Ultimate Compound: Experiences and Recommendations

[GhOsT1321]

Hello, I just picked up a bottle of UC at a local store. Although it was 9:30 and completely black outside, I was eager to learn if the UC would do anything for my (guessing) heavily oxidized paint. I worked the product in a small 4 inch circular area for about ten minutes, while holding a mini flashlight in my teeth. The result was that the dark gray/brownish haze was mostly gone. Only a slight milky haze was left, but that small area looked great. I applied the product using a cheap, microfiber cloth. The MF cloth absorbs the UC like nothing. Next time, I may try a slightly damp cloth. I may also get a terry cloth to see if that makes any significant difference.

Perhaps I didn't work the product long enough, but my arm got a bit tired after a total of only about 20 minutes.
Is it normal for UC to leave a slight haze on heavily oxidized paint?
For example, you could not see my paint under the oxidization from a distance, you have to be within about 5 feet to see that there is paint on the hood.

I have never polished a car before in my life, so any recommendations would be well appreciated.
Would a cheap ($30 or cheaper) buffer/polisher aide me in polishing and waxing a car?

[Murr1525]

Re: Ultimate Compound: Experiences and Recommendations

Some pics would really help most. Is there a chance of any?

What kind of car, etc is it?

You probably dont want terry cloth. Some of the smooth foam applicators are usually best.

Yeah, UC can leave a little haze sometimes.

[greg0303]

Re: Ultimate Compound: Experiences and Recommendations

I worked the product in a small 4 inch circular area for about ten minutes, while holding a mini flashlight in my teeth. The result was that the dark gray/brownish haze was mostly gone. Only a slight milky haze was left, but that small area looked great.

You concentrated on quite small area. Usually working on 16"x16" by hand is okay (about size of your microfiber towel). I don't know how much UC you applied to this area but you could have been pretty aggressive (a lot of product on small area) and that could cause more haze than normally.

I applied the product using a cheap, microfiber cloth. The MF cloth absorbs the UC like nothing. Next time, I may try a slightly damp cloth. I may also get a terry cloth to see if that makes any significant difference.

Apply product with soft foam applicator pad and remove with microfiber towel (Supreme Shine).

http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+X3070

http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product_detail.do?q=4565

Perhaps I didn't work the product long enough, but my arm got a bit tired after a total of only about 20 minutes.

Usually you work it into paint surface for about 1-2 minutes, never work on dry area, you should always have at least thin film of product. Wipe off before it dries. Use 50% overlapping passes, go side to side and up & down.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CIklU-DjwYs

Is it normal for UC to leave a slight haze on heavily oxidized paint?

Yes, UC can cause that. It's an aggressive paint cleaner. Therefore Meguiar's always recommends to do test spots and use least aggressive approach. On paints which are on more delicate side cleaner polish, like SwirlX or Ultimate Polish, may be all that it's needed to complete the job.

For example, you could not see my paint under the oxidization from a distance, you have to be within about 5 feet to see that there is paint on the hood.

If a paint is neglected/ oxidized I would recommend to clay it, after washing, to remove above surface bonded contaminants.

I have never polished a car before in my life, so any recommendations would be well appreciated.
Would a cheap ($30 or cheaper) buffer/polisher aide me in polishing and waxing a car?

Those orbital buffers are okay for waxing and polishing but not strong enough for defect removal. You really needed a true dual action polisher with adjustable speed and power around 500W, like Meguiar's G110v2, Griot's Garage 6" D/A or Porter Cable 7424XP.

[GhOsT1321]

Re: Ultimate Compound: Experiences and Recommendations

It is a 2000 Ford Escort ZX2 with midnight blue paint. As far as I can tell, it's the paint from the factory.
I doubt there will be any picture, our camera was stolen a few days ago. If I am able to borrow a camera, I will surely post some pictures.

[GhOsT1321]

Re: Ultimate Compound: Experiences and Recommendations

@greg0303
I used a fair amount of pressure and it took at least 5 minutes before I began we wear through the thick layer of oxidization. I did use a lot of product, but as stated, the MF absorbed most. My cloth was about unmovable after initial application because he cloth was barely damy with UC so it sort of "stuck" tot he paint. A second application caused the MF to glide more easily.

I will be sure to get a foam applicator and a microfiber towel soon, both meguiars brand.

Is claying necessary if I am polishing? I don't see how clay could remove what an abrasive with a bit of force behind it cannot.

Would a cheap random orbital be fine for removing oxidation?
The problem that I have with buying a quality buffer is that they all cost a fair fraction of that the car cost.

[Nappers]

Re: Ultimate Compound: Experiences and Recommendations

What color is the pad when you used it? Meaning is it single stage or Base Coat, Clear Coat.....

I find that M80 aggressive with a pad if you have no machine, Terry cloth may work better and is more aggressive works better.

Heavy Oxidization is a pain, even with a machine. I would save your pennies and dimes and get a PC of some type. I have a G100 and love it. I also like the new PC and the Griots Garage model. Of course, being this is Meguiar's, their model.

If it's clear coated, you may have clear coat failure and that requires a new paint job.

Try to get some pix.

[Murr1525]

Re: Ultimate Compound: Experiences and Recommendations

Yeah, I would really like to see a pic. Also, as mentioned above, what color were you getting on the applicator?

If it is that bad, you may find that you just want to apply a pure polish to get some moisture in the paint first. Then back to the UC.

[GhOsT1321]

Re: Ultimate Compound: Experiences and Recommendations

The color of the pad was mostly light gray/whitish. Some areas had a little dark brown. The car is clear coated.
I am getting no colors resembling my paint color on the microfiber. Would this indicate that the clear coat is still intact? If I were to rub to hard/too much, wouldn't I wear away the clear coat and end up rubbing off paint, resulting in a very dull area?
It is very possible that the clear coat is failing. I say this because I see many (70% or more) of Ford Escorts with failing cleat coat. I assume that this is from a lousy clear coat application at the manufacturing plant, but I am not very knowledgeable in this area.

I may be able to borrow a camera for a limited time. What would you guys like pictures of in particular? The entire surface of the car, with a few dedicated shots of anywhere where the paint doesn't look as if it;s in good condition?

Last question for now, Would you consider Ultimate Polish a pure polish?

[Murr1525]

Re: Ultimate Compound: Experiences and Recommendations

Well, the thing is that clear coats dont usually oxidize, at least not as common, or as badly as the SS type paints. It is usually either failing, or just badly swirled up. Not that it cant, but just rarer. So that is kind of why we want to see whati s going on, try to make sure you are getting the best advice.

Can kind of look at a pic or two of the car, then more close up, a panel or so, then trying right for the surface.

Well, Ult. Polish has a lot of oils, but not really pure. Deep Crystal Polish would be a cheap pure polish.

[BillE]

Re: Ultimate Compound: Experiences and Recommendations

Just to add about 'pure polish'... M-7 is a 'pure polish' as is its' brother M-5. If you live in a HIGH humidity area, M-5 would be my best suggestion.

Don't give up!

Bill