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Re: H110v2 and Ultimate Compound leaving tiny chips in finish. Micro-marring? Ticks?
We see these types of small pits all the time on cars that come into our garage for Saturday Classes, TNOG sessions, etc. They are almost impossible to see on metallic paint but if you know what you're looking for you can sometimes still find them. I'm just now starting to see a few on the hood of my daily driver, but they aren't caused by any product I've ever put on my car (and for the record, since I play with a bunch of competitors products all the time, I've had any number of different compounds, polishes, waxes, sealants, washes, detailers, yadda yadda yadda on my car).
On the cars that we've seen these on, they are almost never visible until you've buffed them out because all the other issues are hiding them. While these small pits tend to look sort of like solvent pop, they aren't. Solvent pop is the likely culprit behind the issues in the red paint shown in that first image, but you can see solvent pop on a dirty car, let alone one that just hasn't been buffed out. It is also incredibly common to see people describe the condition of their car as "pretty good" until they start buffing it out, and then they start to notice things they never would have before as they now become super critical of the surface when they see the real potential.
The main reason your searches on forums for this type of issue being created by buffing have turned up nothing is because this was not caused by buffing. As you and Mark have already discussed, the physical nature of the process simply can not create small pits in the paint like this. If anything were trapped in the pad it would create pigtails in the paint, which can be very difficult to remove as they tend to be fairly deep, but they directly mimic the movement of the pad. As the name "pigtail" implies, these defects are in an extended curly cue pattern that resembles the tail of a pig, sort of corkscrewing across the surface of the paint. Tick marks, on the other hand, also follow the movement of the pad as the buffer oscillates it over the paint, but they tend to be very short "hook" shaped marks that are very light and very closely spaced. It is that lightness and close spacing that makes the paint look hazing or lacking depth of color - black can look almost grayish. These are both very common defects, but they directly mimic the motion of the pad. So these did not come from a dirty or contaminated pad, no way.
We suspect that, even though you may be seeing these marks all over the car, they are most prevelant on the hood and front of the vehicle. This would be consistent with impact from fine particulate material (sand, dirt kicked up from the cars in front of you on the road, etc) that we see all the time. Again, these are so small as to often be hidden prior to working on the paint. If you have an area of the car that has not been buffed yet but all areas around it have been, and are now exhibiting these defects, we'd be curious to see what happens if you give the unbuffed areas a good wipe down with isopropyl alcohol to remove anything that might be concealing any defects.
Why you're suddenly seeing these same marks on your guitar is really puzzling, though. How did you apply and remove product on the guitar?
We see these types of small pits all the time on cars that come into our garage for Saturday Classes, TNOG sessions, etc. They are almost impossible to see on metallic paint but if you know what you're looking for you can sometimes still find them. I'm just now starting to see a few on the hood of my daily driver, but they aren't caused by any product I've ever put on my car (and for the record, since I play with a bunch of competitors products all the time, I've had any number of different compounds, polishes, waxes, sealants, washes, detailers, yadda yadda yadda on my car).
On the cars that we've seen these on, they are almost never visible until you've buffed them out because all the other issues are hiding them. While these small pits tend to look sort of like solvent pop, they aren't. Solvent pop is the likely culprit behind the issues in the red paint shown in that first image, but you can see solvent pop on a dirty car, let alone one that just hasn't been buffed out. It is also incredibly common to see people describe the condition of their car as "pretty good" until they start buffing it out, and then they start to notice things they never would have before as they now become super critical of the surface when they see the real potential.
The main reason your searches on forums for this type of issue being created by buffing have turned up nothing is because this was not caused by buffing. As you and Mark have already discussed, the physical nature of the process simply can not create small pits in the paint like this. If anything were trapped in the pad it would create pigtails in the paint, which can be very difficult to remove as they tend to be fairly deep, but they directly mimic the movement of the pad. As the name "pigtail" implies, these defects are in an extended curly cue pattern that resembles the tail of a pig, sort of corkscrewing across the surface of the paint. Tick marks, on the other hand, also follow the movement of the pad as the buffer oscillates it over the paint, but they tend to be very short "hook" shaped marks that are very light and very closely spaced. It is that lightness and close spacing that makes the paint look hazing or lacking depth of color - black can look almost grayish. These are both very common defects, but they directly mimic the motion of the pad. So these did not come from a dirty or contaminated pad, no way.
We suspect that, even though you may be seeing these marks all over the car, they are most prevelant on the hood and front of the vehicle. This would be consistent with impact from fine particulate material (sand, dirt kicked up from the cars in front of you on the road, etc) that we see all the time. Again, these are so small as to often be hidden prior to working on the paint. If you have an area of the car that has not been buffed yet but all areas around it have been, and are now exhibiting these defects, we'd be curious to see what happens if you give the unbuffed areas a good wipe down with isopropyl alcohol to remove anything that might be concealing any defects.
Why you're suddenly seeing these same marks on your guitar is really puzzling, though. How did you apply and remove product on the guitar?
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