundy cutting pads on your G110 - you'll get more cut out of a DMC5 disc and D300 Correction Compound than you will that burgundy cutting pad and even M105. Another potential issue when using the burgundy pad on the DA, and you've experienced this first hand, is the very high level of heat that can be generated, especially when using a lot of pressure. This pad creates more drag against the paint than the yellow or black pads do, and this in turn can cause a lot more stress at the hook & loop interface of pad and backing plate. Due to the violent action of a DA buffer, it's constantly trying to throw the pad off the tool so the hook & loop material is under a lot of stress. This is why a DA will generate a lot more heat here than a rotary buffer will since a rotary spins the pad in a perfect circle; the hook & loop sort of takes a set and then just pulls in one direction. A DA constantly changes direction, which can cause this heat build up, which only gets worse with the burgundy cutting pad or when using mismatched hook & loop material. That last point is why we so highly recommend using our W67 backing plate with our microfiber discs. Proper use of the DAMF System means using quite a bit of pressure, and that will generate heat at the hook & loop. Mismatch those two (long hook, short loop) and the heat skyrockets, and quickly.

As you've found out, that little washer on the stud of the backing plate is fairly critical. Fortunately you discovered the error pretty quickly, but always make sure that's in place when mounting a fresh backing plate. I was surprised to find one of mine missing when I did a project over the weekend and wanted to use two tools, one with foam pads and the other with microfiber. I had to grab the washer off an extra backing plate I have - and now I have to remember that that plate is now missing its washer!!! Paying attention to all the little details - specs of dirt in a microfiber towel, missing washers on a backing plate, a loose piece of trim on a car, etc - can make all the difference.

One thing you didn't mention doing is a proper test spot. This is so critical every time you work on a car for the first time. You just have no clue how that paint is going to respond to a given input. You can work on a dozen cars in a row with the exact same combo of pad, product and tool and get great results on all of them. But you run the risk of being lulled into a sense of complacency and you stop doing test spots. Then the 13th car comes along and it just doesn't want to respond to anything. It's an extreme case, either incredibly delicate or just insanely hard. Now what? Test spot. Test spot. Test spot. People ask all the time what we think of their plan - and they lay out a detailed process with chemicals, pads and buffer speeds for each step and want to know if it will get the job done. And to be totally and completely honest, we don't know. Because we don't have that car in front of us. Sure, most paints fall within a certain range and you can usually correct them with basically the same process, maybe tweaking pressure or buffing time a bit, but those extreme cases can be really frustrating at first. But a good test spot can you save you a bunch of frustration down the line.

Edit to add: Oops, almost forgot: How to place an image in your messages