Just another fan - Journey of a new detailer

[yuriko]

Hi guys,

First of all I would like to thank every single person for their comments and feedback on questions posted by forumers. It has been an abundent learning experience for me. In my time having trouble getting registered to this forum I've watched and read a ton of reviews in regards to the products that I have just bought. At times forgetting what was said and gone back to review again.

I have not done a full detail yet (tried claying my hood once and wax). This is all new and fascinating to me. However from what I've read, I've come up with a plan and would like your assistance. Don't hold back on the comments as what needs to be said has to be said! (Only way for me to learn and improve!)

Alright, so here's the plan, its simple and was advised by Mike after I emailed him (Mike its Joseph btw).

I will first list the products that I've bought. Note that some are not Meguairs.

• Ultimate Compound
• Ultimate Polish
• NXT Gen Tech Wax
• SwirlX
• ColorX
• Stoner Invisible Glass Reach & Clean
• Mothers Ultra-Soft Microfiber Applicator Pad
• Red Wax/Sealant Applicator Pad
• Meguiars Supreme Shine Microfiber
• Meguiars Quik Interior Detailer

Steps recommended to take (All done by hand no buffers):

1. Wash
2. Clay
3. UC
4. UP
5. NXT Gen Tech Wax

Questions in regards to steps taken:

1. After I wash I usually rinse the car with flowing water (without a hose as it leaves less water spots if water flows more fluidly). I then wipe it down with the microfibre cloth. Should I use another clean microfibre mitt while I rinse the car or is it okay to just use water?
2. As I don't have the claying lubricant, I use a spray bottle to spray water while I am claying, can I use water instead of claying lubricant? I don't mind working harder.
3. UC - How long should I be rubbing on one spot, until I do not see any white spots? I've seen the UC video and applied by hand, it was about 1-2minutes on one spot and generally wipe off while it is still wet as leaving it on too long will have the compound turn dusty/solidify and will scratch the paint.
4. UP - Is it necessary to use a polishing cloth or can I use the microfibre cloth to wipe off? I've got lots of Meguair's microfibre cloth and wouldn't want to waste them.
5. Applicator pads - Are the ones I've bought fine to use for all products?

Just a bit more info, my car has not been swirl free for who knows how long, I believe that is why Mike has suggested using UC over SwirlX. I will probably use SwirlX after UC as swirl marks and scratches will not be a big issue.

As for ColorX vs UP, my car is around 7 years old and I believe the colour has not faded (from some reviews I've heard only use ColorX if colour seems dull on the car), so go for UP? As for polishing, I will be using the applicator pads that I bought, is polishing the same as putting wax on? As in method wise, don't put too much as you want a thin coat.

Thanks for reading and I've tried to label everything as this is a long post.

Cheers,
Joe

[yuriko]

Re: Just another fan - Journey of a new detailer

Can't edit now but would also like to know :

Claying and UC-ing the windows. I've read that it is fine on windows but was wondering if it is okay to use on tinted windows or will it damage the tint?

Thank you.

[walletless]

Re: Just another fan - Journey of a new detailer

water for claying = no. Pick up quick detailer from local auto store.. if you are really trying to penny pinch, some people seem to suggest using dish washing liquid while claying.. never tried it though, so not sure of dilution ratio.

Where did you buy clay from? Most OTC clay bars (Megs, Mothers, etc) come with a lubricant

[Scott's 62]

Re: Just another fan - Journey of a new detailer

You can use a bucket that has your car wash soap in it as clay lube as well, ive done this a time or two clay while I wash.

[yuriko]

Re: Just another fan - Journey of a new detailer

Thanks for the comments.

I have to import these into NZ, unfortunately I already placed the order for my products and forgot to order the lubricant. Prices over here in NZ are very expensive (almost 3x from what I order from AGO). I will go to the auto store and have a look. Will try car wash soup if anyone can vouch it is safe?

[walletless]

Re: Just another fan - Journey of a new detailer

car wash soap should be generally safe. Use it at a higher dilution ratio than what you generally use.. you want the surface to be really slick when claying, otherwise you risk marring the paint.
If you plan to wax you car later anyway, you can use a dish washing detergent as well.. it will strip off the existing wax - which you don't need anyway.

[yuriko]

Re: Just another fan - Journey of a new detailer

Hi walletless, cheers for the feedback. I think I'll just go get the lubricant to be safe however will try using car wash as detergent is generally not good for the paint from what I've learnt.

I've asked a couple of questions in my first post, can anyone assist with it? ^_^

/awais Murr's reply! Haha.

[walletless]

Re: Just another fan - Journey of a new detailer

here is my $0.02 on your questions. Keep in mind, I am a n00b too, so others can feel free to correct me if I am wrong :-)

After I wash I usually rinse the car with flowing water (without a hose as it leaves less water spots if water flows more fluidly). I then wipe it down with the microfibre cloth. Should I use another clean microfibre mitt while I rinse the car or is it okay to just use water?

If you re claying immediately after, I would not worry too much about completely drying, since you will be spraying soap/lubricant anyway. Sheeting with water should be good enough IMO - no need to use a MF Mitt (in fact, I would not use it anyway - reduce how much you touch the paint)

As I don't have the claying lubricant, I use a spray bottle to spray water while I am claying, can I use water instead of claying lubricant? I don't mind working harder.

Beaten to death above :-)

UC - How long should I be rubbing on one spot, until I do not see any white spots? I've seen the UC video and applied by hand, it was about 1-2minutes on one spot and generally wipe off while it is still wet as leaving it on too long will have the compound turn dusty/solidify and will scratch the paint.

My general rule is that if the pad is close to drying up, I apply more UC. You don't want UC to completely dry - you should be able to easily wipe it off once you are done correcting

UP - Is it necessary to use a polishing cloth or can I use the microfibre cloth to wipe off? I've got lots of Meguair's microfibre cloth and wouldn't want to waste them.

I did not know separate polishing cloths exist.. I use a semi-plush MF towel for wipe off, or use Meguiar's supreme shine if you have one. The key is to not use something too rough as you don't want to introduce new scratches immediately after compounding/polishing. Also don't use too much pressure, and fold the towel into half twice, so you can don't risk fingerprinting.

Applicator pads - Are the ones I've bought fine to use for all products?

No experience using applicator pads on entire car.. more of a machine person.. someone else might have better answer on this one

[walletless]

Re: Just another fan - Journey of a new detailer

/awais Murr's reply! Haha.

Yup, murr gives great advice.. I hope he replies here soon as well.

[Murr1525]

Re: Just another fan - Journey of a new detailer

Who what now?

[yuriko]

Re: Just another fan - Journey of a new detailer

Thanks walletless, I will take your points and put it into good use.

As for microfibre towels from Meguairs, it should not be creating more swirls/scracthes and should be safe to wipe off all products? Just that there's so many different towels its hard to justify the spending ><

"My general rule is that if the pad is close to drying up, I apply more UC. You don't want UC to completely dry - you should be able to easily wipe it off once you are done correcting"

Alright so like how the UC video guide does it, apply once, wipe until feel dryness, apply more UC then wipe off.

Who what now?

Haha yes an input from you would be good!

[Murr1525]

Re: Just another fan - Journey of a new detailer

Well, I will just walk through everying, even if it repeats some stuff that others posted.

[*]After I wash I usually rinse the car with flowing water (without a hose as it leaves less water spots if water flows more fluidly). I then wipe it down with the microfibre cloth. Should I use another clean microfibre mitt while I rinse the car or is it okay to just use water?

You would want to just wash the soap off, and then dry. No need for more wiping.

[*]As I don't have the claying lubricant, I use a spray bottle to spray water while I am claying, can I use water instead of claying lubricant? I don't mind working harder.

You would want to use your regular car wash soap if nothing else. But remember that soap sometimes cause the clay to degrade if stored for a while. But you can also cut the clay into smaller pieces to use.

You could use soapy water from a spray bottle, or get a panel sudsy while washing, and then clay right away. Then wash/clay the next panel, etc. Just be carefull not to drop the clay while going back and forth.

[*]UC - How long should I be rubbing on one spot, until I do not see any white spots? I've seen the UC video and applied by hand, it was about 1-2minutes on one spot and generally wipe off while it is still wet as leaving it on too long will have the compound turn dusty/solidify and will scratch the paint.

Not sure what you mean by white spots?

You would not want to work 1-2 minutes on one tiny spot... Not sure you would get more than a minute over a 1 foot square area.

[*]UP - Is it necessary to use a polishing cloth or can I use the microfibre cloth to wipe off? I've got lots of Meguair's microfibre cloth and wouldn't want to waste them.

The Meguiars Supreme Shine towels would be perfect for product removal if that is what you meant.

[*]Applicator pads - Are the ones I've bought fine to use for all products?[/LIST]

Microfiber applicator pads arent my favorite to work with, esp with something like UC that needs worked in. I like just the foam, like the one that comes with your wax.

Just a bit more info, my car has not been swirl free for who knows how long, I believe that is why Mike has suggested using UC over SwirlX. I will probably use SwirlX after UC as swirl marks and scratches will not be a big issue.

Not entirely sure what you mean here... really no need for SwirlX in your current detail.

Removing swirls by hand isnt exactly easy, and esp if new.

As for ColorX vs UP, my car is around 7 years old and I believe the colour has not faded (from some reviews I've heard only use ColorX if colour seems dull on the car), so go for UP?

ColorX is simply a cleaner/wax, meaning that it covers both steps at once. You may get better results from multiple steps, but obviously take more time. So you will often see ColorX incorporated into a 'quick detail'.

However, you may also find some use for it right away.

As mentioned above, removing swirls by hand on an entire car can be hard and tiring, so often it is best to only plan for a panel or two a day.

You may find that you want to Wash, Clay, ColorX everything to get it all shined up. And then as you have time, you would want to wash if needed, UC, UP, Wax, Wax a panel at a time.

And then, once you are around the whole car, you can think about your milder/quicker details again in the future.

As for polishing, I will be using the applicator pads that I bought, is polishing the same as putting wax on? As in method wise, don't put too much as you want a thin coat.

1 coat of polish, removing right away.

2 coats of wax, letting dry first before removing.

Yes, both would be thin, just rubbed in a little.

Claying and UC-ing the windows. I've read that it is fine on windows but was wondering if it is okay to use on tinted windows or will it damage the tint?

Not on tint, though tint should be on the inside...

Just that there's so many different towels its hard to justify the spending ><

I just have a few Water Magnet types for drying, a bunch of Supreme Shines for product removal, and then a bunch of the Viking/Vroom (sold in packs of 5 at general stores) not sure what brand you would have there, for the dirty jobs and interior, etc. And then some terry for real dirty jobs.

[yuriko]

Re: Just another fan - Journey of a new detailer

You would want to just wash the soap off, and then dry. No need for more wiping.

This'll save me energy for sure!

You would want to use your regular car wash soap if nothing else. But remember that soap sometimes cause the clay to degrade if stored for a while. But you can also cut the clay into smaller pieces to use.


You could use soapy water from a spray bottle, or get a panel sudsy while washing, and then clay right away. Then wash/clay the next panel, etc. Just be carefull not to drop the clay while going back and forth.

Will try this method and I'll also get the lubricant just in case I feel that it isn't going right (clay degrading) Thanks.

Not sure what you mean by white spots?

You would not want to work 1-2 minutes on one tiny spot... Not sure you would get more than a minute over a 1 foot square area.

Sorry I mean when you're working the compound you'll see hazing (product turns white). Yep will spend less time as advised, just want to try and get it perfect instead of working it too long or too little

The Meguiars Supreme Shine towels would be perfect for product removal if that is what you meant.

Sweet. Money to be put into the lubricant!

Microfiber applicator pads arent my favorite to work with, esp with something like UC that needs worked in. I like just the foam, like the one that comes with your wax.

Hrm, I might use the foam that come's with the NXT Gen wax for UC.

Not entirely sure what you mean here... really no need for SwirlX in your current detail.

Removing swirls by hand isnt exactly easy, and esp if new.

Will take that step out!

ColorX is simply a cleaner/wax, meaning that it covers both steps at once. You may get better results from multiple steps, but obviously take more time. So you will often see ColorX incorporated into a 'quick detail'.

However, you may also find some use for it right away.

As mentioned above, removing swirls by hand on an entire car can be hard and tiring, so often it is best to only plan for a panel or two a day.

You may find that you want to Wash, Clay, ColorX everything to get it all shined up. And then as you have time, you would want to wash if needed, UC, UP, Wax, Wax a panel at a time.

And then, once you are around the whole car, you can think about your milder/quicker details again in the future.



1 coat of polish, removing right away.

2 coats of wax, letting dry first before removing.

Yes, both would be thin, just rubbed in a little.



Not on tint, though tint should be on the inside...



I just have a few Water Magnet types for drying, a bunch of Supreme Shines for product removal, and then a bunch of the Viking/Vroom (sold in packs of 5 at general stores) not sure what brand you would have there, for the dirty jobs and interior, etc. And then some terry for real dirty jobs.

Thanks for the tips on here. Very useful and I'll probably take it easy. I might spend about 5-6 hours on detailing if I plan to do a full detail. Would you think it is enough? I'm not aiming for super duper show car, I just want to shiny swirl free look =p

If the task seems to be too tiring I'll do it in two-three days

[Murr1525]

Re: Just another fan - Journey of a new detailer

Will try this method and I'll also get the lubricant just in case I feel that it isn't going right (clay degrading) Thanks.

The clay will rarely degrade while you are actually using it. But say you clay now, and store the clay for 6 months, and then go to use it again, some people have it falling apart a bit.

Sorry I mean when you're working the compound you'll see hazing (product turns white). Yep will spend less time as advised, just want to try and get it perfect instead of working it too long or too little

The main thing will be to try and work a proper sized area, like maybe a foot square, and using the palm/area under fingers on the pad, not finger tips.

People who focus on a tiny spot with a finger tip can get into trouble sometimes.

Also, be sure to just do a test spot/panel, and then check your work. If you dont see the right progress, or something looks off, you can come back and ask. Dont do the whole car before checking your work.

Hrm, I might use the foam that come's with the NXT Gen wax for UC.

Yeah, I'd probably wax with the MF if I had to. Couldnt quite tell which red foam pads you meant, but sound similar to the ones with the wax as well?

Thanks for the tips on here. Very useful and I'll probably take it easy. I might spend about 5-6 hours on detailing if I plan to do a full detail. Would you think it is enough? I'm not aiming for super duper show car, I just want to shiny swirl free look =p

In 5-6 hours by hand... shiny, yes. Swirl free....ehh...

[yuriko]

Re: Just another fan - Journey of a new detailer

The clay will rarely degrade while you are actually using it. But say you clay now, and store the clay for 6 months, and then go to use it again, some people have it falling apart a bit.

Ah thats really good to hear.

The main thing will be to try and work a proper sized area, like maybe a foot square, and using the palm/area under fingers on the pad, not finger tips.

People who focus on a tiny spot with a finger tip can get into trouble sometimes.

Also, be sure to just do a test spot/panel, and then check your work. If you dont see the right progress, or something looks off, you can come back and ask. Dont do the whole car before checking your work.

Will definitely double check on the work before I continue, Would NOT want to scratch the paint further!

Yeah, I'd probably wax with the MF if I had to. Couldnt quite tell which red foam pads you meant, but sound similar to the ones with the wax as well?



In 5-6 hours by hand... shiny, yes. Swirl free....ehh...

These are the foam pads I was talking about.

http://autogeek.commerce-search.net/redirect?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.autogeek.net%2Fred-ccs-applicators.html

Woah 5-6 hours and won't be swirl free will make me super sad!

I was watching the UC video and it seems simple? I don't know unless they're fast forwarding it lol cause it seemed like it was wipe on, wipe off.

Also Murr, you advised me to wash,clay and polish first before going for full detail. Just wanted to ask as I will be driving out etc, would I have to rewash, clay then full detail? (Let's say I do it the next day as there would be polish on the paint.)