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Which of these waxes would you use on top of Collonite 845?

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  • #16
    Re: Which of these waxes would you use on top of Collonite 845?

    Consumer level clays shouldn't cause marring of any sort, unless the person used a clay that has picked up dust/dirt, claying is really recommended before any cleaning/polishing step is done. A novice can have more issues with polishing/cleaning than with claying. With clay, the only risk or expense is if one drops it. But if you're really uncomfortable with claying, then skip it. Accidents can happen, so if you're not too keen or if you feel that the risk of dropping the clay is too much, then i guess its ok to skip it. But you should try it first or at least practice.

    In claying, its really not necessary to apply too much pressure. The weight of your hand is enough to remove the contaminants. Once you master or have confidence in using clay bars, you will like it.. All succeeding paint cleaners/polishes/waxes will seem to just glide on the surface and remove easier and will have a more uniform, smooth, slick and soft feel to your paint. The gloss and shine will look even better and more even.

    You will like the look of 845... Another car i did was our Black metalllic SUV. However, i used FX Synwax paste as base then applied 845 on top. Worked out real well, FX made the flakes pop and added bright, sharp, and reflective shine to it while adding the 845 added wetness and slickness. The metallic flakes weren't muted that much, it just added a kind of thickness to it. 845 is really a good product, works well on top of most waxes and doesn't change the look of the paint that much.

    845 is relatively easy to use, offers great durability, sealant like durability with carnauba wax like looks as added bonus

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    • #17
      Re: Which of these waxes would you use on top of Collonite 845?

      Originally posted by umi000 View Post
      I'd do it differently - use FK1000p as my sealant base (and yes, FK1000p is synthetic - it's kind of like a paste sealant), then top with 845 - this should give you the best durability.
      http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...ver-detail-%29 :-)
      A n00b detailer on shoe-string budget
      http://n00bdetailer.blogspot.com/
      ----

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      • #18
        I think you have the steps messed up because you are confused what each product is used for. Not that your method above is wrong, it's IMO overkill.

        You should not skip claying because of what you heard. If you skip claying you will miss out on a nice, clean, smooth, silky finish. Just don't drop it and then use it on your paint. Try a small section first and see how you like it.

        The part where I think you are over killing the process and wasting product is the UC, SwirlX, then UP. I say overkill because UC is very easy to use and will remove heavy and light swirls and leave a perfect finish. I would just use UC on the whole vehicle.

        SwirlX and UP are almost the same thing. They both have cutting power but UP will have more polishing oils which will hide the defect rather than correct it. I'd say either use SwirlX or UP, not both for the sake of time and wasting product. If you UC the whole vehicle definitely use UP to follow up because UC most likely removed all the defects. In fact, if all the defects were removed with the UC, I would use a pure polish such as Meg's crystal polish for ultimate gloss.

        SwirlX is a one step product. It is more abrasive than UP but not as strong as UC. You could try using SwirlX rather than UC and see how it works on the swirls. But it does have some polishing oils so IMO using UP after swirlX would be overkill. Just follow it up with your favorite sealant. If SwirlX removes all your swirls then there is no need for UC and UP. Just go straight to wax or sealant.
        2010 F150 FX4 and 2001 Ford Escape
        Meguiars All the Way!!!!!!!

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