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Single Stage Arcylic Black

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  • Single Stage Arcylic Black

    Hi guys,I have been using Mequirs products for a while now but I have just done an arcrylic paint job and I wan't to get it to a finish that it looks a mile deep and to make it really stand up.
    So can you suggest what products to use to get this result,I have sliced it all the peel out of it and now it is ready to buff.

    Regards Tony.

  • #2
    Re: Single Stage Arcylic Black

    Any pics so we know what you are beginning with?
    Tedrow's Detailing
    845-642-1698
    Treat Yourself to that New Car Feeling

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    • #3
      Re: Single Stage Arcylic Black

      First off, welcome to MOL!


      So, if we understand you right you've painted the car, color sanded to remove the orange peel, and now it's time to remove the sanding marks and bring up the gloss, right? What was the final grit sand paper you used? We'd like to see 3000 grit as a final step because it will make compounding a whole lot easier, faster, and safer for the paint.

      Regardless of the final grit, you're going to need a rotary buffer, some M105 and either a wool or foam cutting pad and some fairly serious speed from the buffer - on the order of 1800 rpm. From there you'll refine the finish with some M205 and either a polishing or finishing foam pad at a slower speed, somewhere in the range of 1000 to 1200 rpm. Do you have any rotary experience? If not you're going to want to spend some time getting comfortable with it on a surface you don't care too much about because in the hands of a novice it can cause a whole lot of problems really quickly.
      Michael Stoops
      Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.

      Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.

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      • #4
        Re: Single Stage Arcylic Black

        Thankyou for the welcome Michael,experience wise with a a rotary buffer I have had about 30 years so no problem there,I did do the final colour sanding with 2500 grit paper but after reading the suggestion of 3000 I will now finish it off with that grade.
        Michael thankyou for all the advice on what products to use and I have alway's been impressed with all of the meguirs polishes and cleaners over the years.

        Regards Tony.

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        • #5
          Re: Single Stage Arcylic Black

          Just another question polish wise,use the show car glaze after that and then a wax by hand?

          Regards Tony.

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          • #6
            Re: Single Stage Arcylic Black

            You won't regret using #7 on SS black after all your polishing is done. It's an excellent final step before your LSP of choice. Also, if you've been buffing paint for 30 years, respect the equipment, but don't be afraid, as in many ways SS paint is easier to work than BC/CC. Today's BC/CC finishes are far, far superior to anything we had years ago, but IMHO, no cleared finish can compare to a well-polished SS paint in "blackness".

            Bill

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            • #7
              Re: Single Stage Arcylic Black

              Hey Billy thankyou for your input I appreciate it.

              Regards Tony.

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              • #8
                Re: Single Stage Arcylic Black

                Bill is a huge fan of M07 on single stage paint, and rightfully so - we are too!! If you're chasing the deepest, richest shine you can out of this new paint job, we can't imagine doing any better than M105/M205/M07. Remember to hold off on waxing until that paint has fully cured - 30 to 90 days depending on the actual paint and temp/humidity.

                We'd love to see some pictures of the car, even in it's various stages along the way.
                Michael Stoops
                Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.

                Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Single Stage Arcylic Black

                  Back in the 70's and 80's, when air-dried SS paint was norm, we'd color-sand and compound fresh paint, followed by M03. While waiting for the paint to cure well enough to wax, we'd do periodic hand applications of M07. When we finally did our first wax job, it was almost anti-climatic, as the multiple apps of M07 had the finish looking so good. That, together with the fine article by Mike Phillips on using M07 to restore oxidized SS paint, has kept me a lifelong fan.

                  Bill

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