I received my new G110v2 yesterday along with (2) W2087 Cutting Pads and (4) W2097 Finishing Pads. I had a combination of UC, M205 and ULW already at my disposal and figured this combination would be sufficient for the correction of some pretty beat up paint. I went through the http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...-(and-similar)thread numerous times leading up to yesterday and have been watching videos, etc. to make sure I knew the DA technique.
First up was my DD ('95 Honda Civic). The paint is bad. Clearcoat failure on the roof, many scratches, dings, chips, swirls... not all correctable, but I figured it would be a great start for my first DA experiment. I washed and clayed the car and moved on to paint correction on the hood. I started with the W2087 pad and UC, on about a 20" x 20" area. After 4 section passes with moderate pressure and slow arm swing, the product was thin and I felt like it was starting to dry, so I wiped the area clean with a microfiber. To my dismay, the numerous fine scratches were still apparent, but the clarity and depth of the paint was fantastic. There was a hazy appearance of the paint before correction, and the UC cleaned it up nice.
After 4 more section passes, more of the same. I couldn't seem to get any defect correction with the UC. The scratches were not deep enough to feel with my fingernail. Here are a few pictures, but I didn't capture the defects that still remained. Pictures are after UC and M205.


I then moved on to my Dad's car (2003 Buick Century). Performed the same process as listed above, but the same results! This was disheartening... so I pulled my sister's black 2004 Acura RSX into the garage for the ultimate test. This car had some pretty bad scratches on the hood (some could be felt with your fingernail). I wasn't expecting 100% correction, but any correction would've been nice. With a new pad and new-found energy, I went at a section on the hood. Same dead-end result. Pictures are after UC only.





The area to the left of the tape line was "corrected"

I understand that these scratches in the above photo are fairly deep (could feel a number of them with my fingernail), but I was expecting SOME correction! The fine scratches in the earlier pictures should've been corrected in my opinion.
So, do I need to grab M105? A more aggressive pad? Help!
First up was my DD ('95 Honda Civic). The paint is bad. Clearcoat failure on the roof, many scratches, dings, chips, swirls... not all correctable, but I figured it would be a great start for my first DA experiment. I washed and clayed the car and moved on to paint correction on the hood. I started with the W2087 pad and UC, on about a 20" x 20" area. After 4 section passes with moderate pressure and slow arm swing, the product was thin and I felt like it was starting to dry, so I wiped the area clean with a microfiber. To my dismay, the numerous fine scratches were still apparent, but the clarity and depth of the paint was fantastic. There was a hazy appearance of the paint before correction, and the UC cleaned it up nice.
After 4 more section passes, more of the same. I couldn't seem to get any defect correction with the UC. The scratches were not deep enough to feel with my fingernail. Here are a few pictures, but I didn't capture the defects that still remained. Pictures are after UC and M205.


I then moved on to my Dad's car (2003 Buick Century). Performed the same process as listed above, but the same results! This was disheartening... so I pulled my sister's black 2004 Acura RSX into the garage for the ultimate test. This car had some pretty bad scratches on the hood (some could be felt with your fingernail). I wasn't expecting 100% correction, but any correction would've been nice. With a new pad and new-found energy, I went at a section on the hood. Same dead-end result. Pictures are after UC only.





The area to the left of the tape line was "corrected"

I understand that these scratches in the above photo are fairly deep (could feel a number of them with my fingernail), but I was expecting SOME correction! The fine scratches in the earlier pictures should've been corrected in my opinion.
So, do I need to grab M105? A more aggressive pad? Help!
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