How about an easy to use guide?

[silvereagle]

I am not new to MEGUIARS prods.but I am starting a new projeCt,a boat I am going to compound a boat,polish and then wax it,I need and I might not be alone on this A SIMPLE AND EASY TO USE GRAPH OR A GUIDE;-OK if I USE A CERTAIN COMPOUND WHAT PAD WORKS BEST?OR WHAT ARE MY OPTIONS TO KEEP IT SIMPLE?PLEASE HELP ME AND MAYBE OTHERS OUT! WHAT COMPOUND,WAX,POLISH SEALER ,WHAT PAD WOOL/SOFT FOAM TO USE ON THE NEW DA POLISHER.I know this is alot but I spending alot of my time and money and I need answers to GET THE JOB DONE RIGHT! THANK YOU

[davey g-force]

Re: How about an easy to use guide?

Why are you yelling?

I think you'll find the reason why there is no guide or chart such as you suggest is that there is no definitive answer. There are countless variables such as the condition of the paint, type of paint, severity/type of defects, desired outcome etc etc etc, that it is impossible to say "what works best" for you. Even then, different people have different ideas and definitions of "best".

You're best off describing your particular situation in this forum and getting advice which best suits you.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: How about an easy to use guide?

I think you'll find the reason why there is no guide or chart such as you suggest is that there is no definitive answer. There are countless variables such as the condition of the paint, type of paint, severity/type of defects, desired outcome etc etc etc, that it is impossible to say "what works best" for you. Even then, different people have different ideas and definitions of "best".

Perfect answer.


The best we, or anyone else, could possibly do is give you a starting point and that's about it. As Davey points out, there are so many variables both in the finish you're working on, your own workflow, etc that nothing can be guaranteed to work in all situations.

That said, we can tell you that when working on badly oxidized gel coat our "go to" starting point combo is M67 One Step Compound with a W7207 burgundy foam cutting pad on a DA at speed 5. But even then, we always do a test spot first because we don't know how a particular boat is going to respond to this. In most cases, it works great. But when it doesn't, we need to evaluate the finish following a test spot with this and make adjustments from there. Different liquid, different pad, different speed setting, different work time, and on an on.

But we never approach a project thinking "I'm going to use Liquid 'A', Pad 'B', Tool 'C' and Speed 'X' and get the job done". What we will do is evaluate the finish, draw on experiences with similar vehicles, and then think "I'm going to use Liquid 'A', Pad 'B', Tool 'C' and Speed 'X' for my first test spot".

[silvereagle]

Re: How about an easy to use guide?

ok,SORRY for yelling! I was told to go with the power-cut 91 followed by the color restorer 49 as a cleaner polish?but I dont know what pads to use on what?the white above the rub rail is heavey oxidized white,then below the rubrail is a green gel coat not so bad,my questions are what pads? thanks

[silvereagle]

Re: How about an easy to use guide?

so say a #2 wool pad for the pro cut? on the heavy oxidized,then a w7207 foam on everything else,

[Michael Stoops]

Re: How about an easy to use guide?

Don't use wool on a DA buffer - it's just a bad idea overall and will likely create all kinds of haze and small "tick mark" scratches. Stick with the W7207 foam cutting pad. But before jumping in with the M91, give M67 a go on it first. Take a look at this thread from a project we did here in our garage a couple of years ago for more info.