Trouble with #80

[ptim]

I attempted to use #80 today with a blue propel pad, the car had a small case of spider webs, I only tried a small section (half of the hood)and I was in the garage. It was very hard to remove, there has to be a easier way.

[travisdecpn]

There may have been a couple reasons. The first is taht you did not work the product long enough. The second is that the surface was too warm which causes the product to gum up quite badly.

[Murr1525]

How were you going about removing it?

[ptim]

Originally posted by Murr1525
How were you going about removing it?

By hand with a microfiber towel.

[Tim Lingor]

Hey,

There are many factors which could have affected the removing of #80. At what speed were you using the rotary? Normally, with #80 I would suggest a speed of around 1300 rpm. Another factor is the amount of product. Too much product will gum up the pads and leave a hard to remove residue on the paint. Also, you need to constantly clean the pad. I like to clean the pad with a special brush, after each panel.

So, therefore:

1. Clean the pad more often
2. Use less product
3. Use a speed of ~ 1300RPM

I use the rotary, #80 with a W-8006 Polishing Pad on just about every detail I complete!! It is an awesome product!!

I hope this helps!!

Tim

[Razor88]

Tim,
Great advice as usual, I was just wondering what type of brush you use to clean you pads off with?Also wanted to know if it was just as good to use a MF bonnet to remove #80? The last question was if you recomended #80 before applying #21 . Thanks

[RamAirV1]

Could letting #80 dry cause the same problem? Or maybe working it too long? IIRC, #80 should be removed while still wet.

I've let #81 dry and it was easy to remove, but now I know it should be removed while wet also. #81 is easier to work with because it has no cleaners or abrasives, but it is not meant for swirl removal.

RamAirV1

[Tim Lingor]

Hey,

The brush I use looks like an angle toothbrush but bigger. The bristles are soft enough to flex without cutting into the pad, yet strong enough to remove product. I place the rotary upside down on my leg, and turn it on. I draw the brush across the pad. This will remove a lot of the product that has saturated the pad. When a pad becomes too saturated, it will start to leave too much product behind and will gum up on the paint. I will then switch to a clean pad. I usually go through 2-3 pads per buffing step. Many people that have problems with the rotary are using saturated pads.

As for the Ultimate Bonnet to remove #80, yes you can if you are using a PC. I would not recommend using it with the rotary as you must avoid any dry buffing situation with a rotary buffer. I usually remove #80 by hand with a MF towel. I only use the bonnets for the removal of the LSP's.

Because #80 has a paintable polymer, whether it is left a little longer or removed damp, it still should remove fairly easily. The problem comes in if the product was applied too thick. The reason we remove #81 Hand Polish while damp is because it is a pure polish and really does not dry. It will "skin" over but not dry.

I hope this helps!

Tim