Question about Waxing...

[xToxic]

I have a 1992 Buick Century, in stunning condition inside and outside, original paint job (It's planned to have a new paint job in the future when I get the money) but I went to this classic car show on Friday and I found out I can drive either of my Buicks (89 would be nice cause of age, but I'm taking the 92) and show them. This is just for fun and social kinda thing they do and no judging. It's mostly for classics, but there were four newer cars, but they've been modified and even the guys said if you put a lot into keeping your car nice, you should be able to show it up here.

He basically said all I need is to clean it up, shine and wax it up and bring it in so they can see it. Because after talking to these guys for hours, it seems to them I have a heart and good disease with these cars and since I spend so much time keeping my car in good condition.

I've never used wax or clay bars and since the paint is old and original, I don't want to ruin it (it does have some rust spots but not too big), would it be ok to clean in very well, hand dry it and wax it without claying it? Or... what? Any advice would be nice before Friday cause I'm excited to bring it up there Oh, and this car is a beautiful white color, anything special needed for white cars?

[Marc08EX]

Re: Question about Waxing...

The best results can be achieved when the surface is properly prepped before applying wax. Proper preparation means making the paint as smooth as glass and removing paint imperfections such as scratches, swirl marks, and water spots.

Making your paint as smooth as glass can be achieved with Meguiar's Smooth Surface Clay Kit. Have you ever clayed your car? If you haven't chances are you will need to use this. You will really be amazed at the results you'll achieve. IMO, this is the least you can do before applying the wax.

The next step is to properly restore the clarity and reflection of your paint by removing paint defects such as swirl marks, scratches and water spots. This can be done by a cleaner polish such as Ultimate Compound, SwirlX or ScratchX 2.0. These products remove the said paint defects and they have a varying level of aggressiveness. Once the paint is in the level you want it, you can follow it up with a finer polish (that's rich in polishing oils) such as Ultimate Polish. This will help darken your paint and help it look more reflective and glossier.

I would at least start by reading this: Meguiar's 5-Step Paint Care Cycle

Hope this helps.

[xToxic]

I did read that which helped, but is the whole claying process safe for an older car with it's original paint job? I'm just trying to make sure nothing bad happens to it.

[Marc08EX]

Re: Question about Waxing...

I did read that which helped, but is the whole claying process safe for an older car with it's original paint job? I'm just trying to make sure nothing bad happens to it.

Claying is non-abrasive so it's safe for all paint systems. Please don't be afraid to try this out as you won't regret it.

If you're worried about whether your paint is thin or not then I would proceed with the defect removal with caution. However, it has been discussed here in the forums that defect removal doesn't really take out a lot of paint especially when used by hand or a D/A within reason. Now if you're using a rotary and a wool pad with fairly heavy down pressure then that's a different story.

[xToxic]

Should I clay/wax the day before or Friday before the show?

[Marc08EX]

Re: Question about Waxing...

You can clay wax it anytime you want. If you find time to clay and wax it like a week before the show then I would just quick detail the car everyday to keep it looking its best and so that dust doesn't build up on the surface. If you have time to clay and wax it a day before the show then it'll be best to do that then quick detail it when you get to the show.

[SVT Lightning]

Re: Question about Waxing...

You say you've never used wax or a clay bar. Has the car been a garage queen all it's life? If not, definitely clay the car. Has the paint ever been polished or waxed?

[TOGWT]

Re: Question about Waxing...

[Claying is non-abrasive so it's safe for all paint systems.]

If clay is non-abrasive how does it work?

[Marc08EX]

Re: Question about Waxing...

[Claying is non-abrasive so it's safe for all paint systems.]

If clay is non-abrasive how does it work?

The clay itself is a sticky substance and the dirt particles stick to it as it glides through the paint.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Question about Waxing...

Marc, technically clay is indeed abrasive and it's available in varying degrees of abrasiveness. For example, our C2100 Professional Aggressive Red Clay is so aggressive that it will most likely haze the paint and some sort of machine polishing is going to be needed to correct the haze. C2000 Professional Mild Blue Clay falls between this and our consumer clay.

It is the abrasiveness of the clay that essentially shaves down the bonded contaminants, and the slight stickiness that basically holds onto those minute little particles. It's also because of the stickiness that should you drop a clay bar on the ground it's best to just throw it away; it's going to pick up much larger bits of stuff that you are just not going to remove effectively, and you then end up grinding them into the paint.

[greg0303]

Re: Question about Waxing...

[Claying is non-abrasive so it's safe for all paint systems.]

If clay is non-abrasive how does it work?

Detailing clay glides along the surface of your paint and grabs anything that protrudes from the surface. The particle sticks to the clay and is therefore removed from your vehicle. The surface being clayed should always be wet with clay lubricant to prevent loose debris from scratching the vehicle.
Used properly, detailing clay is completely safe and non-abrasive. It's a much better option than polishing to remove these contaminants because clay doesn’t remove any paint.

When using any clay avoid applying pressure. Applying pressure to anything you’re rubbing on the paint (clay included) will make it abrasive. You want to avoid rubbing the clay against the paint. It should glide across the lubricant. Use only enough pressure to maintain contact between the clay bar and the paint surface. The clay will do the rest.

As always, keep the surface well-lubricated

[Marc08EX]

Re: Question about Waxing...

Marc, technically clay is indeed abrasive and it's available in varying degrees of abrasiveness. For example, our C2100 Professional Aggressive Red Clay is so aggressive that it will most likely haze the paint and some sort of machine polishing is going to be needed to correct the haze. C2000 Professional Mild Blue Clay falls between this and our consumer clay.

It is the abrasiveness of the clay that essentially shaves down the bonded contaminants, and the slight stickiness that basically holds onto those minute little particles. It's also because of the stickiness that should you drop a clay bar on the ground it's best to just throw it away; it's going to pick up much larger bits of stuff that you are just not going to remove effectively, and you then end up grinding them into the paint.

Thanks for the clarification Mike!!! I didn't know that clay is considered abrasive.

But the abrasive factor you're talking about with regards to clay is different to the abrasives found in cleaner-polishes right (SMAT/DAT)? What I mean is that clay doesn't remove clear coat or paint the same way cleaner polishes do.