Factory New Black Truck - Questions Before First Detail

[Umbra Vipera]

I love search engines but sometimes I fail at finding the correct key words to locate the results I’m looking for. Anyway…

Is Ultimate Compound too aggressive for new paint? Should I start with Ultimate Polish?

The plan is Ultimate Compound, Ultimate Polish, Ultimate Liquid Wax, and then a paste wax to finish it off after the ULW has cured overnight. Should I follow up the application of Ultimate Liquid Wax with Gold Class Carnauba Plus Premium or Ultimate Paste Wax? I really want the deepest shine possible.

There are larger vinyl graphics that are intended to have a matte finish but I’m not sure exactly how best to protect them. Is Mirror Glaze #40 the correct product to use on the matte graphics? Then there’s the case of the glossy graphics (vinyl?). What do I do to protect the glossy graphics that have?

Does anyone have any suggestions, tips, and/or links on how to approach detailing the painted surfaces between the stripes of the graphics? I’m guessing taping the entire stripe off is the best option but the thin stripe is going to be a pain.

Full disclosure:

The vehicle in question is a 2012 F150 FX4 Supercrew in Tuxedo Black with the appearance package. That means it has 20” aluminum painted wheels (black) and what I presume is a vinyl graphic on the side (which is rather large in some areas) that runs from the front doors down the side of the truck bed close to the tail lights. The truck has yet to be hand washed and a detailed inspection has not been completed yet. I’m going to make the assumption that there are going to be some swirl marks in the paint.

Let me state that I’ve never used a DA polisher before for polishing a vehicle. Normally the vehicles I take care of aren’t as big as this truck and are typically a much more forgiving color (silver). Regardless I’m going to use a Porter Cable 7346SP to do this job. I have a backing plate and some Lake Country pads on order (Yellow, Orange, Green, White, Black, and Blue). Let me also state that I will be microfiber mitt washing (two bucket method w/ grit guards), microfiber drying, and then claying the truck (Smooth Surface Clay Kit) prior to any other actions.

[aris]

Re: Factory New Black Truck - Questions Before First Detail

If their is no swirl marks I don't think you will need to use Ultiamte compound.

What i would do

1. wash your truck with car wash soap
2. Clay the paint
3. wax the truck with ultimate wax

( I can't help you with graphic's casue i never wax over them i always go around them)

[Umbra Vipera]

Re: Factory New Black Truck - Questions Before First Detail

Yep...I got a jug of Deep Crystal Car Wash ready to go. I'm hoping I don't find any swirls and can avoid the Ultimate Compound altogether. Sadly...before I actually started learning about how to truly take care of a finish...the dealer had a go at "detailing" the truck prior to delivery. It looked good when they showed up in my drive way but I didn't really look at the paint that close. Besides...after a three hour drive from the dealer to my home it was dirty. It is black after all.

[wifpd4]

Re: Factory New Black Truck - Questions Before First Detail

Umbra,

Start here:

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?36-Pictures-from-Saturday-Classes

You will see Ultimate Compound is great for all kinds of paints. I don't think you need to be afraid of it. However, I do believe you need to start by washing the car, claying the car and evaluating what condition it is in before starting the task of making corrections. Meguiar's preaches beginning with a test spot with the least aggressive method. In your case you will find it helpful to go the Lake Country web page and become familiar with the many different pads you have in your possession. Starting with Ultimate Polish and a moderately aggressive pad is a good beginning. Remember buffer speed, arm speed and pressure all are part of the equation. Test spot, test spot, test spot.

I do not profess to be an expert or even an amateur with vinyl graphics, but I can say this, "you break'm, you bought'm". Like the bull in the china shop you cannot undo damage you may do to them. Protect them when claying and be gentle when washing. Swirls you make on the paint may be correctable, but not so on the vinyls. Tape them up and stay away from them while correcting the paint with a buffer. It was recommended to me to clean them, gently, with alcohol. Do a search on IPA to find out more about the use of IPA. After correcting the paint and before waxing, do an IPA wipe down of the vinyls. Then you may wish to do as I did and find a spot on the vinyls to do a test and wax a small area. You may be surprised the matte stays matte and the gloss stays glossy. In my opinion, I don't know why you would use M40 on them. M40 provides no protection and must have a wax or sealant over it.

Choosing a wax is a personal preference. If you aren't concerned about longevity, then Gold Class is great. If you are concerned about longevity, use Ultimate Wax. Gold Class maybe long lasting, but Ultimate is advertised with the best longevity. Liquid Ultimate Wax will not stain trim, if you are careless Paste Ultimate Wax will. So the first time I might suggest using Liquid Ultimate. Yes, you can put Gold Class on top of Ultimate. Will it look better, only you will know. Another readily available wax is NXT Tech 2.0. So do a search and find out what folks say about it. Just remember you don't like a wax this time around, use something different next time until you find what you like. You will be hard pressed to find a Meguiar's wax that doesn't look good on your black truck. Remember it is the prep work that is the foundation upon which you build a great looking finish. Use an automotive tape or find delicate surfaces tape on the graphics, logos, panel edges, etc.

For the spaces between graphics, tape them up and work by hand.

Good luck and post pictures before and after. It never hurts to review the videos.

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?134-How-To-Videos

Review the information here too.

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?67-The-Dual-Action-Polisher

[1994Gen1L]

Re: Factory New Black Truck - Questions Before First Detail

Congrats on the Tuxedo Black F150. I've had several F150's through the years with vinyl graphics. I have found that a mild polish and good wax is a great way to take care of them.

If their is no swirl marks I don't think you will need to use Ultiamte compound.

What i would do

1. wash your truck with car wash soap
2. Clay the paint
3. wax the truck with ultimate wax

Great suggestion ^^^ that I would add a few steps to.

1. Meg's Ultimate Wash & Wax with 2 bucket technique, 2 MF wash mitts, Meg's Water Magnet MF towel
2. Meg's clay bar kit
3. Meg's Ultimate Polish applied with a Meg's G110v2 DA and yellow polishing pad (speed 3), applied by hand on painted wheels, remove with a good quality MF towel
4. Meg's Ultimate liquid Wax applied with Meg's DA and black finishing pad (speed 2), applied by hand on painted wheels, remove with a good quality MF towel
5. Meg's Gold Class Carnauba Plus Quick Wax and Gold Class High Gloss Detailer.

These step's make my 2011 Race Red F150 sparkle.

James

[Umbra Vipera]

Re: Factory New Black Truck - Questions Before First Detail

...copy pasted combined with this forum cause me issues...???

back in a few...

[Umbra Vipera]

Re: Factory New Black Truck - Questions Before First Detail

Thanks for the links and the tips! Much appreciated.
I finally had a chance yesterday to rinse the truck off (not hand wash) and take a look at it in the sun. I didn’t see any swirl marks anywhere on the truck. There is some orange peel in spots and one defect. That defect is two small lumps in or under the paint with the largest being smaller than a BB. Thankfully the defect is on the top of the cab and not noticeable from the ground (unless you’re like 7’ tall). Regardless I shouldn’t need Ultimate Compound.

In your case you will find it helpful to go the Lake Country web page and become familiar with the many different pads you have in your possession. Starting with Ultimate Polish and a moderately aggressive pad is a good beginning. Remember buffer speed, arm speed and pressure all are part of the equation. Test spot, test spot, test spot.

I researched the pads prior to purchase and also have the chart Lake Country provides on line. Basically what I got runs the gambit of their selection. I will definitely be doing the test spot...most likely the tailgate…so if I mess it up is should easily be repaired.

I do not profess to be an expert or even an amateur with vinyl graphics, but I can say this, "you break'm, you bought'm". Like the bull in the china shop you cannot undo damage you may do to them. Protect them when claying and be gentle when washing. Swirls you make on the paint may be correctable, but not so on the vinyls. Tape them up and stay away from them while correcting the paint with a buffer. It was recommended to me to clean them, gently, with alcohol. Do a search on IPA to find out more about the use of IPA. After correcting the paint and before waxing, do an IPA wipe down of the vinyls. Then you may wish to do as I did and find a spot on the vinyls to do a test and wax a small area. You may be surprised the matte stays matte and the gloss stays glossy.

The DA is not going anywhere near the vinyl…period.

In my opinion, I don't know why you would use M40 on them. M40 provides no protection and must have a wax or sealant over it.

According to the information provided on the bottle and the website, M40 does provide protection for vinyl and rubber. I simply didn’t know if it was the ‘right’ product for vinyl decals and if it would deliver a matte finish. If you visit http://www.meguiars.com/en/professional/products/m4016-vinylrubber-cleanerconditioner-16oz/ and hover your mouse over the icons under the “PRODUCT BENEFITS” section, Mequiar’s clearly indicates “Long-lasting protection”, “Prevents aging and protects surface from contaminants”, and “Protects against UV damage and browning” among other benefits.

Congrats on the Tuxedo Black F150. I've had several F150's through the years with vinyl graphics. I have found that a mild polish and good wax is a great way to take care of them.

1. Meg's Ultimate Wash & Wax with 2 bucket technique, 2 MF wash mitts, Meg's Water Magnet MF towel
2. Meg's clay bar kit
3. Meg's Ultimate Polish applied with a Meg's G110v2 DA and yellow polishing pad (speed 3), applied by hand on painted wheels, remove with a good quality MF towel
4. Meg's Ultimate liquid Wax applied with Meg's DA and black finishing pad (speed 2), applied by hand on painted wheels, remove with a good quality MF towel
5. Meg's Gold Class Carnauba Plus Quick Wax and Gold Class High Gloss Detailer.

These step's make my 2011 Race Red F150 sparkle.

James

Thanks for the tips. I might try a test spot with some Ultimate Liquid Wax on the graphics and see what it looks like. I simply figured it might make it a bit too glossy in this case.

[RPPM]

Re: Factory New Black Truck - Questions Before First Detail

Try Ultimate Quik Wax for matte finished decals, or in this case the vinyl.

[wifpd4]

Re: Factory New Black Truck - Questions Before First Detail

Umbra,

My bad. I saw M40, but my brain did some weird math and thought of another product. Although my original comment is wrong, I wonder if M40 will achieve the effect you want on your matte and glossy graphics. If you get it, I might suggest testing it on other areas of the truck first and see if it is what you want. I routinely use it on window, door, hood and trunk gaskets, black grill inserts and black wiper cowls. It darkens, "brightens" and protects as advertised.

According to the information provided on the bottle and the website, M40 does provide protection for vinyl and rubber. I simply didn’t know if it was the ‘right’ product for vinyl decals and if it would deliver a matte finish.

[Umbra Vipera]

Re: Factory New Black Truck - Questions Before First Detail

wifpd4,

No biggie...I've been there done that more than once. It really sounds like I'll need to simply test a spot and see. I'll definately use the M40 on the gaskets and such just as you listed. I've got two other vehicles in need of some attention that the M40 will certainly come in handy for as well.

[Bill1234]

Re: Factory New Black Truck - Questions Before First Detail

Start with wash in the shade
dry off the car and clay. you will need to spray the area a bit because no lubricant = destroyed clear coat
after claying read instructions to use the PC, Ultimate Compound is probably a best best as the pro line is too powerful

For the DA, go down and up the length of the section, and then left and right the length of the section about 4 times each
Use the finishing to apply wax after you have wiped off the cutting residue

[1994Gen1L]

Re: Factory New Black Truck - Questions Before First Detail

I had a few paint defects when I purchased my 2011 and had Ford correct it under warranty. I use my DA with Meg's polishing and finishing pads with UP/ULW on the STX bed graphics with zero ill effects.

Enjoy the new truck.

[Umbra Vipera]

Re: Factory New Black Truck - Questions Before First Detail

So I "started" working on the truck on Saturday with a careful cleaning. Sadly the 4 year old distracted me just long enough to enable me to introduce some nice water spots to the paint. Fantastic...yea...not so much. Anyway...long story short...the factory paint wasn't in too bad of shape. After the wash I clayed the hood and top of the cab for the heck of it. There was some minor difference to the touch but the clay really didn't show much particulate matter being picked up. Then I started with with Ultimate Polish on a Lake Country White pad and the DA. This combination was able to remove most of the water marks without issue. A few spots I ended up using Ultimate Polish, a microfiber application pad, and good old fashioned elbow grease. To be fair, most of these spots were in recessed areas or areas where the DA simply wasn't efficient to use. I followed the polish treatment with two coats Ultimate Liquid Wax and the results are awesome. I think I'm still going to give it one coat of Gold Class Carnauba Plus Paste Wax to see if there will deepen the color a bit.

I had a few paint defects when I purchased my 2011 and had Ford correct it under warranty. I use my DA with Meg's polishing and finishing pads with UP/ULW on the STX bed graphics with zero ill effects.

Enjoy the new truck.

With the exception of the orange peel which is almost everywhere, the defects were limited to the top of the cab and actually about the size of the head of a pin. There are two or three spots but since they are the top of the cab where you can't really see them, I'm not going to mess with it. Who knows what the body shop would return.

[Murr1525]

Re: Factory New Black Truck - Questions Before First Detail

From the sounds of things, you will get the most darkening if you use the new Gold Class Spray Wax, esp after your next wash.

[Umbra Vipera]

Re: Factory New Black Truck - Questions Before First Detail

I'll keep that in mind. Thanks.