I've seen quite a few people mention they re-wash their car during the stages of a detail. Some re-wash after a compound to remove dust, some also re-wash after a polishing stage, and some straight after the LSP.
I wash before the job starts, compound and polish as needed and wipe off my LSP and usually that's it. Occasionally a Quick Detailer to remove any remaining smears but that's not often and usually confined to small areas.
Cuirous to know why this has become such an emerging trend. In my opinion the re-wash step allows an opportunity for your freshly corrected paint to be marked- even if only very slightly, by the washing process, especially considering the freshly compounded or polished paint is without wax/sealant protection at this point.
For paint correction I have mainly used M105 via DA which is prone to dust more than UC however this can be controlled with a simple adjustment to the amount of product used, priming the pad and regular cleaning of the pad. I used UC on a full correction job recently and was amazed at the differences compared to M105. Both correct to a similar degree, but in my opinion, the UC was not as user friendly in a direct comparison to M105. However my background involves a lot of rotary polisher use so this could skew my view on useability. The one thing UC would not do for me is dust.
As a fair percentage of MOL posters would be using UC over M105, the lack of dust, at least in any significant amount, makes me wonder why you would add the extra stages into the already lengthy process that is car care.
I wash before the job starts, compound and polish as needed and wipe off my LSP and usually that's it. Occasionally a Quick Detailer to remove any remaining smears but that's not often and usually confined to small areas.
Cuirous to know why this has become such an emerging trend. In my opinion the re-wash step allows an opportunity for your freshly corrected paint to be marked- even if only very slightly, by the washing process, especially considering the freshly compounded or polished paint is without wax/sealant protection at this point.
For paint correction I have mainly used M105 via DA which is prone to dust more than UC however this can be controlled with a simple adjustment to the amount of product used, priming the pad and regular cleaning of the pad. I used UC on a full correction job recently and was amazed at the differences compared to M105. Both correct to a similar degree, but in my opinion, the UC was not as user friendly in a direct comparison to M105. However my background involves a lot of rotary polisher use so this could skew my view on useability. The one thing UC would not do for me is dust.
As a fair percentage of MOL posters would be using UC over M105, the lack of dust, at least in any significant amount, makes me wonder why you would add the extra stages into the already lengthy process that is car care.
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