Just another fan - Journey of a new detailer

[yuriko]

Re: Just another fan - Journey of a new detailer

Thank you Andy. Much appreciated.

Will be posting pics soon!

[andytsang]

Re: Just another fan - Journey of a new detailer

My bad! I should not reply 1 AM in the morning while my eyes half open.

It should be following instead

4:1 for heavy duty cleaning: 6.4 oz of product and fill up water to 32 oz bottle
10:1 for light duty cleaning: 2.9 oz of product and fill up water to 32 oz bottle

The formula is somewhat like this:
D:1 dilution is D*P + 1*P = T. So for P = T / (D + 1)
T: total volume
D: dilution desired
P: product volume

4:1 is 32 / 5 = 6.4
10:1 is 32 / 11 = 2.9

My apology.

[andytsang]

Re: Just another fan - Journey of a new detailer

4:1 for heavy duty cleaning: 8 oz of product and 24 oz of water for 32 oz bottle.
10:1 for light duty cleaning: ~3 oz of product and ~29 oz of water for 32 oz bottle.

Check out following threads which might be useful

How to properly dilute Meguiar's Detailer Line products

Detailer Line- Dilution Ratio List

[yuriko]

Re: Just another fan - Journey of a new detailer

i think you waist money on products that you may use only once , instead to get a buffer

Hey mate,

I'm actually using them one several cars so not just mine ^_^

[Cosmin]

Re: Just another fan - Journey of a new detailer

Hi guys,First of all I would like to thank every single person for their comments and feedback on questions posted by forumers. (All done by hand no buffers):

Cheers,
Joe

i think you waist money on products that you may use only once , instead to get a buffer

[yuriko]

Re: Just another fan - Journey of a new detailer

Just bought the All Purpose Cleaner, Quick Detailer and Gold Class (from what I heard its good for black cars?).

For the All Purpose Cleaner, how much ratio should I use into a spray bottle, as in how many oz? My bottle fills up to 32oz and I'm using this to clean my tyres.

[Murr1525]

Re: Just another fan - Journey of a new detailer

Sounds like a good start.

[yuriko]

Re: Just another fan - Journey of a new detailer

Cheers mate.

I have managed to do it in the Easter weekend. Spent 10 hours in total spread between 2 days. I won't say that I have done a perfect job however I would say it does looks 100x better. I will take pictures when I clean it this weekend as the previous week had start raining after I finished. I must say that the polish and wax does make a huge difference. I don't have any watermarks as the water beading is superb!

[Murr1525]

Re: Just another fan - Journey of a new detailer

What I'm getting out of this, sorry I'm abit slow and takes me some time to get around it.

A lot of the process is just feel, and experience, and getting used to things.

Its not like using a product in the wrong order will ruin the car, just might not be as good as it could be. As long as you are working on a clean surface so you arent dragging dirt around, its just practice after that. And then talking to us for what to use when.

I'll probably be working on this day after day.

Here's my plan:

1. Wash, clay everything down, wipe it dry
2. Start on ONE panel i.e. bonnet with UC/Polish/Wax
3. Next day work on side panels i.e. door (Wipe down with damp microfibre towel) Then start on panel. Some QD/soap spray would be a good idea. Dont want to add more swirls to have to fix
4. Continue around the car until finish
5. Give it a week then give the car a wash + quick wax detail.

See Red.

Yeah, thats the idea for spreading it out. And if a panel goes quick, then you can do more. Wont know until you are out there.

[yuriko]

Re: Just another fan - Journey of a new detailer

Cheers Murr.

What I'm getting out of this, sorry I'm abit slow and takes me some time to get around it.

If you were going to be able to work each day on it, then wash, clay everything, and then UC/Polish/Wax a panel a day. I was thinking that if it may take a few weeks to get the time, then you may want to use the cleaner/wax to get some wax on there, and then UC/Polish/Wax when time allows. If that makes sense for you.

I'll probably be working on this day after day.

Here's my plan:

1. Wash, clay everything down, wipe it dry
2. Start on ONE panel i.e. bonnet with UC/Polish/Wax
3. Next day work on side panels i.e. door (Wipe down with damp microfibre towel) Then start on panel.
4. Continue around the car until finish
5. Give it a week then give the car a wash + quick wax detail.

Am I doing it right Murr? ^_^

[Murr1525]

Re: Just another fan - Journey of a new detailer

Sure, those pads look like a good foam pad for any of the products.

A lot depends on your paint... some clean up easy, some take work. And then the type of defects. My car is easy to remove swirls from, but has picked up some stubborn water spots that need tackled in my spring detail. All you can do is get out there, and start on a panel, and see. Working by hand isnt helping of course. If it looks stubborn, then a panel a day...

What I meant was that if your paint ends up hard to work on, you may want to wash, clay, cleaner/wax real quick, and then just do the panel a day every so often type thing.

If you were going to be able to work each day on it, then wash, clay everything, and then UC/Polish/Wax a panel a day. I was thinking that if it may take a few weeks to get the time, then you may want to use the cleaner/wax to get some wax on there, and then UC/Polish/Wax when time allows. If that makes sense for you.

As far as getting dirty, just depends.... If it is dusty, some QD could be used on the panel you are about to work on. If it is really dirty, or been a week, you could just wash everything.

Generally, I wouldnt stop at a polishing step, as the oils are not very durable. That is why you wax after. So either stop after claying, or waxing. I suppose you could stop after UC, if you were going to Ult. Polish/Wax after.

[yuriko]

Re: Just another fan - Journey of a new detailer

The clay will rarely degrade while you are actually using it. But say you clay now, and store the clay for 6 months, and then go to use it again, some people have it falling apart a bit.

Ah thats really good to hear.

The main thing will be to try and work a proper sized area, like maybe a foot square, and using the palm/area under fingers on the pad, not finger tips.

People who focus on a tiny spot with a finger tip can get into trouble sometimes.

Also, be sure to just do a test spot/panel, and then check your work. If you dont see the right progress, or something looks off, you can come back and ask. Dont do the whole car before checking your work.

Will definitely double check on the work before I continue, Would NOT want to scratch the paint further!

Yeah, I'd probably wax with the MF if I had to. Couldnt quite tell which red foam pads you meant, but sound similar to the ones with the wax as well?



In 5-6 hours by hand... shiny, yes. Swirl free....ehh...

These are the foam pads I was talking about.

http://autogeek.commerce-search.net/redirect?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.autogeek.net%2Fred-ccs-applicators.html

Woah 5-6 hours and won't be swirl free will make me super sad!

I was watching the UC video and it seems simple? I don't know unless they're fast forwarding it lol cause it seemed like it was wipe on, wipe off.

Also Murr, you advised me to wash,clay and polish first before going for full detail. Just wanted to ask as I will be driving out etc, would I have to rewash, clay then full detail? (Let's say I do it the next day as there would be polish on the paint.)

[Murr1525]

Re: Just another fan - Journey of a new detailer

Will try this method and I'll also get the lubricant just in case I feel that it isn't going right (clay degrading) Thanks.

The clay will rarely degrade while you are actually using it. But say you clay now, and store the clay for 6 months, and then go to use it again, some people have it falling apart a bit.

Sorry I mean when you're working the compound you'll see hazing (product turns white). Yep will spend less time as advised, just want to try and get it perfect instead of working it too long or too little

The main thing will be to try and work a proper sized area, like maybe a foot square, and using the palm/area under fingers on the pad, not finger tips.

People who focus on a tiny spot with a finger tip can get into trouble sometimes.

Also, be sure to just do a test spot/panel, and then check your work. If you dont see the right progress, or something looks off, you can come back and ask. Dont do the whole car before checking your work.

Hrm, I might use the foam that come's with the NXT Gen wax for UC.

Yeah, I'd probably wax with the MF if I had to. Couldnt quite tell which red foam pads you meant, but sound similar to the ones with the wax as well?

Thanks for the tips on here. Very useful and I'll probably take it easy. I might spend about 5-6 hours on detailing if I plan to do a full detail. Would you think it is enough? I'm not aiming for super duper show car, I just want to shiny swirl free look =p

In 5-6 hours by hand... shiny, yes. Swirl free....ehh...

[yuriko]

Re: Just another fan - Journey of a new detailer

You would want to just wash the soap off, and then dry. No need for more wiping.

This'll save me energy for sure!

You would want to use your regular car wash soap if nothing else. But remember that soap sometimes cause the clay to degrade if stored for a while. But you can also cut the clay into smaller pieces to use.


You could use soapy water from a spray bottle, or get a panel sudsy while washing, and then clay right away. Then wash/clay the next panel, etc. Just be carefull not to drop the clay while going back and forth.

Will try this method and I'll also get the lubricant just in case I feel that it isn't going right (clay degrading) Thanks.

Not sure what you mean by white spots?

You would not want to work 1-2 minutes on one tiny spot... Not sure you would get more than a minute over a 1 foot square area.

Sorry I mean when you're working the compound you'll see hazing (product turns white). Yep will spend less time as advised, just want to try and get it perfect instead of working it too long or too little

The Meguiars Supreme Shine towels would be perfect for product removal if that is what you meant.

Sweet. Money to be put into the lubricant!

Microfiber applicator pads arent my favorite to work with, esp with something like UC that needs worked in. I like just the foam, like the one that comes with your wax.

Hrm, I might use the foam that come's with the NXT Gen wax for UC.

Not entirely sure what you mean here... really no need for SwirlX in your current detail.

Removing swirls by hand isnt exactly easy, and esp if new.

Will take that step out!

ColorX is simply a cleaner/wax, meaning that it covers both steps at once. You may get better results from multiple steps, but obviously take more time. So you will often see ColorX incorporated into a 'quick detail'.

However, you may also find some use for it right away.

As mentioned above, removing swirls by hand on an entire car can be hard and tiring, so often it is best to only plan for a panel or two a day.

You may find that you want to Wash, Clay, ColorX everything to get it all shined up. And then as you have time, you would want to wash if needed, UC, UP, Wax, Wax a panel at a time.

And then, once you are around the whole car, you can think about your milder/quicker details again in the future.



1 coat of polish, removing right away.

2 coats of wax, letting dry first before removing.

Yes, both would be thin, just rubbed in a little.



Not on tint, though tint should be on the inside...



I just have a few Water Magnet types for drying, a bunch of Supreme Shines for product removal, and then a bunch of the Viking/Vroom (sold in packs of 5 at general stores) not sure what brand you would have there, for the dirty jobs and interior, etc. And then some terry for real dirty jobs.

Thanks for the tips on here. Very useful and I'll probably take it easy. I might spend about 5-6 hours on detailing if I plan to do a full detail. Would you think it is enough? I'm not aiming for super duper show car, I just want to shiny swirl free look =p

If the task seems to be too tiring I'll do it in two-three days

[Murr1525]

Re: Just another fan - Journey of a new detailer

Well, I will just walk through everying, even if it repeats some stuff that others posted.

[*]After I wash I usually rinse the car with flowing water (without a hose as it leaves less water spots if water flows more fluidly). I then wipe it down with the microfibre cloth. Should I use another clean microfibre mitt while I rinse the car or is it okay to just use water?

You would want to just wash the soap off, and then dry. No need for more wiping.

[*]As I don't have the claying lubricant, I use a spray bottle to spray water while I am claying, can I use water instead of claying lubricant? I don't mind working harder.

You would want to use your regular car wash soap if nothing else. But remember that soap sometimes cause the clay to degrade if stored for a while. But you can also cut the clay into smaller pieces to use.

You could use soapy water from a spray bottle, or get a panel sudsy while washing, and then clay right away. Then wash/clay the next panel, etc. Just be carefull not to drop the clay while going back and forth.

[*]UC - How long should I be rubbing on one spot, until I do not see any white spots? I've seen the UC video and applied by hand, it was about 1-2minutes on one spot and generally wipe off while it is still wet as leaving it on too long will have the compound turn dusty/solidify and will scratch the paint.

Not sure what you mean by white spots?

You would not want to work 1-2 minutes on one tiny spot... Not sure you would get more than a minute over a 1 foot square area.

[*]UP - Is it necessary to use a polishing cloth or can I use the microfibre cloth to wipe off? I've got lots of Meguair's microfibre cloth and wouldn't want to waste them.

The Meguiars Supreme Shine towels would be perfect for product removal if that is what you meant.

[*]Applicator pads - Are the ones I've bought fine to use for all products?[/LIST]

Microfiber applicator pads arent my favorite to work with, esp with something like UC that needs worked in. I like just the foam, like the one that comes with your wax.

Just a bit more info, my car has not been swirl free for who knows how long, I believe that is why Mike has suggested using UC over SwirlX. I will probably use SwirlX after UC as swirl marks and scratches will not be a big issue.

Not entirely sure what you mean here... really no need for SwirlX in your current detail.

Removing swirls by hand isnt exactly easy, and esp if new.

As for ColorX vs UP, my car is around 7 years old and I believe the colour has not faded (from some reviews I've heard only use ColorX if colour seems dull on the car), so go for UP?

ColorX is simply a cleaner/wax, meaning that it covers both steps at once. You may get better results from multiple steps, but obviously take more time. So you will often see ColorX incorporated into a 'quick detail'.

However, you may also find some use for it right away.

As mentioned above, removing swirls by hand on an entire car can be hard and tiring, so often it is best to only plan for a panel or two a day.

You may find that you want to Wash, Clay, ColorX everything to get it all shined up. And then as you have time, you would want to wash if needed, UC, UP, Wax, Wax a panel at a time.

And then, once you are around the whole car, you can think about your milder/quicker details again in the future.

As for polishing, I will be using the applicator pads that I bought, is polishing the same as putting wax on? As in method wise, don't put too much as you want a thin coat.

1 coat of polish, removing right away.

2 coats of wax, letting dry first before removing.

Yes, both would be thin, just rubbed in a little.

Claying and UC-ing the windows. I've read that it is fine on windows but was wondering if it is okay to use on tinted windows or will it damage the tint?

Not on tint, though tint should be on the inside...

Just that there's so many different towels its hard to justify the spending ><

I just have a few Water Magnet types for drying, a bunch of Supreme Shines for product removal, and then a bunch of the Viking/Vroom (sold in packs of 5 at general stores) not sure what brand you would have there, for the dirty jobs and interior, etc. And then some terry for real dirty jobs.