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**wifpd4** · May 26, 2012, 04:33 AM

Re: Question about Armour All Wax and Polish

I can't really answer your question about the ArmourAll product, although it appears to be an All-In-One product. However I can say, in my limited experience hanging around Meguiar's Online, you won't find too many absolutes. So will someone here guarantee you can't damage your car with a power tool buffer, no they won't. Can they guarantee you MIGHT damage your finish by "going crazy", yep they can absolutely guarantee you MIGHT.

Tell us what car you have, year, color, condition and what you are trying to accomplish. Also tell us about your power tool. Does it have changeable pads or bonnets. Is it a rotary, orbital, or dual action?

And more importantly, welcome to MOL.

**SVT Lightning** · May 26, 2012, 06:05 AM

Re: Question about Armour All Wax and Polish

Originally posted by CKL View Post

does that mean I can pretty much go crazy with a power tool polisher and I won't really be able to do any damage to the paintwork?

Thanks in advance!

Cheers

Even with ANY wax, the wrong tool in in-experienced hands can cause damage.....

**CKL** · May 26, 2012, 06:19 AM

Re: Question about Armour All Wax and Polish

Hi guys, thanks for the welcome!

I have a white Nissan SSS Pulsar N15, 2000 model. I pulled off some side bumper strips to colour code them and the double sided sticky tape left a whole lot of sticky residue on the doors. Car looks like it still has a clear coat on 'some' panels but not others. Maybe some panels (without the clear protective coat) have been replaced before I got the car. I have borrowed a friends Black and Decker KP600 and looks like it has removeable pads. I think it is orbital.
What does dual action mean?
I guess I'm wondering what could go wrong if this product is only a wax and doesn't cut. Just to get some level of confidence whether I should attempt this or not.
My aim is to bring my paintwork back to a showroom condition if possible. Or as best as it can look.
Beside the sticky residue, I also have a spot on the front bumper and on the rear bumper where the clear coat looks like its cracking, showing lots of little lines
probably from minor bumps from the front and from behind, compressing the bumper bars and hence, cracking the clear coat.

Appreciate any advice. Totally amazed at some of the meguiars demo videos I watched on this forum.

**lytefall** · May 26, 2012, 08:47 AM

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**CKL** · May 26, 2012, 09:48 PM

Re: Question about Armour All Wax and Polish

Originally posted by lytefall View Post

Add Content

Post up some photos you mean?

**ffboy** · May 27, 2012, 02:43 AM

Re: Question about Armour All Wax and Polish

Originally posted by CKL View Post

Hi guys, thanks for the welcome!

I have a white Nissan SSS Pulsar N15, 2000 model. I pulled off some side bumper strips to colour code them and the double sided sticky tape left a whole lot of sticky residue on the doors. Car looks like it still has a clear coat on 'some' panels but not others. Maybe some panels (without the clear protective coat) have been replaced before I got the car. I have borrowed a friends Black and Decker KP600 and looks like it has removeable pads. I think it is orbital.
What does dual action mean?
I guess I'm wondering what could go wrong if this product is only a wax and doesn't cut. Just to get some level of confidence whether I should attempt this or not.
My aim is to bring my paintwork back to a showroom condition if possible. Or as best as it can look.
Beside the sticky residue, I also have a spot on the front bumper and on the rear bumper where the clear coat looks like its cracking, showing lots of little lines
probably from minor bumps from the front and from behind, compressing the bumper bars and hence, cracking the clear coat.

Appreciate any advice. Totally amazed at some of the meguiars demo videos I watched on this forum.

You can try and remove the adhesives with a tar ramover. Dual action basically means the poisher's action is both rotation and oscillation, so the movement of the head is not concentrated in one area for a long time, unlike a rotary or high speed buffer. No worries about the KP600, it really doesn't have much power to do any paint correction. If you're concerned about what can go wrong if you use a product with no cut, or in this case a wax, you need not worry. You'll basically just be applying a wax with an orbital which is fine and will allow you to spread the product a lot more thinly and evenly which is what's recommended by meguiar's or any other car wax brand out there. The KP600 won't damage the paint, if you apply a bit too much pressure it won't rotate. Just relax, apply the armour all wax and polish with the orbital you have, just make sure you get new pads before using it, to make sure you're not polishing any dirt (if the pads on the kp600 has been used, the blue foam pads that wrap around the black rubber backing plate is disposable), because it's still possioble to inflict more damage to the paint even if the KP600 has no cutting power.

As for the bumper paint cracks, the best option is to have it repainted. The cracks will eventually get worse as it ages (combination of temp., climate, weather changes and vibrations) will make the cracks worse.

**CKL** · Jul 12, 2012, 06:18 AM

Re: Question about Armour All Wax and Polish

As I understand it, all polishes/wax have some sort of cutting compound. The issue is just how strong the cutting compound is. Is this correct? I seriously gave up trying to find those blue foam pads for the B&D and ended up buying a variable speed, cheap rotary today. I'm hoping i go alright with it using a wax that doesn't mention 'cut' at all.

Tried WD40 but think I need to let it soak in more. Use Hair dryer first, should I?

**CHzo6** · Jul 12, 2012, 07:38 AM

Re: Question about Armour All Wax and Polish

It's possible the rotary will provide more cut than you are seeking if you are applying a wax. Not what you want to start out with.

**CKL** · Jul 13, 2012, 07:04 AM

Re: Question about Armour All Wax and Polish

Just did a bit more reading up on the difference between a Wax and a polish. This product I originally posted about is a wax AND polish. I guess an easy, lazy, apply once product. Is there much need to clay bar between washing the car, and applying a product like this?

**Murr1525** · Jul 13, 2012, 07:34 AM

Re: Question about Armour All Wax and Polish

Well, if the car needs clayed, then yes, it will help.

**Michael Stoops** · Jul 13, 2012, 07:44 AM

Re: Question about Armour All Wax and Polish

Reading the description of the product it sounds like a light cleaner wax so it should be safe to use as often as you like.

But here's the rub (pun intended): regardless of what product is used you can still damage the paint depending on how you apply that product. We've seen plenty of cases where people have rubbed through the clear coat by hand, even when using a light paint cleaner. This happens when they vigorously scrub in a very small area, with an aggressive applicator pad or towel, when trying to remove a stubborn, isolated defect. Conversely, even a very aggressive product, like M105 Ultra Cut Compound (our most aggressive compound) is perfectly safe to use by hand if your technique is dialed in. And regardless of the product used, regardless of the application process used, technique is everything in this game.

As for the need for claying the car between washing and using this TW product, we can only assume that you'll benefit from it given the age of your car. Claying removes the bonded contaminants that don't come off when you wash the car, and if leave this crud in place it just makes the process of applying and remove wax more difficult, and the wax won't last as long.

**CKL** · Jul 13, 2012, 04:27 PM

Re: Question about Armour All Wax and Polish

Thanks Michael for the tips! Is a foam pad applicator soft enough? I will be using it on the lowest speed setting 600rpm on a rotary.

**andytsang** · Jul 13, 2012, 09:34 PM

Re: Question about Armour All Wax and Polish

I don't have any experience with Armor All Wax & Polish. But if you never clay bar your car before, it is good idea to clay it first. Otherwise when you compound or polish your car, you will be dragging those above surface containment on your car. In short, it is worth to clay bar. Hope this help.

**CKL** · Jul 15, 2012, 06:15 AM

Re: Question about Armour All Wax and Polish

Hi guys,
So today I had my first go using a new variable speed rotary polisher I bought. I'm glad to say that I didn't ruin any paint (so far!) and I was very very conservative, using the lowest speed setting (600 rpm) or the next one up, a wax and polish that I think is only a very light polish, and tried to keep it moving etc.

I have a technical question for you all:

1. Which process actually removes the contaminants from the surface of the panel? i.e does the first process of rubbing in a liquid polish get the contaminants off, or does the 2nd process of buffing to a shine get the contaminants off? Trying to think logically about, I'm thinking its the first process when you rub in the liquid polish.

2. Should your rotary speed by faster/same/or slower for the buffing compared to polishing?

Thanks guys

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