Single Stage Paint Correction - Heavy Oxidation, Heavy Etching, Fine Scuffs & Swirls

[DetailByDan]

Hey MOL, long time lurker, first time poster. I've already learned a ridiculous amount from just reading through the forums and how-to articles on here. Thanks for providing this great resource for paint fanatics worldwide to gather and share information, tips, tricks, strategies and results. Looking through some of the results photos on here made me realize just how bad my paint had gotten on my own car...and I feel very remorseful for letting her get so ugly... Apologies in advance for the long post...

Some background: About 16 months ago, the engine in my car blew up during a snow storm, so the car was covered in winter crud, road salt, road crud, grime, and overall paint eating nastiness. It sat in the driveway like that for about 2 months before I rinsed it off and covered it up... only to have the cover blow away during a spring storm... Yeah, that was only the start of my problems. Fast forward a while and I finally got a new engine installed. By that time, the car had been sitting baking in the sun, unprotected, under two very sappy trees. Rainwater and industrial fallout had just sat on the car for ages without being touched...

This resulted in heavy oxidation of the paint and large deep water spots and other etching. Here's a few pictures of the resulting horror paint. Warning: Not for the squeamish or those with weak stomachs!






This is a non-OEM, cheapo Single Stage Milano Red. I did a small test area on it with the Megs Cleaner Wax using a terry applicator (the only white one I had...sue me) and it definitely got a lot of red on it. It was repainted prior to my ownership. I know it was a poor quality paint job based on the fact that there was overspray everywhere, and they didn't even bother to remove the mud-flaps before spraying the car.... .

Anyways.... I'm on a ridiculously tight budget and don't have the funds to go out and buy anything new to tackle this job. Nearly every post on here raves about Meguiar's 105/205 for paint correction, but I don't have them, and I don't have the money to buy any more supplies than what I already have. I'm not looking for a concours perfect finish or anything, I just want the car to shine again like it used to and to restore some of the depth and luster to the paint. Wouldn't hurt if it wasn't pink-ish anymore either... LOL

So, here's a list of what I have on hand to tackle the job, and my basic plan of attack:

Tools & Supplies:
Chicago (Harbor Freight) Rotary Buffer/Polisher (Yeah...I know...I'll be careful! haha)
Meguiars W8000 Polishing Pads
Meguiars W9000 Finishing Pads
Meguiars and Mothers clay bars
Gobs of microfiber towels and such.

Products:
Meguiar's Ultimate Compound
3M 03900 Rubbing Compound
Meguiars M09 Swirl Remover 2.0
Meguiars M07 Show Car Glaze
Meguiars NXT Tech Wax 2.0
Meguiars Classic Cleaner Wax
Victory Wax Paint Sealant
Megs UQD
NevrDull
AutoGlym Paste Wax
Megs GoldClass paste wax
Megs GoldClass wash

Plan of Attack:
I plan to use the time trusted Meguiar's method of "Use the least aggressive method to achieve the results you desire." Now, I know the 3M Compound is a pretty aggressive compound, so I'm only keeping that as a last resort, possibly only to deal with some of the deeper scuffs that don't go through to the primer. I hear the Ultimate Compound is a great fine finishing compound, but I've never actually used it. I just want to make sure that I'm on the right track here, and get some insight from the more experienced guys to make sure I'm not missing anything...

At this point, I'm only focusing on the painted surfaces of the exterior...

Step 1: Wash, Strip and Decontaminate - Wash the car with a soft dilution of Dawn Blue to remove any treatments that may be existing on the paint. I've taken it through the Swirl-O-Matic Spit Booth at the gas station a few times over the last year to wash salt and pollen off it, and that seems to spray some sort of wax-like substance and a RainX like substance on the car, which needs to be stripped before I can clay. Then I'll hit the car with the clay to remove any bonded contaminants. Hopefully at this point, I won't have to use any further degreasers.
Step 2: Cleaning/Correcting - Following the "least aggressive method" approach, I plan to start with a generous buffing with the Cleaner Wax and see where that gets me. If necessary, move up to the Ultimate Compound, then the Swirl Remover 2.0 (Correct me if I'm wrong on that order...). Once I start seeing results with this, I can move on to the polishing phase.
Step 3: Polishing - I plan to use the cleaner wax here to polish away any buffing marks left behind by the correction phase, then follow it up by the show car glaze, which I've learned is a pure polish.
Step 4: Protection - This is easy...Wax it! LOL

So...Guru's of the internet... Does this approach seem right? Am I missing anything? Should I just **** it up, eat Ramen noodles for the next couple of weeks, and just buy some 205? LOL I'd rather use what I've already bought, though...if that makes sense. Thanks in advance!

[Murr1525]

Re: Single Stage Paint Correction - Heavy Oxidation, Heavy Etching, Fine Scuffs & Swi

How did the Cleaner/Wax test spot turn out?

1. Wash: Ehh, I'm pretty sure that using the Gold Class would be fine, but if the Dawn helps you feel better. Be sure to use 2 buckets, Grit Guards if possible.
2. Clay
3. Clean - I wouldnt worry about the Cleaner/Wax here really. If you have #9, that would be a good mild cleaner/polish to start with. And then if a test spot wants something stronger, Ult. Compound should do it. You could follow up with UC with #9 if wanted.
4. Polish - #9 is a cleaner/polish as mentioned, so no need for much after it. You can certainly try a pure polish though on a test spot, and see if you notice a difference. If so, then go for it. If not, then up to you for the rest of the car.
5. Wax
6. Wax

No reason you wont do great with what you have, other than being very careful with the buffer of course.

And then the Cleaner/Wax can be used more for quick details in the future.

[DetailByDan]

Re: Single Stage Paint Correction - Heavy Oxidation, Heavy Etching, Fine Scuffs & Swi

Thanks for the advice Murr. Appreciate the tip on the #9, too. Once the weather clears up, and I have some time to actually devote to this and I'll post up some before and after shots.

[BillE]

Re: Single Stage Paint Correction - Heavy Oxidation, Heavy Etching, Fine Scuffs & Swi

Looking forward to the results.

Me thinks that is gonna be major 'bling.'

Bill

[BillyJack]

Re: Single Stage Paint Correction - Heavy Oxidation, Heavy Etching, Fine Scuffs & Swi

For everything you wanted to know about aged single-stage paint, read this article:http://www.autotraderclassics.com/ca...sationId=21363
For your paint, I'd recommend the wash and clay of course, followed by a few aggressive rubs with M07, allowing the first one to soak in overnight. You can follow with one of your compounds on any bad areas, or just M09, depending on need. You don't necessarily need to do a noodle diet just for M205, as M09 is rated about the same on a cut chart. M205 is just a more advanced version, using the latest SMAT abrasive technology. I know it sound weird using M07 prior to your buffing, rather than after, but my El Camino is proof that it works. Here's a split shot of my roof after a bunch of rubs with M07:

If you were going to acquire another product in the future for your SS paint, I'd recommend M80, as its oil-rich content is very effective on older SS paint, with a mild-to-moderate of cut.
Finally, don't worry about trying to get decent results with your HF buffer. I've been using my trusty steel case Rockwell for 30 years and bought a HF buffer about a year ago to see if I'd like the variable speeds and lighter weight. I find myself using it more and more for just those reasons. The only serious shortcoming is its tendency to bog down under load. You need to keep a thumb on the speed control all the time, but it will do the job.

Bill

[DetailByDan]

Re: Single Stage Paint Correction - Heavy Oxidation, Heavy Etching, Fine Scuffs & Swi

Well, I spent today in the shade with the Rotary, some Ultimate Compound (after doing a few test spots with various combinations, I determined that UC with a Red Megs Cutting pad had the best effect), a bit of M7 and a Finishing Pad, and some AutoGlym High Definition Paste Wax and a bottle of NXT 2.0 Liquid Wax (among a few other things...). I can proudly say, that I restored the shine and brilliance to the red. (I'll have good after pictures tomorrow, my camera didn't like the lighting, so everything showed up hot pink! LOL).

However, that said, my car has quite possibly the most horrendous paint job I've ever witnessed, and I spray painted an old race car. I can only assume that whoever painted it (before I bought it) only spent a day between prep and paint--if that long. The "fine scuffs" I mentioned...well, after hitting the car with the UC/buffer, it became evident that they weren't all that fine. They actually appear to be deep sanding marks BELOW the paint.

Here's one super close-up, 1cm Macro picture of what I'm talking about. Mind you, the illuminated area of the photograph is only about 2"x2". If you're standing about 5 feet away, you won't notice them unless you know they're there...and I do, and it drives me insane. I don't think there's anything can be done to fix that, save for a proper paint job... So, my goal today was just to make the worst paint job in the world look the best it can from 5 feet away. On a positive note, I did manage to not burn through my paint, or swirl the bejeezus out of it with the Rotary!! I took a very gentle approach to it, and it seemed to work well.



In this next picture, you can see the gross orange peel. It would take a VERY aggressive wet-sanding to remedy this...and yeah...I'm not doing that, because, even if I can rectify the orange peel, I'll still have ^^ That ^^ to look at...



But, it's red, and it's shiny! Not perfect, but that's OK considering the extremely poor quality of the paint work on the car. Thanks for all your help, guys!!

- Dan

[summerstorm]

Re: Single Stage Paint Correction - Heavy Oxidation, Heavy Etching, Fine Scuffs & Swi

Hey Murr,

I was just thinking today that if my paint wasn't bad "ENOUGH" to use UC, but did still need some cleaning, is their actually a product out there that would both cut and polish and so leaving a solid bedrock for my ULW. I've got cleaner/wax but I don't want all, and the wax, in one step. I was actually dreaming of a product that would cut and polish only, then I would wax. I noticed you mentioned #9 above. I'm not familiar with the professional line # products, so then I peaked around the professional line stuff and noticed this stuff called SOLO Cut and Polish cream .

Not sure if they are the same thing. But lastly was wondering if either kind could be used by hand. I don't have a machine. Thanks man Have a good day.

[smack]

Re: Single Stage Paint Correction - Heavy Oxidation, Heavy Etching, Fine Scuffs & Swi

That red looks much better than what it did. Wetsanding is the only way to properly fix that car.

I cant believe the body shop didnt remove the mud flaps before painting. What a lousy body shop. I hope they didnt make a quick buck off the guy that brought them the car.

The solo cut and polish is a Rotory only application. If you wanted the equivilant version for D/A and hand application you could try out D151. Of course D151 has wax in it but works much the same the solo system works as I have been told. D151 can be used by hand, D/A, and rotory while the Solo system is is just for the rotory. I picked some D151 and will try it out tommorrow on my commuter.

If you dont want an AIO stick with either UC or UP and use them prior to putting down your wax. Hope this helps.

[summerstorm]

Re: Single Stage Paint Correction - Heavy Oxidation, Heavy Etching, Fine Scuffs & Swi

Thanks smack I'm gonna give that d151 a try. Is the MG #9 at all like these two?

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Single Stage Paint Correction - Heavy Oxidation, Heavy Etching, Fine Scuffs & Swi

Thanks smack I'm gonna give that d151 a try. Is the MG #9 at all like these two?

D151 is a true all-in-one product, so it's basically a cleaner wax on steroids that can be used with a DA or rotary, and with anything from a foam finishing pad to wool cutting pad. So1o is a single liquid/multi pad system designed for rotary use on fresh paint. The idea is that you can cut dramatically with it using the wool cutting pad, and take it all the way down to a final finishing polish with the foam finishing pad, and do anything in between with the other two pads in the system. It does not offer any protection. M09, on the other hand, is a pretty traditional medium duty paint cleaner using diminishing abrasives. While good stuff, it's a bit dated now and maybe not the greatest choice, even at it's cut level, for a modern clear coat.